Moving a Pole Barn

[twabscs]

Hi All,

It's a long story but I have access to a free pole barn, if I want to move it. I'm going to be putting up quite a bit of hay this year and need something for hay storage. The attached pictures are of the free barn. It is around 30x50, 14-16 high, and I say is around 15-20 years old.

The barn is about 15 miles from my haying property and the question is - Would it be worth the effort to take this barn down and put it up at my place. A second question would be how to handle the "poles". Should I just cut them off at ground level and replace them or is there a way to get them easily out of the ground.

Thanks,

 

[twabscs]

Inside picture 1

 

[twabscs]

Inside picture 2.

 

[twabscs]

Here's the back view. The roof looks to be in very good shape. There are sliding doors on both ends.

 

[RMulkey]

Tom,

It is definitely worth taking down the free barn. The construction looks pretty simple and beams and trusses look like they are ok. You should be able to get the poles out of the ground by lifting them out with your tractors 3PH. Your BIO shows that you have a TC40 which should have more than enough lifting strength to pull the poles as long as they are not in cement. Dill a hole in each pole near the ground and bolt a chain to them and lift them out using the 3PH. You should remove any implements and attach a bar across the lower arms of the 3PH. Attach the chain to the center of the bar for side to side balance.

Good luck .
-Roger

 

[twabscs]

Roger,

Thanks for the info and encouragement. I don't think the poles are in cement, but I'll check this weekend to be sure. You're scaring me a bit with the 3 Pt hitch idea. I've pulled deep fence posts with my FEL and that was nearly impossible.

The TC40D will soon be a TN75 or TL90 but it may be after I move the barn.

Thanks,

 

[Junkman]

I am by far not the pole barn expert, but I can give you some insight from other posts here. From what I have read, the nails that are used are a ring shank nail and they don't come out very easily. Given this, a chain saw might be necessary to cut things apart. I would strip the siding and roof and then attack the rest of it. Putting it back together might be easier if you were to make it smaller in size because of the dismantling process is going to take its toll on some of the pieces. I would try to dig the poles out with a backhoe after all the rest of the structure is down. Then you will also have to figure out how long it is going to take to do this project and what your time is worth. Sometimes something for free isn't worth the effort to get it. This is a determination that you will have to make based on your value of your time. I am retired, so I waste a lot of time that I wouldn't have when I was working. Over all, I see it as doable, but at what cost is the big question that only you can answer....

 

[twabscs]

Junkman,

Thanks for the reply. I agree that I have to determine how much my time is worth before taking on this "free" project. My times worth a little, but my 15-year-old son's time is mostly free (especially if he's learning something). It would be one of our father/son projects this year along with square baling 80 acres.

I was really just wondering if anyone had done something like this before to see what they thought, etc. I'll check out the the nails this weekend as well.

Thanks,

 

[beenthere]

For jacking out the posts, you likely can throw a chain around them and not run the risk of splitting them by drilling a hole through the middle to gain an anchor point. Also, I think you will find that there is more lift with the 3pt than with the FEL. At least there is with my tractor. The back hoe idea is a good one to consider, as well.

For the steel siding fasteners, consider (lots of work, but neat) using a sawzall type saw to go in between the siding and the wood framing and saw the nails off. That will reduce the damage to the siding, but will leave the old shanks in the wood to have to avoid if later resizing.

After the posts are pulled out, I would (if they are treated) consider turning them end for end, and putting them in upside down. That will put a good treated end in the ground, assuming the ground end is pretty free of decay. If any decay present, replace the post.

Looks like a great shed, and hope it all works out for you.

 

[rambler]

I assume everyone sees the danger of lifting the poles with the 3-point - when it comes out, over it goes. It will work fine, but _you_ need to be in total control of leaning them the right way......

At 20 years, they probably have been in the ground for as long as they should be. You could consider cutting them off, & pouring a concrete foundation, mount the poles on top of the concrete & you will have no rot.

One option of many.

--->Paul