I received a 2003 McCormick GX50 from my father in law since he sold his place and moved to a city. Nice tractor, but very difficult to find info and parts for it.
We purchased a used log splitter to utilize on our 80 acres of woods but after hooking up to the remote hydraulics on the rear of tractor, nothing happened when the remote levers were moved. I could tell something wasn't correct with the levers since they only moved a little bit and not anywhere near the travel slot allowed. The levers hook to the manifold valve body under the seat via cables. I thought perhaps the cables were froze up because my Father in law never used or tried that system. But the cables were free. That meant that the control valve body manifold under the seat had to come off. It looked like a daunting task.
I pulled the seat and cover plate and there is almost adequate room to work there. I cheated and cut back the cover plate access a little further to give more room careful not to cut any wires or hoses. I marked lines and shot a photo then removed all 7 lines coming to the manifold. (note that the #2 marked 90 degree line had a different thickness bottom washer) Remove the 3 bolts holding the manifold to the axle area and work the valve body out through the access hole. The remote cables will give you enough room to pull it out for access to the cable attachments.
Remove the jam nut , holding nut and thread the retaining clip back. Remove the 4 Allen bolts holding each of the remote cables to the body. Pull back cable tower and remove the pin holding the cable to the shuttle valves. After both cables are detached, take to the workbench.
Remove large flathead screws on top of valve body and remove oring, spring and pressure valve. (I had to use a hand impact to remove these screws). Remove the plastic cap allen screws and remove cap, plate, etc. You can now support the valve body in a vise and tap the shuttle valves out (either direction I believe) It took some pretty good taps with a oak block and hammer to get them to move. They were the problem since they had seized up from non use (plus there was traces of water in system which we purged several times, heating the oil with a turkey fryer to burn off the water, then purge with processed oil (2x for us), then changed to new oil and filter) . Free up the valve, polish any areas on the shuttle valve and reassemble.
I hope this helps someone that may experience a similar problem.
Paul
We purchased a used log splitter to utilize on our 80 acres of woods but after hooking up to the remote hydraulics on the rear of tractor, nothing happened when the remote levers were moved. I could tell something wasn't correct with the levers since they only moved a little bit and not anywhere near the travel slot allowed. The levers hook to the manifold valve body under the seat via cables. I thought perhaps the cables were froze up because my Father in law never used or tried that system. But the cables were free. That meant that the control valve body manifold under the seat had to come off. It looked like a daunting task.
I pulled the seat and cover plate and there is almost adequate room to work there. I cheated and cut back the cover plate access a little further to give more room careful not to cut any wires or hoses. I marked lines and shot a photo then removed all 7 lines coming to the manifold. (note that the #2 marked 90 degree line had a different thickness bottom washer) Remove the 3 bolts holding the manifold to the axle area and work the valve body out through the access hole. The remote cables will give you enough room to pull it out for access to the cable attachments.
Remove the jam nut , holding nut and thread the retaining clip back. Remove the 4 Allen bolts holding each of the remote cables to the body. Pull back cable tower and remove the pin holding the cable to the shuttle valves. After both cables are detached, take to the workbench.
Remove large flathead screws on top of valve body and remove oring, spring and pressure valve. (I had to use a hand impact to remove these screws). Remove the plastic cap allen screws and remove cap, plate, etc. You can now support the valve body in a vise and tap the shuttle valves out (either direction I believe) It took some pretty good taps with a oak block and hammer to get them to move. They were the problem since they had seized up from non use (plus there was traces of water in system which we purged several times, heating the oil with a turkey fryer to burn off the water, then purge with processed oil (2x for us), then changed to new oil and filter) . Free up the valve, polish any areas on the shuttle valve and reassemble.
I hope this helps someone that may experience a similar problem.
Paul
