ALBALD1
Silver Member
What are advantages & disadvantages of midmount vs rearmount finish mowers? How do you get the midmount off & out of the way when you aren't using it.
mmm vs rmm
- Thread starter ALBALD1
- Start date
- Views: 2313
DmansPadge
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2004
- Messages
- 1,698
- Location
- Orange, TX
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620, Toro 2000 Series Z Master
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What are advantages & disadvantages of midmount vs rearmount finish mowers?)</font>
Just for starters, mowing is easier with the mmm. When using the rfm you constantly have to look behind you and the mmm is like mowing with a lawn tractor.
Just for starters, mowing is easier with the mmm. When using the rfm you constantly have to look behind you and the mmm is like mowing with a lawn tractor.
Henro
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
- Messages
- 4,982
- Location
- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini EX
I'll add, the RFM does not follow curves well, as it want's to move away from what the front wheels are following around.
Good for backing up under something like pine branches maybe, but not good for backing up to a ditch, because the rear wheels fall in and the mower scalps... Maybe with a hydraulic top link this might be avoided(with constant adjustment), but with my manual top link my hopes to be able to back up to a ditch were trashed by the flex designed into the linkage that is necessary for the mower to follow the ground contours...
For wide open spaces the RFM is great and works real well. I found the cut to be real good and if I were just mowing open lawn, would have no problem owning another RFM. I got rid of mine because it did not work well for my needs that involved cutting close and around a lot of things.
Also get the widest RFM you can live with. Makes cutting close to things a lot easier, as you can keep the tractor farther away...
Good for backing up under something like pine branches maybe, but not good for backing up to a ditch, because the rear wheels fall in and the mower scalps... Maybe with a hydraulic top link this might be avoided(with constant adjustment), but with my manual top link my hopes to be able to back up to a ditch were trashed by the flex designed into the linkage that is necessary for the mower to follow the ground contours...
For wide open spaces the RFM is great and works real well. I found the cut to be real good and if I were just mowing open lawn, would have no problem owning another RFM. I got rid of mine because it did not work well for my needs that involved cutting close and around a lot of things.
Also get the widest RFM you can live with. Makes cutting close to things a lot easier, as you can keep the tractor farther away...
ronjhall
Super Star Member
There are several thread on MMM & RMM. Here is one from a few years ago. Click Here
I have a MMM. I find that it is as easy a any 3PH attachment to install and remove. One benefit of a 72" MMM for the <font color="orange"> Kubota </font> B27-2910 & 7800 line of tractors is that there are caster wheel on four corners. This allow for easy movement of mower on a hard flat surface.
I have a MMM. I find that it is as easy a any 3PH attachment to install and remove. One benefit of a 72" MMM for the <font color="orange"> Kubota </font> B27-2910 & 7800 line of tractors is that there are caster wheel on four corners. This allow for easy movement of mower on a hard flat surface.
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
I too prefer the mid-mount, saves wear and tear on my neck. And it's better for trimming up close to the right and left edges of the deck. Disadvantage in corners though. You can reverse a rear mount into places a mid mount can't get.
Mid mounts driven by a mid-PTO can usually be left on in most circumstances. The one I had was rear PTO driven, and had to be removed if/when I needed the rear PTO for something else. Simple procedure though; you simply drop it on the ground, disconnect the attachment points. Drive forward, right over the top (quarter inch steel plate). Installation obviously in reverse. Took me about 10 minutes to dismount, 20 to remount - less if I had a helper.
//greg//
Mid mounts driven by a mid-PTO can usually be left on in most circumstances. The one I had was rear PTO driven, and had to be removed if/when I needed the rear PTO for something else. Simple procedure though; you simply drop it on the ground, disconnect the attachment points. Drive forward, right over the top (quarter inch steel plate). Installation obviously in reverse. Took me about 10 minutes to dismount, 20 to remount - less if I had a helper.
//greg//
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2001
- Messages
- 23,144
- Location
- Bethel, Vermont
- Tractor
- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
I use a rear mower. Never used a mid-mower, but since the mid-mower is dedicated to a specific tractor or model of tractor, I doubt if I ever do (unless I buy a machine the already has one installed).
With a rear mower, you can back down slopes or under branches. For me, this is a significant advantage.
However, although I can get right next to a fence or the house, I probably do a bit more trim work then a person using a mid mower would have to do.
As far as watching the mower, once I make those passes closest to the house, outbuilding and fences, I rarely have to look back (unless I'm backing up, of course).
Rear mowers (Finishing or Grooming Mower is the proper terminology) are quite a bit cheaper then mid-mount mowers, by the way...
And, Henro makes a good point...get as wide a mower as you can (and your tractor can lift). I'm using a 60" mower (owned before i got my 790). I could use a 72" model with no problems...but I don't expect to replace my current mower this year.
With a rear mower, you can back down slopes or under branches. For me, this is a significant advantage.
However, although I can get right next to a fence or the house, I probably do a bit more trim work then a person using a mid mower would have to do.
As far as watching the mower, once I make those passes closest to the house, outbuilding and fences, I rarely have to look back (unless I'm backing up, of course).
Rear mowers (Finishing or Grooming Mower is the proper terminology) are quite a bit cheaper then mid-mount mowers, by the way...
And, Henro makes a good point...get as wide a mower as you can (and your tractor can lift). I'm using a 60" mower (owned before i got my 790). I could use a 72" model with no problems...but I don't expect to replace my current mower this year.
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( the mid-mower is dedicated to a specific tractor or model of tractor)</font>
True only in the case of some front PTO driven MMM models, and usually only then because of the hangars. Every rear PTO driven MMM model I've seen could be considered a "universal", in the under 45hp category
//greg//
True only in the case of some front PTO driven MMM models, and usually only then because of the hangars. Every rear PTO driven MMM model I've seen could be considered a "universal", in the under 45hp category
//greg//
DK35vince
Super Member
DK35vince
Super Member
BER
Bronze Member
Albald1,
I have used a 72" MMM for 3 seasons and describe it like having a lawn tractor on seriods. It is really sweet for mowing most grasses under 1 ft. It was a problem when I got in some soft hidden mud one spring. I could not raise the MMM deck high enough to get the wheels out of the mud. I had to get my truck and pull it out. I can mount the MMM on my tractor in under 30 min on a bad day, and remove in about 10 min by pulling 10 pins and rolling it out the side.
I have used a 72" MMM for 3 seasons and describe it like having a lawn tractor on seriods. It is really sweet for mowing most grasses under 1 ft. It was a problem when I got in some soft hidden mud one spring. I could not raise the MMM deck high enough to get the wheels out of the mud. I had to get my truck and pull it out. I can mount the MMM on my tractor in under 30 min on a bad day, and remove in about 10 min by pulling 10 pins and rolling it out the side.
