Oil & Fuel Milky substance on engine oil cap.

[Smoody]

UPDATE:
I was able to get out this past weekend and drain the oil from the tractor, I loosened the oil drain bolt just enough for it to run out slowly and caught that in a cup, I do see the presence/separation of coolant/oil, but it was not as much as I originally lead you guys to believe, none the less its getting in there. I changed the oil again and topped off the radiator a bit with 50/50 Preston, started engine, took the rad cap off and did see bubbles. From my reading that means it is 1 of 2 things, head gasket or warped/cracked head, correct? Tractor started easy, didn't smoke or anything, hopefully it is just the gasket, but I thought I would be getting excessive smoking and hard starting with a bad head gasket??

Would my next step be a pressure test on the cooling system or does the presence of bubbles tell the whole story?

Could a cracked block cause the bubbling in the radiator?? I always assume its the worst case scenario....and yes I know what ASSume means

Thanks!

 

[clemsonfor]

i think you have your answer no need to pressure test as you know it wont hold, you already told us when you said coolant in the oil. Id order a head gasket and pull the head and get it to a shop to check for any warpage or cracks and iff good replace the head gasket and torq back down. Anoter clue is that you see the bubbels out of the head and block seem like you said.

As far as all the white smoke and hard starts you looking for there are varing degrees of bad gaskets ones so bad that an engine will miss on that bad cylinder and others that are ever so slight that they really dont do anything but loose a little power and contaminate the fluids. That being said none are good or should they be run that way they lead to overheating and if you are lucky enough to not have a cracked head you could soon have one.

As far as a cracked block, it could be but if thats the case you have to remove the head anyway to look at it so i would not worry about that unless the head gasket and head check out good.

sorry to hear about your results but at least you know where to start looking.

-Nate

 

[careyo63]

Not Me I would test the compression. It will help to see if you may be due for some Rings if not more when you get a look at the Cylinders and not for just to see if the compression Leaks Down.
You have already done over half the hard work new rings are a piece of cake. If it's a head gasket most cases your going to see it from the bad gasket area. Hairline Cracks and a warped head may be hard to see or detect so have it checked. Since you know were your compression is running and have a visual on the cylinders you will be able to make a good determination of the cylinders condition. With the head and valves checked you would most likely be good for another 30+ yrs. oil pan gasket and rod bearings would be it off the top of my head.

Carey

 

[Smoody]

Thanks for the help guys, can someone clear this next question up please...

If it turns out to be a gasket or a warped/cracked head what would have caused it? particularly the warped/cracked head, that can only be a result of overheating correct? and if that is the case what made it overheat? what im getting at is if it is indeed a cracked head then the cooling system is to blame and is the real issue??

 

[careyo63]

Yes most likely Smoody it would be a good reason why May want to flush the radiator before you pull it down. I'ts not that bad of a deal. Take your time and just catch everything while you have it apart.

Carey

 

[deepNdirt]

Thanks for the help guys, can someone clear this next question up please...

If it turns out to be a gasket or a warped/cracked head what would have caused it? particularly the warped/cracked head, that can only be a result of overheating correct? and if that is the case what made it overheat? what I'm getting at is if it is indeed a cracked head then the cooling system is to blame and is the real issue??

you said found coolant in the oil, this ruling out the possibility that the head or block could have froze and cracked under cold temps, unless if the coolant was added later after the fact, But lets not lean that way just now,

many things could cause it to have run hot, I think what i have read is a clogged radiator is No# 1 cause many of these tractors to run hot, sometimes folks forget to clear the dirt from the radiator cooling core as part of the routine maintenance, actually this should be checked even more so then any other part of the tractor, there should be a screen in front of the radiator to help catch most debris, it is important that this remain clear, of course a tractor doesn't travel at speeds to allow free air flow to enter the cooling cores of the radiator, the fan is the only means of pulling air through to cool the water, Clogged rad means no air = runs hot,
this is the general cause of one to run hot,
I'll not speak on any other causes as i wouldn't be sure of things about your tractor, water pump? etc,

 

[clemsonfor]

not sure how the block of water jackets are set up but there may be a clump of mud /rust in a cooling passage that allows just a part of the block head to over heat causing a runhot senario, just thinking out loud.