Max 26xl just stopped while I was driving...

[madmacks]

I have a 2016 Max26XL TLB that recently had front axle and transmission work done under warranty (and required that it be split). I picked it up from the shop a few days ago and then drove it to my place, which took about 30 minutes of tractor driving time. I reconnected the loader and backhoe without any issues. A few days later I started it up and did about 1 hour worth of work and then it just died. I'd just finished some backhoe work and was driving it back to the shop and it simply powered down. I tried to restart it by turning the key back on (in neutral, PTO off, clutch in, etc). The wait indicator light came on as usual (to wait for the glow plugs) and after the usual wait the glow plug light went off and I turned the key to start it, but nothing, no clicks, didn't turn over, didn't make a sound. So, I assumed it was the seat safety switch, since I'd just rotated the seat from backhoe position to drive position. I checked the wiring and it did seam to have a break, so I stripped the covering back and found what I assumed was the break that was preventing the start up. I did a field patch by wiring the two leads together and then tried to restart it. Nothing...same no sound, no clicks no turnover. Lights come on, dash lights up like normal, and the battery shows 12.7 volts. I've check all the fuses. I've checked the wiring as best as I can in the field. I can find no lose connections, frayed wires, or obviously bad safety switches.

Any suggestions?

I am thinking I can bypass all the "safety features" by making sure it's in neutral (I have a manual tranny), putting the brake on, turning the key to run position, and then jumping the starter solenoid by shorting across the battery hot cable and the smaller key switch cable (is that correct?). That should bypass all the safety circuits and if they are the fault the tractor should turn over and start. Does that make sense?

If it does start that would seem to indicate that there's a fault in the safety switch circuits, but I don't see how that could have killed it while it was running. Unless it's the PTO safety switch, which I think does kill the engine if the driver (me) leaves the seat while the PTO is engaged. That would make sense if the seat safety switch wiring broke and the PTO was bumped and engaged, or the PTO safety switch also failed. Otherwise, I don't see how it could have just stopped while I was driving it.

Anyway, can anyone confirm that I would cross the large red lead and the smaller plug in wire to try and start it? And if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it. Unfortunately I live way off grid up the side of a mountian (4x4 required most of the time) so getting a service truck here is problematic. And the trailer I have is not rated for the tractor with the loader and backhoe mounted due to weight issues, and if it's not running I can't really take them off. Ugh...

 

[fried1765]

I have a 2016 Max26XL TLB that recently had front axle and transmission work done under warranty (and required that it be split). I picked it up from the shop a few days ago and then drove it to my place, which took about 30 minutes of tractor driving time. I reconnected the loader and backhoe without any issues. A few days later I started it up and did about 1 hour worth of work and then it just died. I'd just finished some backhoe work and was driving it back to the shop and it simply powered down. I tried to restart it by turning the key back on (in neutral, PTO off, clutch in, etc). The wait indicator light came on as usual (to wait for the glow plugs) and after the usual wait the glow plug light went off and I turned the key to start it, but nothing, no clicks, didn't turn over, didn't make a sound. So, I assumed it was the seat safety switch, since I'd just rotated the seat from backhoe position to drive position. I checked the wiring and it did seam to have a break, so I stripped the covering back and found what I assumed was the break that was preventing the start up. I did a field patch by wiring the two leads together and then tried to restart it. Nothing...same no sound, no clicks no turnover. Lights come on, dash lights up like normal, and the battery shows 12.7 volts. I've check all the fuses. I've checked the wiring as best as I can in the field. I can find no lose connections, frayed wires, or obviously bad safety switches.

Any suggestions?

I am thinking I can bypass all the "safety features" by making sure it's in neutral (I have a manual tranny), putting the brake on, turning the key to run position, and then jumping the starter solenoid by shorting across the battery hot cable and the smaller key switch cable (is that correct?). That should bypass all the safety circuits and if they are the fault the tractor should turn over and start. Does that make sense?

If it does start that would seem to indicate that there's a fault in the safety switch circuits, but I don't see how that could have killed it while it was running. Unless it's the PTO safety switch, which I think does kill the engine if the driver (me) leaves the seat while the PTO is engaged. That would make sense if the seat safety switch wiring broke and the PTO was bumped and engaged, or the PTO safety switch also failed. Otherwise, I don't see how it could have just stopped while I was driving it.

Anyway, can anyone confirm that I would cross the large red lead and the smaller plug in wire to try and start it? And if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it. Unfortunately I live way off grid up the side of a mountian (4x4 required most of the time) so getting a service truck here is problematic. And the trailer I have is not rated for the tractor with the loader and backhoe mounted due to weight issues, and if it's not running I can't really take them off. Ugh...

The moral of this story:

Sell your current trailer, and buy one that is capable of safely hauling your tractor, with it's attachments, assuming of course, that your tow vehicle can even pull the weight up your steep grade..

 

[shovelmike]

Jumping it at the relay should work, take all the safety precautions. My guess is that the fault is in the safety system somewhere, possibly a wire got broken or pinched, seriously weakened and broke the rest of the way during use.
It sounds like you live in the kind of place I would enjoy.....except for times like your situation. I hope you get it corrected easily.

 

[CobyRupert]

I think you're on the right track with seeing if voltage is (or isn't) getting to the starter solenoid ("smaller key switch cable"). You can also do this test with a voltmeter while someone turns the key.

However, the "stopped while you were driving" is a twist. Does the "safety system" think the PTO (switch) is on?

 

[madmacks]

Lol. Well that’s a thought... Actually I have a 4 ton dump trailer that I would usually haul the tractor with. But...as the area I live is accessed by such a rough road (rocky and sometimes 4x4 required) and I would occasionally hit rocks with the spring mounts I had a spring over done to add larger tires and gain more clearance by reversing the U bolts. That raised the trailer so high I can no longer get the TLB loaded; so I need to weld up some ramps that I can use. In the mean time I borrow a buddy’s UTV trailer, and that only holds about 1 ton. Hence the current 鍍railer problem? But I’m working on those ramps...

 

[tmcj]

Those safety switches can be really finicky. I have trouble starting my Max 26xl now and then and it's just a matter of catching the switches at the right point. Between the clutch and rocker pedal I've just worked them back and forth several times, sometimes even rocking the tractor forwards and backwards slightly before it would take off. I've also had to adjust the rocker pedal switch before. If the bracket that the button contacts get bent at all it will not read it properly. I've straightened mine and reset the switch and that has worked before when I had issues. Those switches should activate when the button is pushed in. When I had trouble not starting one time i just wedged a screwdriver between the button and the stopper plate until the button was fully seated to test each switch. That's how I discovered that the pedal switch was not engaged enough to let it start. After some mino adjustment it fired right up.

I hope yours will be that simple of a fix.

 

[mnscruff]

check the battery negative cable to frame connection, was the issue with mine, it had the same symptoms

 

[s219]

There have been a range of problems on the Max models due to moisture damage to connectors in the wiring harness. Makes me think they cheaped out on the components or have some problem spots where water/moisture can collect and cause corrosion.

 

[LouNY]

The screwdriver shorting will work,
but I would recommend that people get a remote start switch.
They work so much easier and you can be out of the way when using one.
Amazon.com: Performance Tool W8586 Heavy Duty Remote Starter: Automotive

 

[thepumpguysc]

GOOD point Lou.. Those things are a MUST if your working alone..
I knew a guy who wouldnt shut down long enough for me to trace his "start" problem & he wired up 1 of those & kept on workin.. Lol