Massey Harris 50 spindles

GARDEN4FUN · Jan 18, 2011

I am in need of left and right spindles for my 1956 massey harris 50 one spindle has stripped threads and the other looks as if it has been welded in the years past around the top where it goes through the tie rod end or linkage, haven't looked at it in a while.
If anyone knows of a parts supplier or has any info. on what crosses over to my 50 it would be greatly appreciated.
I believe that it was an inbetween tractor 'so to speak' my tearm may not be quite right... as the F40 has parts that will interchage with the front half of the tractor and the TO 30 or maybe 35 will interchage with some of the rear half. Also it is the adjustable wide front end. also seems that there were 2 different sizes availible for my tractor. All the research that I did about 3 years or so ago has been lost..

... So if you have a link to a crossover section or any info would be appreciated.
Thanks - Johnny

DJ54 · Jan 18, 2011

Here is a link to AGCOpartsbook. Enter as a guest at bottom right.

AGCO Parts Books

Type in your model number, then select the manufacturer...

On the next page, scroll down to find front ends... Click on it, and an exploded view of it wil open. To the right is the part number, and description.

There are several front ends, you'll just have to decide which one is yours. Hi-Clearance, Lo-Clearance, or before a certain serial number break given.

The part number for the Lo-Clearance left spindle is 182559M92. I did a Google search, and got a bunch of hits... They look to run from $79.00 to $85.00, depending on the aftermarket dealers I looked at.

Find which one is yours, copy and paste the part number to Google, and go shopping...!!

Good luck..!!

GARDEN4FUN · Jan 19, 2011

Thanks for your post I really appreciate it.... It seems hard to find parts for a MH 50 unless you know the specific place to look. Lots of parts for the MF -Johnny

Soundguy · Jan 19, 2011

the stripped threads one can be handles in 3 different ways.. and I've done all 3 with 100% perfect results.

1, use a 2-part squeezum nut... BTDT.. least favorite fix.. but I admit to have a tractor that has 2 squeezum nuts on it and nearry had a problem with em...

2, grind the threads down to the major diameter of the next standard size nut you can get in there, then cut new threads with a die... this works pretty much onec. pas tthat the diameter gets too small and you have a good chance to break it off at the thread baswhere it joins the spindle... see option 3 if it has aready been undersized once.

3, weld up the stripped threads then grind down to the major diameter of the standard thread and cut it.. I wouldn't use a particularly hard rod and I'd stay with something low-penetration like a 6010/6013 or mig turned down with standard wire.. don't be tempted to braze it. it WILL work.. but it's almost as much work and not as good a results as the weld n grind.

On the one that has had the stering arm welded tot he spindle... might be able to fix that one as well. I'm not a MH guy.. but there are a few different steering arm to spindle connection methods... pinch bolt, a machined flat with pin trapping/interference, as well as keyway. determine if the damage that cause the prev owner to weld it was damage tot he spindle or damage to the steering arm. new key ways can be welded and broacked.. and rounded corners and worn diameters can be welded and turned.. both OD ont he spindel and ID of the arm.. unless it is a total loss and broken in multiple places and just buggere dthe heck up.. I'd say the average loose-slip, weld to fix steering arm to spindle can be corrected byt he do-it yerselfer in a good morning of shop work with a welder die grinder, some files and other common hand tools.

none of this is to disuade you from repalcing with new or good salvage parts if you can find them. I merely mention it as many of us old iron collectors get a kick out of keeping oem parts with our tractor if we can, if they can be fixed safely and correctly. plus.. sometimes it's fun to manually cut apart, weld, machine and rebuild a tie rod end and fabricate a draglink from scratch just to say you can..

good luck

soundguy

GARDEN4FUN · Jan 20, 2011

Thanks for the advice S.G. I had thought about cutting new threads when I first discovered the problem, I'll have to wait until I know I wont be needing the tractor for a while so I can use plan 'b' . If I decide to try the fabrication method.
-Johnny

Soundguy · Jan 20, 2011

if by plan b you men weld, grind and tap threads.. that can all be done in about an hour if you move kinda fast..

soundguy

GARDEN4FUN · Jan 21, 2011

Well actually I placed plan C into effect today. I found a place in Farmington Missouri, called Rippees. He had spindles in stock, 'used' but virtually no wear, said except for the grease you wouldn't have known the difference. also ordered the left steer arm for an additional $15.00 .
This guy is pretty impressive, 'but tractor parts isn't what I do for a living either'. He said that the 40 50 65 Ferguson parts match for my tractor during that time period. Also some good news the valve body system that came with the tractor is worth about $500.00 . He said that what I have is pretty sought after for my tractor and fergusons also. That explains why two of my friends came up to me after I bought the tractor and said, ' The first thing you need to do is take off that valve and throw it away.' 'And then tell us where you threw it."
I'm also interested in putting a loader on the front. There was a manure trip type bucket that was on it, but was removed before the auction. But I was not interested in it. He said that a 255 model would fit on it, and should be able to pick one up anywhere for 750 to 1000, so that may be do-able.
If anyone is interested or just wants another source of information here's the number

Rippees 1-573-431-5939

Thanks -Johnny