Might have fried the alternator in my 1700...

[Graelb]

Hi!

I'm the guy splitting his 1700, replacing the clutch, and doing other things...

Whelp, putting the beast back together, I (admittedly dumbly) hooked up the battery backwards. It was hooked up that way for a solid couple of minutes, and the wife starts hollerin that there's smoke, so I pull the battery cables off and try to figure out what happened (that part was pretty quick), and find out the smoke was coming from the alternator.... great.

Swap the battery cables around so they're connected properly, and think I'll try it out to make sure everything is working, but the alternator just heats up and starts smoking. Mind you, there's no key turned on or anything at this point, simply hooking the battery back up properly is resulting in a smoking alternator... Assuming I shorted something in there, and since the battery cables go directly into the alternator, It's just shorting.

Long story long, I haven't been able to test out the clutch yet, and have a new alternator on order (this one to be exact: Ford 1700 Alternator - SBA185046150). What are the odds that I ALSO fried the regulator, and what's the risks associated with just slapping this new alternator in, and seeing if she'll fire up?

Secondary question... equipped with only a cherry picker, and myself, what's the easiest way to get the loader hooked up to the tractor? I have it on a trailer right now, so moving it too much isn't really an option. I want to hook it up so I can test the clutch, without blowing up the pump because the lines aren't recirculating (if I were to just cap the lines from the tractor to the loader. )

 

[Roadworthy]

I suspect your burned out the diodes in your alternator. You could take it to a local shop that repairs them and have them check it out. They'll probably be able to check the regulator, too. As far as the loader goes - I haven't a clue.

 

[Dave M7040]

After the cooking you gave the alternator while it was connected to the voltage regulator, best to buy new regulator too.

Your tractor has an open center hydraulic system. Is the loader control valve on the tractor or the loader?

If it is already on the tractor and its feed and tank return lines are connected to the valve, there is no issue with running the tractor with the lines to the loader cylinders open.

Dave M7040

 

[Graelb]

After the cooking you gave the alternator while it was connected to the voltage regulator, best to buy new regulator too.

Your tractor has an open center hydraulic system. Is the loader control valve on the tractor or the loader?

If it is already on the tractor and its feed and tank return lines are connected to the valve, there is no issue with running the tractor with the lines to the loader cylinders open.

Dave M7040

Any risk in trying to run it without the regulator?

 

[Dave M7040]

Any risk in trying to run it without the regulator?

If the alternator has ALL wiring to it disconnected then no risk

Dave M7040

 

[Roadworthy]

Depending on how it's wired, if the alternator is putting out at all it could go wide open providing sixteen volts to the battery. You'd be better served just trying to run it without the battery. If you don't have any computer stuff the battery is only used to start and power the indicators and lights anyhow. You will need to put the battery on a charger from time to time running without the alternator.

 

[radios1]

I'd be very surprised if you didn't burn out all electronics in that tractor that was connected!..

 

[Graelb]

If the alternator has ALL wiring to it disconnected then no risk

Dave M7040

Apologies, I meant if I replace the alternator with the new one coming in, and the regulator is fried, what is the risk in hooking up the alternator and running the tractor?

 

[JC-jetro]

- Have you opened the alternator and check the winding? you can check for a short in the winding? do you smell burnt circuit in the regulator? the regulator is mechanical, I have not had a chance or need to open one but the contacts internally might be fused due to current rush,might be able to open and clean the contacts.
- you can get the tractor started with no alternator. You can also jump the tractor with a jumper cable directly from the starter where it would by pass the neutral safety switch. if the alt electrical connection is removed off of the old alt then there is no chance of damaging the regulator any.
- did you check any of the fuses below the steering column?
-why do you want to put the loader back on for checking he clutch?
-I saw your pics, with loader and tractor on the trailer it is hard to move things around and line them up. obviously concrete floor would have been advantageous if you had the option.
-is loader off the tractor with it's hydraulic lines? are they quick connect? like someone said the hyd is "open center", meaning you have full flow in your circuit , you either uses flow to do some hyd stuff or the flow is diverted back to diffy and the pump is not deadheaded. Your spool valve on the loader is normally in Neutral position (bypass to the diffy) so plugging the lines by cap , nipple/cap or suitable plug would be an option for moving the tractor off of the trailer to verify the clutch operation before attempting to get the loader on.

JC,

 

[Dave M7040]

Apologies, I meant if I replace the alternator with the new one coming in, and the regulator is fried, what is the risk in hooking up the alternator and running the tractor?

It seems like an unwise decision. First you have smoke coming from the original alternator because of reversed jumper cables, you decide to buy a new alternator at a low price but now want to save $ by taking a chance and connecting a new alternator to an questionable regulator. Risk.... you need to buy another new alternator and a new regulator.

Dave M7040