McCormick/IH W6 Engine Oil

[Sawyer]

How do I check the oil on my new (to me) old W6 "Wheatland" tractor? There doesn't appear to be a dipstick anywhere (except me?). /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

How often should the oil be changed? I'm not going to wait till I go 3000 miles! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

What grade/type should I use on a 52 year young tractor here in the NW USA. Winter is coming and we can expect considerable freezing rain and a few feet of snow (total) with a few nights of -20 F and a few days of 0 for the high temperature. For much of the winter, the highs will be in the 20s with nights in the 'teens.

Thanks in advance for any help you good folks can provide.

 

[RonR]

You might have more responses in the http://ytmag.com/ (yesterday tractors).

I used to have a 1929 McCormack 22-30 (model 15-30 with more HP). I thought it had a dipstick, but I might be wrong--been too long.

Since these were built before multi-viscosity oils, I think you'd be ok with SAE 20 or 30 in the summer. Depends on if it's pulling or just for show. If it's show, I'd be tempted to run 10 wt in it in winter. You won't find a preheater on it, unless you use a torch under the pan!

I don't think 10w30 would hurt it, just buy something inexpensive.

Best wishes,
ron

 

[ALABAMA_KID]

I have been told by two different shops in my home town that you should change the oil every 100 hrs or six months. My yanmar service manual states every 100 hrs. Food for thought.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Pretty much all IH/Farmall tractors during the 50's had a decal on the oil filter cover (canister) that said change every 120 hours. Back then 30W was used extensively. I'd opt for a HD 15-40--Shell Rotella T, Delo400, etc. good luck! Bobg in Va

 

[Deerlope]

There should be a petcock on the block for checking the oil level. If memory serves me correct open the cock and if oil flows out that means it is full enough. Boy!!!!!!!! its been a long time since I check oil in one of them bears.
For the winter months I would use 20 weight. and in summer go up to 30,even 10-30 would not hurt it. How hard are you planning on working it?

 

[Spiffy]

Don't quote me on the W6, but most of the IH (Farmall, McCormick......) tractors in the 20s, 30s and 40s had petcocks instead of dipsticks.

Should be 3 of them. You open the top one (I always have to stop and think, but I believe they are left hand threaded, such that they work on right hand logic (CCW to open) when they screw inward to open) to check it. The top one indicates full, the middle: add and the lowest is for a partial oil change. The very part about having to think about opening them, often times they are broke off, and you just see the port with the broken "stud" left (often crusted over to really conceil its identity) on the right side of the oil pan.

When working with vintage machines that have not been in service (either not ran, just in parades, or just pulling the occasional wagon, ect.) for some time: the rule of thumb is non-detergent straight weight oil (can't go too wrong guessing 30). But if you know it had a rebuild in the last 30 years or was worked and serviced regularly, they likely started using newer oils, so you can continue to do the same.

If you feel safe running detergent oils (knowing the history I just mentioned, or similar history); I'd go with a 5-30 in the winter and a 10-30 or or 40 in the summer; a magnetic pan heater or better yet a coolant heater would be a good idea if you plan to depend on the machine in -20F.

Good Luck & have fun! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif