MITSUBISHI MT2501D

[wild1bill]

Just bought this tractor. Has had POOR maint. Little to none actually. Many things have been cobbled. I talked to Valley Power and the folks at W. Ky. Tractor Parts and they seem to think that there is reason for hope. Probably will need many parts for this old Beast and Her loader. If anyone has parts and/or information I'd sure be greatful. Every time I get near the tractor or do something to Her, another issue or question comes up. Some frustrating but interesting. Folks that don't take some care of their tools....:confused2:

 

[Kernopelli]

I suggest the first thing you do is get a manual. Stormer Tractor sells a 2501 specific repair manual for about $100 but a I&T service manual that covers the 160-300 series tractors are about $25 on the net and will cover a lot of common parts/issues. I'm a confirmed Mitsubishi lover and have owned more of them than any other brand. I love a bargain and don't mind a project so you've piqued my interest.

The 2501 is a fine tractor, I especially love the 4 cylinder Mitsubishi engines. I have owned several of various sizes, including your model and they are as good as any older tractor out there. Obviously you have been talking to WKYTP, which is always the first place I recommend people to for used parts. The folks at Valley Power are great too and Leonard Sheaffer/ Town & Country Tractors 815-284-3226 is also one of the most knowledgeable Mitsubishi guys out there and can get any part that is available, even if it has to come from Japan.There are many other Mitsubishi parts dealers on the net and you should be able to get most engine parts still and all the common things. What kind of loader is on the tractor? To me, those are still a really good looking tractor with a factory color paint job....lots of pics available online to see what one should look like. Good luck on this tractor and keep us updated.

 

[wild1bill]

Darryl, Thanks for the info. I haven't spent much time with the tractor yet. Brought Her home Saturday and parked outside my shop. Went out Sun. morn and the battery was dead. Batt that was in it was too large for the space and had been secured with a bunji so it had rubbed a hole in one corner allowing the juice to run out of one cell. New batt Tues. just to move the tractor from in front of the shop doors. Have ordered new ignition switch, dipstick, fuel cap, manuals. There is water in the hydraulic oil, leaking fluid in many places, nasty dirt caked to all leaked fluids, no dipstick, loader bucket will not curl (up), no seat, ign. switch is wrong for this tractor, bucket needs refurb. (rub holes in bottom), will likely need to replace (maybe repair leaks) loader control, bought 2 used rear tires (U.S. style), need two front tires, much rust (fixable), ALL the electrical needs to be looked into and much repaired, I'll need to do some welding on the brackets that attach the loader to the tractor and add some proper bolts. That's just what I've seen in a couple of hours. The motor starts instantly, purrs well and is strong,as are most other functions. Haven't been able to tell brand of loader yet. Hour meter quit at 1750 (when ?). Paid $2,500 and added $221 so far. A little time and elbow grease and She will be gooder than NEW. I like my tractor.

 

[Kernopelli]

Well, $2500 wouldn't have scared me on the purchase. The things you mentioned all sound like small issues....yes, small issues can add up quick but I think you're OK. For someone who feels rewarded by investing their personal time into a tractor project and can do everything himself, it can be a very gratifying and cost effective way to have a nice finished tractor. The main things to be concerned about are certainly engine condition and trans and drive train hard parts....the latter being the harder and more expensive things to get if they are broken. It sounds like those are in good shape since you have started and driven the tractor so your OK there. The curl function may just be a quick connect not being properly seated ( if it has them) or similar relatively easy issue....at worst you are probably looking at replacing some cylinder seals or replacing the joystick valve ( try Surplus Center or Bailfeynet.com for Hydraulic needs). The TBN mantra is that it never happened w/o pics :thumbsup:

On edit: Just curious...does the end loader have a round tube style frame or square/rectangular? The round tube style are the Japanese (probably original factory) loaders. The other style could be anything. Does the tractor by chance have a shuttle shift trans? I've only seen one 2501 w/ this option and honestly wasn't sure it was even badged correctly but a shuttle would certainly be sweet with the loader.

 

[wild1bill]

The loader arms are tubular. They are somewhat oval and quite strong. Some paint (decals?) on them say (said) Mitsubishi but...The bucket is not large. Kind of rounded. The bottom is worn through in a few places. And it has teeth that are in good condition. The bucket is easily removed with pins. I will probably rebuild it (straighten, patch, fill, replace metal) and attempt to keep as much of the original as possible. Of course I'm not against replacing it with a nice undamaged unit if it came to me cheap-to-free. The loader control is 'joy stick' but right now it only does one operation at a time. The trans is not shuttle but, shifts smoothly and once I get used to it will work more smoothly for me. I am thankful enough for the ability of the Tractor, that the mindset of working a loader with manual shifting won't trouble me greatly.
At this point I have to thank the folks at Valley Power for the help and info they have given me on this tractor. We spent quite a bit of time on the phone (their dime, too) talking about Her. I expect to spend more of their time and others as well in the near future. Hope it will be worth their while. Much thanks to you at TBN also.
I usually don't do group things but with this Tractor it seems like I will have a much easier time if I do the networking thing. Maybe others will profit by the experience, also. If anyone is interested, I can put out pictures of 'before' and any major progress made. Seems like that kind of place (although I have not looked at the Photo Gallery yet) .
Have not recieved any manuals yet. Does anyone know what the lifting cap. of these loaders might be? Aren't power tools cool.

 

[Kernopelli]

The loader arms are tubular. They are somewhat oval and quite strong. Some paint (decals?) on them say (said) Mitsubishi but...The bucket is not large. Kind of rounded. The bottom is worn through in a few places. And it has teeth that are in good condition. The bucket is easily removed with pins. I will probably rebuild it (straighten, patch, fill, replace metal) and attempt to keep as much of the original as possible. Of course I'm not against replacing it with a nice undamaged unit if it came to me cheap-to-free. The loader control is 'joy stick' but right now it only does one operation at a time. The trans is not shuttle but, shifts smoothly and once I get used to it will work more smoothly for me. I am thankful enough for the ability of the Tractor, that the mindset of working a loader with manual shifting won't trouble me greatly.
At this point I have to thank the folks at Valley Power for the help and info they have given me on this tractor. We spent quite a bit of time on the phone (their dime, too) talking about Her. I expect to spend more of their time and others as well in the near future. Hope it will be worth their while. Much thanks to you at TBN also.
I usually don't do group things but with this Tractor it seems like I will have a much easier time if I do the networking thing. Maybe others will profit by the experience, also. If anyone is interested, I can put out pictures of 'before' and any major progress made. Seems like that kind of place (although I have not looked at the Photo Gallery yet) .
Have not received any manuals yet. Does anyone know what the lifting cap. of these loaders might be? Aren't power tools cool.

Definitely a factory loader. Hard to say what the specifications are on it. Unless someone like Len S. or the guys at V. Power have an old factor manual around ( probably in Japanese) probably be next to impossible to find out. They are heavy loaders but they tend to stick out pretty far in front of the tractor which diminishes lifting capacity some. A Koyker 140 with 1 3/4" cylinders @ 2200psi is rated to lift about 1300 lbs and the 145 w/ 2" cylinders is rated at about 1800lbs but they are designed with the bucket closer to the front ( lift arms aren't as long as the Mitsubishi's) so I doubt it would lift as much with comparable cylinder size, plus I think you have the same pump as me and it's rated at about 1950+/- psi.....whatever it is, it's going to be more than you can get in the bucket or want to lift in most cases.

And definitely chronicle this project, I promise, there will be someone, someday that it will benefit directly with their own 2501.As far as pics...TBN says W/O pics you could be some environmentalist-anti diesel smoke-wacko just stringing us along . Show us your baby!

 

[wild1bill]

Actually, I'm a truck driver-once-a-building-contractor-anti-send our economy out of the country-bluegrass-lovin'-politicly incorrect-old-hippie....So, you think the loader is original Mitsubishi? The main reason to know what the lifting cap. is would be to assist my tired old muscles without damaging the tool.
Have any of you heard of the classified ad website 'LSN.com' ? I use it often to buy and sell and browse. Bought my tires from it. The site is mostly the South but is catching on other places, too. I've been using it for about 6 yrs. Check it out. Very user friendly. If you fiddle with it some you can find ways to search and list in your area that are not immediatly apparent. Much less spam than craigslist.
I'm looking for front tires for the 2501 with a non-rice paddy tread. 5 or 6x14. Have 14in. auto tires on now. Don't know how much damage they may have done to gears . How similar is diameter? Lots to learn about a small machine.

 

[Kernopelli]

I'll check LSN out. Hoye tractor has 6-14 R1's for $86+ shipping ( great people) and Megatires on ebay has them for $89 w/ free shipping. You can get the true dimensions for either and use one of the many online tire calculators to see if they are close enough in size to OEM to be OK....probably are. Can't remember what is supposed to come on the 2501D. Is it 9.5X24 rears and 6-14 fronts? Valley power can probably confirm the correct size if you are unsure of exactly what size you need for the front.

As far as the loader, you'll think you've died and gone to heaven. You'll be using it for picking up sticks in the yard before it's over. As far as hurting it...you won't have to worry about that. As long as common sense is used, it's set up where relief valves will kick in before the loader will destroy itself.

Edit: Just went to ebay this morning and these were showing on my home page...http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NEW-6x14-YANM...699125&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=8796744079826920070

 

[wild1bill]

Rears are 11.2x24 fronts 5-6x14. That link is cheap! I'll contact them to check specs and such. Thanks. Rec'd my manuals and ignition switch from VP, in the mail but no fuel cap. Dip stick needs to come from Japan. Don't know what happened about the fuel cap and gasket. Have to call. Just made a space in the shop for semi long term tractor parking. Diddle with Tractor while putting new CV joint in the Geo and rebuilding the motor in the Chevy Suburban. (Maybe replace motor. Water in oil but don't know why yet.) Actually more interested in Tractor than autos but....

 

[Kernopelli]

According to Michelin and Firestone's sites the 11.2R24 has a rolling circumference of about 130" and a 6R14 has 75" which is 1.73/1 ratio. I think as long as you stay kinda close to this you'll be fine, especially if you are running on dirt or otherwise soft ground that allows for a little wheel spin. If you're front rim is 5" wide go with a 6x14 or 6.00x14 if it's 6" wide you can get a 7x14 tire which would probably put you somewhere around 1.70(-?)/1 .