metal siding for 3 story barn

[havenhound]

I have a large L shaped bank barn with a stone foundation. It a couple hundred years old. I have had the sheltered sides all repaired with new wood and batten, best paint, etc. But the windward side (that faces away from the property and road,) I left because I ran out of money. I have to do something with it soon and am thinking about metal because the prospects of painting it every 5 years or even more frequently because of the elements . . (.its expensive because of all the scaffolding or the cost of equipment to reach the 3rd story) . .. is out of the question. I don't use the barn for storage of hay so moisture isn't a problem. Can I put the metal siding on right over the existing board and batten or does that have to come off? Are there any products that are definitely better for durability/wear and tear. I don't anticipate problems with livestock .. .the metal sides are up high enough to prevent major damage from bumping, kicking, shoving etc. Foundation is poured, reinforced cement and thick, reinforced stone walls.

 

[Eagleview]

If the boards are nailed on securely the tin would go over the top ok but would probably not be in keeping with the looks . Western Red Cedar Shiplap boards would look good and last forever without painting , maybe spray a bit of oil on them to darken . Just my 2.2cents inc gst .

 

[PILOON]

Sure, why not.
Many colors ore available so you can get a suitable match

If you do skin with metal siding, I'd suggest you space furring strips evenly, horizontally about every 16 - 20 inches for 2 reasons. (They could be any cheap lumber (even used) that you may have hanging around.)
1- it will even out any irregularities that are bound to exist.
2- it will allow breathing behind the metal siding.
Condensation will always happen on backside of metal and you want it to 'air dry'

I remouved a 10 yr old metal roof once that the workers had screwed directly onto plywood and it had barely one more year to go! It essentially was a handful of rusty scrap.
Also the ply underneith was pratically rotted out.

 

[havenhound]

Thanks for the information . .. I know I wouldn't have thought of "air" strips and while I like the idea of the cedar, the rest of the building is already painted in an earthy mushroom tone. i'm hoping i can match it with the metal siding. since the metal will all be on a completely different side (that is not viewed often), I'm hoping that it will hardly be noticed.

 

[LBrown59]

Thanks for the information . .. I know I wouldn't have thought of "air" strips and while I like the idea of the cedar, the rest of the building is already painted in an earthy mushroom tone. i'm hoping i can match it with the metal siding. since the metal will all be on a completely different side (that is not viewed often), I'm hoping that it will hardly be noticed.

Who says it has to match to look good?

 

[Eagleview]

I have a large L shaped bank barn with a stone foundation. It a couple hundred years old.

Would'nt it be a shame that something with this sort of heritage would lost to 20th century looks .

 

[tommu56]

check at Agears (not sure about spelling) down below mill hall just off 220 by past the auto auction about a mile or 2 down the road.

His prices were very reasonable when I was looking for some for my cabin.
He has sheets on how to install it too.

He has a phone out by the road pm me and I will find the number if you want it

tom

 

[ICGREEN]

Would'nt it be a shame that something with this sort of heritage would lost to 20th century looks .

I guess that depends on if you're the one faced with the expense of keeping it looking that way.

 

[skipmarcy]

Painted 29 ga. galvalume metal w/40 yr. warranty is going for $2.28 linear foot (3' wide) around here. It is painted white on the backside and won't corrode. The foil bubble wrap they have now will pretty much eliminate interior sweating, I used it when building my house & garage and am using it on the shed I'm building now. It comes in 4' width, 125' roll for around $150 (+/-). You use button cap nails to install it - Lowe's, Home Depot etc. all carry these. They are ring shank nails with a 15/16" diameter plastic washer. They are available in various lengths and easy to install - that washer is a good "handle" to keep your fingers out of the hammer's bite. You use the aluminum foil tape to do the seams.

 

[PILOON]

Most siding fabricators all use the same color chart and if memory serves me, ther are over 20 selections available. Whites, tans earth tones as well as strong solid colors.
Usually they also cut to length.
Many trims also available example; bottom 'finish drip strips' 'transition strips' for floor levels, and so forth.
My reccomendation would be to use color marched screws which with todays cordless drills would be a snap to install.
For a super neet job I have often pre drilled barches of siding prior to erecting, keeping the first sheet as the template on which the layout was made with a 'T' square.
Sure looks real nice when all the fastenets are perfectly lined up!
Note that screws (and nails if used) always go on the ridges and not on the flat surface.
(very important on roofs, less on siding)
We used to raise/place tin using a pair of vice grips and cord to haul and quickly slam 2 roofing nails to temporarily hold in place, followed by the screws.

Nails will always work loose as wood dries as well as cold/heat will loosen them.