MF135 Perkins Gas seized

[jjlanotte]

Oh boy fellas,

I need some help. I think i just spun a bearing in my perkins gas. It started knocking while I was out mowing and I disconnected the mower and creeped it back to the driveway at low rpm. While in low rpm, parked, it kind of stopped on its own. Now it wont turnover, seized. Looks like low oil was the cause. So. Where do I go from here. The tractor is in great shape other wise. Rebuild? In frame out of frame is there an option? I have no garage, can this even be done out doors? Please help guide me.

thanks

 

[jjlanotte]

update for anyone willing to chime in. She turns over barely, squeaks and struggles in the process. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Agvg]

Not much else to do than tear it down, are you lucky all you need is to machine the crankshaft and new bearings. But invest in a new oil pressure gauge. Have rebuild several AD3-152 witch had seized because of loss of oil pressure.

 

[Agvg]

A new crankshaft does not cost much but if it's not to expensive I'd rather machine the original, it's proven quality made by Perkins.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hi, I recall very similar symptoms with the 3cyl Perkins diesel in my MF40. I had recently bought the tractor knowing it had some issues that required rectification. One was a severe oil leak from the rear main seal. I didn't fill the oil past the low mark - it only leaked out more quickly. Whilst helping a friend prepare a site on a hillside for a large plastic water tank we must have faced uphill with a high engine load for too long ... the result was a spun con-rod bearing in No1 cylinder - a result of it receiving the bubbles instead of the oil. The engine could barely run under its own power - I shut it down immediately, but the damage was already done. I removed it and dismantled it for inspection. Aside from also fitting liner kits and bearing sets, the con-rod required resizing and the crankshaft big-end journals reground. The engine today is like a new one. You can remove the sump separately and inspect the situation, but it is incredibly heavy - use a floor jack (on wheels) and a really unpleasant job. The chances of being able to repair it by simply fitting new con-rod bearings are very slim anyway. That said, as long as the rest of the machine is in reasonable condition, repair it properly.

 

[jjlanotte]

Is there a good rebuild manual for this engine somewhere?

 

[Agvg]

mf_135_mf_148_service_manual_sec_wat(1).pdf - Google Drive

 

[PatrickS2222]

It is a considerable amount of work, but the satisfaction of having it working like a new one really does make it worthwhile.

It gives you the opportunity to sort out other engine issues as well - all in one job. I hope it all goes smoothly.

 

[Mecheng87]

jjlanotte,

I think you will need to split the tractor to get the crank out. This is not going to be fun without a covered garage, can you borrow a garage with a decent floor, jack, jackstands and chain fall or engine hoist and borrow or buy a strong engine stand. If the bores and or pistons have taken a hit you will need to install new sleeves and pistons and rings (as mentioned by PatrickS2222) a special sleeve puller is available or if you or someone you know is a machinist you can make the two end fixtures and puller out of 1" high strength treaded rod. Now would be the time to look at the cylinder head valves, seats and guides, rocker tips, tappets and camshaft. You will want to make sure all the oil galleries in the engine and crank are clean so that all this work is not wasted.

Cabot

 

[redman135]

I spun a bearing shell on my diesel 135, and because I shut down before it seized all I needed was bearing shells, seal kit, and polish the crankshaft on the spun bearing shell. The tractor did another 22 years before I sold it.
Don't be intimidated by the job, it is just a large meccarno set.
MAKE SURE you RECORD the WITNESS MARKS BEFORE you touch the timing gear.