Minimum running time?

[Teikas Dad]

I don't use my tractor to plow the back 40, skid logs out of the forest of move bales of hay around. It's primarily a weekend warrior for small landscaping, yard maintenance, snow clearing, etc. Sometimes I use the tractor for a job that might only take 5 minutes or so. I always let it idle for a minute or two when I first start it up to make sure everything is getting lubed properly. But, I know it's not good for any engine to do short start-up/run/shutdown cycles. This is the first diesel that I've ever owned and I'm planning on taking care of the tractor so it will last as long, or longer than me.

Is there a recommended minimum running time for longer engine life? I realize in the winter it takes longer to warm up, so I'm looking for a general idea for warm weather running and cold weather running.

Thanks!

 

[Daver1963]

From my Kubota L2800 manual.

 

[Teikas Dad]

The owner's manual....whoda thunk it! I guess it would help if I looked there first!

 

[TomSeller]

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The owner's manual....whoda thunk it! I guess it would help if I looked there first!

But at least you thought to ask, some people don't even do that. Kubota is very conservative on these warm up times. The extreme cold days do require of course more warm time if you are storing in an unheated location like most do. I do back my equipment out of the barn slowly then let it warm up there while I am getting whatever ready.

 

[Teikas Dad]

Mine is in an unheated barn but it rarely gets below freezing as it's insulated and has living space overhead. I have to fold down the ROPS to clear the garage door so what I've been doing is let it run for a minute or so inside then creep outside. By the time I get off and raise the ROPS, get back on, put on the seat belt and bask in the glory of my Kubota, it's usually a couple of more minutes. In the winter (only had it one winter) I let it sit and idle for at least an extra 5 minutes or so.

I was more concerned with doing short duration runs where I work the tractor and shut down it after 10 or 15 minutes. I didn't know if I should let it run longer or not to burn out any condensation, etc.

 

[creekbend]

I use the info in my Owner's Manual. Since I have a FEL, I make sure that the Hydraulic Fluid has had ample time to circulate also before lifting a load or pushing. After awhile, during different temperatures, You should be able to tell by the sound of the Motor and the heat guage on your dash.

 

[Arc weld]

Run it long enough to bring the engine up to normal operating temperature. With a diesel that usually means you need to work it some. Any condensation in the engine will be fully evaporated at operating temperature. I read that any engine should be run up to operating temperature to avoid creating condensation no matter what the outside temperature.

 

[MHarryE]

Kubota's manual specifically addresses hydraulic/transmission oil. The CUTs have suction filters. Cold oil (thick) and suction filters don't get along well together - pump cavitation. That has been one advantage of Super UDT (now Super UDT2) is it's lower viscosity at low temps and the quieter hydrostatic system that people talk about. Of course the engine needs to warm up too but a diesel differs from a gasoline engine. Gasoline enters as a vapor that can condense on cold cylinder walls. Diesel fuel is an oil that relays on the high pressure injectors to break it up into fine particles for combustion and condensation is a lesser problem. However my neighbor blew the crankshaft seal on his 150 HP New Holland last winter, not because he didn't let it warm up long enough but even with a lengthy warm up having 15W-40 oil in below zero weather is bad. Mine gave 5W-40 synthetic - because I can't find a 0W Diesel engine oil locally. Your real cold weather woes are getting oil to flow freely.

 

[john_bud]

I try to run hard for an hour AFTER reaching operating temp.

If you dont, in COLD areas you can build up water in the oil from blowby gases. If you only run short times, even in moderate climes, check for milky oil (water contam). Water is death to bearings if you let it stay in there. Plus it will rust ... even in the pan. Weird but true!

 

[Teikas Dad]

Thanks all. I'll just need to find more projects so I can run the tractor longer!

I hear you on the oil in cold weather. I don't have 50 hours yet (only about 30), but I've had the tractor for a year. So, to play it safe I'm going to change the oil on it now. I'm going to stick with 10w-30 dino oil until the 50 hour mark then I'm going to make the switch to synthetic. I've read a bunch of posts that say not to switch to synthetic too soon or the motor won't break in properly. Others say it doesn't matter... I'm no engineering expert so I figured I'd play it safe and pick up 6 qts of Kubota oil for this change.