MF1010 overheating

[bloody_peasant]

My MF1010 overheats really easy when running the MMM. I have kept the radiator cleaned well and topped off, but it heats up real quick even when cutting fairly short/light grass to the point the temp light comes on and it starts spitting radiator fluid out. Probably takes less than 20 minutes for it to get this way.

At first I thought it was a factor of the hot weather, but now it keeps on doing it even though it was much cooler this past weekend. It actually seems to be getting worse

The fan is working as expected too.

Could this be a problem with the MMM, maybe not turning freely enough and causing the engine to overwork? Although the pulleys seem to move pretty freely. Could a dull blade cause it?

Could it be cheap coolant or the wrong kind? Could it be a problem with the water pump or the radiator?

What should be my first steps in trying to diagnose it?

Note, it doesn't seem to have this problem with the rear PTO and the bush hog.

Finally after it heats up like this, is there anything I should do like change the oil? I figure if the engine is getting that hot it could be causing my oil to prematurely break down or something.

Thanksl

 

[RobJ]

Note, it doesn't seem to have this problem with the rear PTO and the bush hog.
Thanksl

Well I had something for you up until this point. IF the tractor has a few years on it I'd go ahead and change out the thermostat. Everything else you did is the proper protocol. I wouldn't worry about the oil.

Good Luck,
Rob

 

[Doc_Bob]

Well I had something for you up until this point. IF the tractor has a few years on it I'd go ahead and change out the thermostat. Everything else you did is the proper protocol. I wouldn't worry about the oil.

Good Luck,
Rob

I assume if you just remove the thermostat (temporarily) and it overheats, that rules out the thermostat?
Bob

 

[wushaw]

If it only does it with the MMM then this is the place to look. Check all spindel bearings, U-joints...etc.

 

[CATMAN]

I agree with RobJ, Just change the thermostat (regulator) first. Simple and cheap. Do not run without a thermostat(regulator) because it is also an orifice(restriction) for the cooling system. On many cooling systems, If the thermostat was totally removed, then the coolant flows soooo quickly thru the radiator core that the airflow over the fins doesn't have enough "time" to remove enough "heat" before the coolant goes back into the engine thru the bottom radiator hose. Then a vicious cycle starts and the coolant just gets hotter and hotter as a engine is worked (under load). Other things to check: Is the water pump belt driven? Is that belt tight? On somewhat rare occasions, internal water pump impellers can slip on their shafts and create a situation where it can't move the coolant thru the engine and radiator. Still change the thermostat first. One other item; engines and their cooling systems are designed as a unit. They should be able to handle full rated horsepower and torque at maximum "safe" temperature 24 hours a day 7 days a week. This implies all components are in working order; thermostat, water pump, fan, radiator(internally and externally), solid head gasket, and no internal cracks in the cylinder head or block(this would allow combustion gases to aerate the coolant and reduce heat transfer). I mention this because any implement or load that you put on or pull with your tractor shouldn't be the culprit of overheating. Excessive loads just pull down rpms on a diesel engine, they aren't the "root cause" of engines that overheat. Good Luck.

 

[CATMAN]

I just reread the original post again. Does the MMM use hydraulics anywhere? Is there a hydraulic oil cooler in front of the engine radiator? If so, could the increase air temperature from hyd. oil cooler then flows into the engine radiator fins, thus reducing the heat transfer rate for the engine radiator? I find it odd that rear pto/bushhog works fine but MMM doesn't.(cooling wise) I wouldn't think the "load" on the engine wouldn't be too much different going thru roughly the same debris/grass between those two implements. [If the horsepower requirements are roughly the same, then the stress on the cooling system is roughly the same] Still change the thermostat first.Cheap.

 

[bloody_peasant]

Thanks guys, I start my diagnosis this weekend and let you know what I find.

My first plan of attack after reading some older threads on overheating is as follows:

1. Actually wash the radiator off, use some simple green, etc. blow it out, etc. make sure it isn't gummed up with small particles/dirt, etc.
2. Flush it to make sure it isn't clogged with sludge. Its probably time for a good flush anyways.
3. Monitor it while running with the cap off to make sure the fluid is actually being pumped and check the hoses to make sure I can feel it as well.
4. Make sure the radiator is uniformaly hot, no cold spots that could indicate a blockage.
5. Check the MMM, grease it up, make sure nothing is wrapped around the blades, etc. and go ahead and sharpen the blades, I'm sure they need it and I'll get a better cut out of it.

Answering a couple of questions from CATMAN

Is the water pump belt driven? Is that belt tight?

Yes I believe it is, although I think its the same belt that runs the fan. Will my visual inspection I mention in #3 above be able to identify the problems you mention? The fan appears to be running properly with no slippage.

Does the MMM use hydraulics anywhere? Is there a hydraulic oil cooler in front of the engine radiator?

Nope I don't think so on both. Its a front mounted PTO with a big long belt running back to the MMM. I don't think there is any hydraulics involved and I don't see anything on the front of the radiator.

Here is a parts manual for pretty much my same engine, http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_400_3868_00_XX_A.pdf
(PDF). The cooling system starts on actual page 36 (or page 34 as listed in the manual).

Also, my tractor is missing the overflow reservoir, so it ends up spewing the fluid over my front right axle and the ground, I probably should get a replacement