MF FE 35 (1962) Hydro/Transmission Oil

[dourobob]

I have been away from this board (and my FE 35) for a while due to a couple of emergency eye surgeries (detached retina repair and scar tissue removal - getting older is a drag!!) Now that I have been able to get back on the tractor for an hour or so at a time I am having some further oil issues.

On Big Dean's web site site he warns about the cotter pin on the bellhousing being plugged to mask oil leaks. Mine moves freely and I did not see any appreciable accumulation of oil until I changed the fluids and started bush hogging.

Jack from NB recommended Coop Trans Hydraulic oil (uses it in all his vintage MFs) and, I trust his experience but ... not only does my 3PH leak down much more quickly now there is also hydro/trans oil leaking at the bell housing.

Others on this board and the YTMag board have said that the Coop Trans Hydralic is MUCH thinner (about 30 to 40 SAE) than the straight mineral 80/90 SAE recommended in the manual.

Now that I am using the tractor more should I:

1 - change the oil to 80/90 SAE and hope it helps the 3PH and reduces the leaking at the bell housing

2 - leave the Trans Hydraulic in and rebuild the hydraulic pump over the winter

3 - resign myself to splitting the tractor, replacing engine and transmission seals and rebuilding the pump (and doing whatever else is need once I am in there).

I am certainly leaning toward option one (simplest and cheapest) but I am interested in opinions on whether I am just putting off the inevitable.

Any suggestions, ideas, advice is welcomed.

Bob

 

[slowrev]

I would put what the manual recommends in there. The Co-op hydraulic oil I have seen is more like 20-30w. The 80-90W might very likely stop your leaks, if not you can replace any remaining leaky seals this winter. If you do need to replace any seals you can filter and re-use your 80-90W oil.
Good luck.
Ben

 

[Soundguy]

I can't speak for your particular oil situation, but here is something similar, and sounds like your problem.

I own some older fords ( 8n and NAA ). The an for instance used a gl-1 90wt pure mineral oil in the tranny/hyds/rearend common sump... gl-1 only though.. no ep style 80w90 gear oils like gl-5, etc.

New holland now sells a hydraulic transmission oil .. number is something like m2c134d... it is a thin oil.. guessing about 20wt. It is equivalent to the hytran oils out there at the farm stores, napa, etc... most of them cross to each other.

Most of us guys with old fords have found our hyd's perform better with the thick oil... less leakage too. Some have found ther axle trumpets leak with the thin stuff.

Your tractor.. but I like putting in what the manufacturer recomended.. even if it was 50 ys ago.. besides keep in mind that this is a final drive lube to.. 20wt oil seems a bit thin for lubing final drives.. I like the 90wt for that....

just my .02.

I know that tractor supply sells a brand called traveler marked as for fords 1939-1952.. it is the 90wtoil.. sometimes wallymart also sells a gl-1 90wt oil as well.
They are usually about 5 bucks more per 5 gallons than the universal hytran oils... when you buy it by the 5 gallon pails.

Soundguy

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color="blue">( splitting the tractor, replacing engine and transmission seals and rebuilding the pump (and doing whatever else is need once I am in there). ) </font>

If you plan on having the tractor for a few years down the road... you might as well bite the bullet and do it right... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I'm really sorry to hear about your eyes... my prayers are with you for a full recovery Bob...