More tractor questions.

[WHMOBX]

I am getting close to my new tractor purchase, and I've got a few questions that I could use some help with. I'm sure they have been asked before so, sorry if they are a little redundant.
I was wondering about the pros and cons of a mid-mount mower. How much of a bother are they when doing loader work, when removing etc? I currently use a rear discharge finish mower and really have no problems except with the swing out factor when turning. It cuts great and leaves no clumps or rows unless I let it get super high.
The next question would be in regards to a QA 16la loader. Can the loader be removed from the tractor and reinstalled without too much difficultly? I am going from a two tractor situation in which one was set up for mowing only with out a loader sticking out in front of you. I'm sure it is something I can get used to but I had to ask. Also, I would love to use a grapple bucket or have a grapple attachment on my bucket. Could my dealer install the extra spool, piston and hoses?
Last question (for now) is, does anyone know if NH will extend the "No Interest" deal into December and if not, do you know what will replace it if anything?
Thanks in advance to all help that you all can offer.Billy

 

[TCBoomer]

MMM are a piece of cake to R&R IMO, and you'd be better off to remove it when using the FEL for any dirt work or operating in rough terrain. One advantage of the MMM is being able to mow in tight places. Like around trees, foundations, etc. If you have wide open areas, probably not much advantage. I still prefer the MMM over the rear mount ones and I mow 2.5 acres of lawn.

You mention a 16LA FEL, so I gather your looking at a class III tractor. If so, the height of the tractor might allow the MMM to be removed without raising the front end. On my old TC21D I had to raise the front end using the FEL, to remove the mower. On my new TC24DA, I can roll it out without raising the front end.

I have no experience with the QA set up & attachments other than the knowledge that the intended purpose is just what it's called...quick attach. If you talking about removing the complete FEL, that too is supposed to be an easy task and no tools required. I can't comment about that, since I haven't removed my 12LA yet. I saw a QA at the dealer and it appears that all you do is release a couple of levers and off the bucket comes, no tools needed. I'm sure the guys that have it will respond here. The dealer should be able to install the grapple set up too.

As far as the 0%, my dealer said it would end by the end of this month. But with the new year and new models coming out, maybe they will continue another month. Possibly one of the dealers that post here will comment.

Good luck

 

[Casimir]

I can't comment on the MMM, since I use a separate riding mower for the finished lawn. However, I have the 14LA loader on my TC33DA, with the front Quick Attach. I haven't removed the whole FEL, but I have started dropping the bucket off the QT when I am bushhogging in known territory. I leave the bucket on if I am bushhogging unknown areas, as a warning against stumps or other immovable objects that I don't want to mow over.

Without the bucket attached, you have better visibility, and at least 18 inches more clearance in front -- if necessary, you can raise the loader arms vertically to let you get the front of the tractor close to obstacles. Without the bucket attached, there is not as much weight to make the rig topheavy.

Switching between the regular bucket, pallet forks and Grapple bucket is easy -- raise two levers right behind the bucket and connect or disconnect the hydraulic lines for the grapple. Slip the frame out of the first attachment and into the second attachment and lower the levers. Takes less than 5 minutes to change.

I would recommend buying the grapple through your tractor dealer and having them install it. They will install the diverter valve and hydraulic lines. I chose to have the grapple mounted on a second bucket, rather than having to take the grapple off the bucket if it isn't needed or gets in the way for the job at hand. Also makes switching between them a breeze. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif If you would like to look at my setup, check the thread called "Traded Up!"

Good luck on your purchase. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[WHMOBX]

Thanks guys, for your input. I hope to get to the dealer tomorrow to check out some tractors. My longer term goal would be to have a zero turn mower for the finish cutting, so maybe I will stick with the 3 pt finish mower for now (to save some bucks). The idea about removing the bucket when bush hogging/cutting makes good sense. A lot of decisions to make. Thanks again, Billy.

 

[jinman]

Billy, the 16LA FEL is very easy to install and remove. I did a complete pictoral about the steps required a few months after buying my tractor. Here's a link to that post back in 2002.
Detaching/Reattaching 16LA

If you follow the instructions in the Loader Owner's Manual for the 16LA, you will have no problem. The most important things are to keep the loader and tractor on level ground. Also, I found a block of wood or plywood on the ground would keep the "kickstand" from digging in and causing a problem. I can remove and install my 16LA in less than 5 minutes. The thing that takes the longest is putting the kickstand down because I've replaced the pins with threaded bolts.

The only comment I can make about MMM vs RFM is that the RFM is interchangeable between brands of tractors but the MMM is not. Because of that and the special mounting, the MMMs are also much more expensive.

Good luck with your purchase. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[AndyG]

If I had to use the mower a lot I would prefer the belly mount to the rear mount. With the belly mount you can easily see both sides of the mower by simply looking down. With a rear mower you always have to look back which can lead to a tired neck. Don't worry about removing the entire loader... its easy. Just follow the steps in the book. Remember that stoppin the engine and relieving all of the pressure in the hoses (by moving the joystik in all directions) will make hooking them up much easier.