MF1739E versus 1742 help with decision

[Unclewilley]

Hoping to get input to help with decision regarding replacement of nine year old CG2310 with a 1700 series tractor. I'm leaning toward a 1742 (Premium series) but trying to justify the additional $6,900 versus a 1739E (Economy series). I have quotes for both tractors from my local dealer that include tractor, front loader and 72 rear snow blower: 1739E $21,500 (60 bucket), 1742 $31,300 (66 bucket). They are offering app. $9,500 trade-in on my nine year old GC2310 TLB with mid-mount mower (670 hours on the tractor).

Main reasons for upgrade from GC2310 is need for "power" to run 72" versus current 48" snowblower on a 500 foot driveway near Buffalo NY. Last winters "SnowVember", seven (7) feet of snow in 3 days was a killer for my little 2310. It took an hour just to make it to the road on first pass with about 36" snow on the ground. With the 2310 I need to raise the blower back into snow few feet, pull forward, lower blower and backup again, repeating those steps to make the first cut to the road. Also need more power to a front loader to clear ditches, transplant trees etc.

Benefits of the 1742 appear to include:

• 42 hp vs. 39 hp
• Isolated-mounted flat enclosed platform with rubber cover
• Electronic rear PTO, wet clutch with Soft Start
• Premium suspension seat with armrests
• Bucket 66 skid-steer attach vs. 60 bucket pin type
• App. 50% greater FL lift capacity 1742 lift capacity 1,300 lbs. at max heights, breakout at 2,190 lbs. versus 830 lbs. and 1,460 lbs. respectively for 1739E
• Cruise control
• Max speed adjustment
• Acceleration adjustment
• Tilt steering
• Rear 3-point hitch lower arms extend for easier attachment hookup
• Crank versus turnbuckle for rear attachment height adjustment
• Brakes dual pedal

Option: Snow blower 72 with hydraulic chute requires adding remote to rear PTO $1,329 - worth the price?

 

[Beltman60]

you can buy a few extra implements with 10K

 

[zudnik]

I'm looking at a gc1710, but shoot me some details on your 2310 because I might be willing to give you more than the dealer would.

 

[Unclewilley]

I'm looking at a gc1710, but shoot me some details on your 2310 because I might be willing to give you more than the dealer would.

CG2310 TLB (Tractor, loader, backhoe) app. 670 hours. Also have a 48" rear mount snow blower, mid-mount-mower 60", post hole digger and a large cart/trailer. Purchased app. Feb. 2006.

I live in Western NY just south of Buffalo.

 

[Unclewilley]

Can anyone who owns a 1739E or 1742 comment on their experience with either of these tractors?

 

[TSO]

I have the 1648 and love it. Great tractor. The 1742 is obviously the updated version of mine (smaller series) and of course is a deluxe tractor, whereas the 1739e is an economy model. While I enjoy having the features of the deluxe tractor, I understand that it's up to each purchaser to determine their value. I guess the reality is, either tractor will do the work. But, are the extra features and capabilities worth the added cost TO YOU?

 

[Unclewilley]

TSO, thanks for the comments.

For blowing snow, any idea how much advantage in the added hp of the 1742 vs. 1739E?

 

[TSO]

TSO, thanks for the comments.

For blowing snow, any idea how much advantage in the added hp of the 1742 vs. 1739E?

See if the dealer will provide the manual for both tractors for you to look at. You should be able to see the actual torque output and torque rise for each engine.

Keep in mind, the E series tractors use the same 1.5L Shibaura engine for the 1726e, 34e & 39e. While the premium series uses a 1.7L Mitsubishi in the 1736, 42 & 49.

So... That means the engine in the 1739e is already pushed to the top of its capacity for the high HP numbers (at a higher rpm too) and so torque numbers might not be great. In comparison, the Mitsu in the 1742 is at more of a medium HP tune, so the torque numbers will likely be better.

While rated HP is fine for spec books, sustained torque is what you need for PTO work.

 

[Unclewilley]

See if the dealer will provide the manual for both tractors for you to look at. You should be able to see the actual torque output and torque rise for each engine.

Keep in mind, the E series tractors use the same 1.5L Shibaura engine for the 1726e, 34e & 39e. While the premium series uses a 1.7L Mitsubishi in the 1736, 42 & 49.

So... That means the engine in the 1739e is already pushed to the top of its capacity for the high HP numbers (at a higher rpm too) and so torque numbers might not be great. In comparison, the Mitsu in the 1742 is at more of a medium HP tune, so the torque numbers will likely be better.

While rated HP is fine for spec books, sustained torque is what you need for PTO work.

Great info, THANKS!!!!

 

[Unclewilley]

See if the dealer will provide the manual for both tractors for you to look at. You should be able to see the actual torque output and torque rise for each engine.

Keep in mind, the E series tractors use the same 1.5L Shibaura engine for the 1726e, 34e & 39e. While the premium series uses a 1.7L Mitsubishi in the 1736, 42 & 49.

So... That means the engine in the 1739e is already pushed to the top of its capacity for the high HP numbers (at a higher rpm too) and so torque numbers might not be great. In comparison, the Mitsu in the 1742 is at more of a medium HP tune, so the torque numbers will likely be better.

While rated HP is fine for spec books, sustained torque is what you need for PTO work.

The only info I have found so far is Rated PTO HP (kW)
1739E: Gear: 29.0 (21.6) HST: 27.2 (20.3)
1742: Gear: 32.8 (24.5) HST: 31.6 (23.5)

 

[mossdown]

Hey Unclewilley, I have owned a 1739E since last August . This tractor for the size and cost has served me extremely well. I went with the gear drive vs hydro. Mine has the pin on bucket. No rear remotes. Dealer quotes me $1400.00 for front and rear remotes. as far as snow blowing I have no idea. I just use the front loader. I till with a 65' tiller, plow with a 2 bottom 14" plow, bush hog large and small acreage, grade long and short driveways, spread stone, and grade private property yards for landscaping. I have had zero problems or wished I had a larger tractor. I have compared both to each other last Tuesday while at the dealer just nibbin around and the 1742 has bigger tires and a bigger frame for my use I am happy with my choice. I was more economy based with my choice as I didn't need all the premium gadgets. If I would have had the fortune- hit a lottery- I can say yes the 1742 would be in the barn. How much do you want to spend? good luck with your choice.

 

[Unclewilley]

Hey Unclewilley, I have owned a 1739E since last August . This tractor for the size and cost has served me extremely well. I went with the gear drive vs hydro. Mine has the pin on bucket. No rear remotes. Dealer quotes me $1400.00 for front and rear remotes. as far as snow blowing I have no idea. I just use the front loader. I till with a 65' tiller, plow with a 2 bottom 14" plow, bush hog large and small acreage, grade long and short driveways, spread stone, and grade private property yards for landscaping. I have had zero problems or wished I had a larger tractor. I have compared both to each other last Tuesday while at the dealer just nibbin around and the 1742 has bigger tires and a bigger frame for my use I am happy with my choice. I was more economy based with my choice as I didn't need all the premium gadgets. If I would have had the fortune- hit a lottery- I can say yes the 1742 would be in the barn. How much do you want to spend? good luck with your choice.

Thanks a lot for the info. Suspect I only "need" a 1739E, the big kid in me would like the 1742 frills
Have you used your tractor to dig/grade any "ditches"? I have about a 1,000 ft. ditch that drains water from the back of our property that I need to keep clear and would like to smooth the sides so I stop getting my ZTR mower stuck. I have seen videos of using a box blade at an angle. Any suggestions?

 

[mossdown]

I have made drain ditches using a box blade as you mentioned. Yes you can angle 1 side up or down depending on which side of the drain you start on. Have you any experience with a box blade? You can also use a rear grader blade that has the tilt function to it. I have on several occasions used my box blade at a tilt to fill in washed out gravel driveways. The wash out water usually finds the lowest side of the drive going down hill. so many people around here do not build or maintain a proper drive but that is another thread. U tube videos are a great learning tool . Watch a lot so you can filter the bad ones and then you will have your own learning experiences. Heck that's why a lot of us have tractors and implements -TO PLAY WITH-...

 

[ErikVann]

I have 1742. Purchased it a couple of months ago. I have been very impressed with it plenty of power at the pto and the ground. not to sound too superficial but the ugly headlights on the 1739e are enough of a reason to get the 1742. As moss down said the 1742 is a larger tractor frame and larger wheels.

Does that price include rim guard in the tires? I got mine with one rear remote, loaded tires fel with had bucket for $29k and change. Seems like you might be able to do a bit better on the price. Have fun no matter which model you go with.

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

I owned a 2007 1540 with the Powershuttle and now own a 2013 1643 with Hydro. Obviously, both are "premium" tractors. My dad owns a John Deere 850 (22hp) that has an 8x2 tranny. It's a good, solid tractor that has served us well for 35 years, but the added features and niceties of the Masseys set them apart.

It's your money, you spend it as you see fit. Having said that, now that I've experienced "premium" tractors, I don't think I would go back to economy models. Over the course of 15, 20, 30 years, the extra money spent on them will seem like chicken scratch.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

SSQA and extra lift capacity are something to seriously consider. I swap my bucket for my pallet forks all the time so it's a great feature to have. The telescoping arms would be nice but I have a set of Pats and they make 3pt hook up real fast. Tough decision but I would probably go for the upgrade.

 

[TSO]

SSQA and extra lift capacity are something to seriously consider. I swap my bucket for my pallet forks all the time so it's a great feature to have. The telescoping arms would be nice but I have a set of Pats and they make 3pt hook up real fast. Tough decision but I would probably go for the upgrade.

Good point... Something like a nice used 1648 with the DL130 loader would be nice.

 

[Unclewilley]

I have 1742. Purchased it a couple of months ago. I have been very impressed with it plenty of power at the pto and the ground. not to sound too superficial but the ugly headlights on the 1739e are enough of a reason to get the 1742. As moss down said the 1742 is a larger tractor frame and larger wheels.

Does that price include rim guard in the tires? I got mine with one rear remote, loaded tires fel with had bucket for $29k and change. Seems like you might be able to do a bit better on the price. Have fun no matter which model you go with.

Seems like I should press on the price, no reason to pay more than our friends in MA

​

EDIT: The price I was quoted $31,300 includes a 72" rear snow blower (lists $3,400), so it looks competitive to $29K for tractor, bucket and rear remote.

Larger wheels: I asked about the larger wheels and the dealer said I could get smaller diameter if I preferred. That would just reduce ground clearance. I was concerned about the height of the tractor as my garage door opening height is max 95納/B]. Dealer stated heights: 1742 with smaller tires 8? (101") with small tires and ROPS up, 6? (78") with the ROPS folded. Need to check height with ROPS folded and larger tires.

Re "loaded tires", I believe that's included from the following response to my question to the dealer about any need for additional ballast:

No more ballast is required other than the included loaded rear tires. Everything we sell with a loader gets Rimguard in the rear tires, filled to 75% capacity. This adds an additional 1200-1500 pounds of rear ballast. Rimguard is non-toxic and won't rust the rims like calcium chloride would.​

 

[Tompet]

Do you have any other Massey dealers close enough for another quote? Since you have a list and know exactly what you want a direct comparison between a couple different dealers on an otd price would be worth the effort.

Around my location there are three Massey dealers in different direction all about 30 minutes away and from past experience I know the price from each will noticeably vary.

I'm surprised SSQA is not available on the "e" series. One minor point I noticed on most of the lower priced line of tractors by manufacturers that have them is the lack of a flat operators platform. It is a nice feature IMO. I don't see how it is a savings in the manufacturing process but the hump is there on most economy lines.

Enjoy your new tractor!

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

I've often thought it would be cheaper to manufacture just one type of "thing" (tractor, etc.), than offering an upscale version and a stripped version with different parts, castings, etc. Common sense would say it would be less expensive to make ALL your models have SSQA, or the same hoods, fenders, etc.

Then it dawned on me that these tractors don't come off the same assembly line. They aren't even made in the same countries. Therefore, it doesn't matter that they're different and there'd be no savings from making them alike.