Moving stackable valves

[Zoombah]

I recently purchased a used TN65D that has 3 valves on the rear two of which are operated by the joystick. I'm going to add a loader. The NH dealer I've spoken with about adding a loader says they can run hoses to the rear of the tractor. They say the alternative --- adding mid-valves--- is expensive. The thing I'm wondering is whether two of the rear valves I already have can be moved to a mid-mount position rather than buy new valves for the mid location. I think I'd rather have a mid-mount valve location rather than have four hoses running full length underneath the tractor.

What do you folks think? The TN65D is my first real tractor....looking for some guidance please.

 

[Zoombah]

I recently purchased a used TN65D that has 3 valves on the rear two of which are operated by the joystick. I'm going to add a loader. The NH dealer I've spoken with about adding a loader says they can run hoses to the rear of the tractor. They say the alternative --- adding mid-valves--- is expensive. The thing I'm wondering is whether two of the rear valves I already have can be moved to a mid-mount position rather than buy new valves for the mid location. I think I'd rather have a mid-mount valve location rather than have four hoses running full length underneath the tractor.

What do you folks think? The TN65D is my first real tractor....looking for some guidance please.

 

[Soundguy]

It's very likely that your tn65 uses the same valve packs that my 7610s does. I just had to have the spool pack on my 2 rear valves replaced.... to the tune of 700$ just for the spool packs.. not including the QD section.

In any case, the spool pack sets atop the qd connector. The whole shebang is just attached to a bracket with 4 cap screws.. that bracket is then attached to the lift cover with ? 2 of the lift cover bolts. There is a large hyd pressure hose to it, as well as the return hose, which on mine, is just 'Teed' to the fill/tank line.

Mine also has a pilot line from the back of the valve assembly running to somewhere under my hyd cover.

doesn't look like it would be too hard to just move the brackets and run new lines.. of course the pressure and tank lines are speacialized 'banjo' bolt type fittings.. not regular hyd lines.

I've seen many loaders plumbed off the rear hyds.. just need to take a bit of care with the routing of the lines... those tractors have so many other important lines under the tractor that will disanble it if one comes loose that 4 more shouldn't hurt.. just find good places to tuck them and then use zip ties ever foot, or 6" if you are really worried.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

It's very likely that your tn65 uses the same valve packs that my 7610s does. I just had to have the spool pack on my 2 rear valves replaced.... to the tune of 700$ just for the spool packs.. not including the QD section.

In any case, the spool pack sets atop the qd connector. The whole shebang is just attached to a bracket with 4 cap screws.. that bracket is then attached to the lift cover with ? 2 of the lift cover bolts. There is a large hyd pressure hose to it, as well as the return hose, which on mine, is just 'Teed' to the fill/tank line.

Mine also has a pilot line from the back of the valve assembly running to somewhere under my hyd cover.

doesn't look like it would be too hard to just move the brackets and run new lines.. of course the pressure and tank lines are speacialized 'banjo' bolt type fittings.. not regular hyd lines.

I've seen many loaders plumbed off the rear hyds.. just need to take a bit of care with the routing of the lines... those tractors have so many other important lines under the tractor that will disanble it if one comes loose that 4 more shouldn't hurt.. just find good places to tuck them and then use zip ties ever foot, or 6" if you are really worried.

Soundguy

 

[Zoombah]

Thanks Soundguy. Earlier today I discussed this with local NH Service Mgr. who is former mechanic. He said it could be done for less cost than adding new mid-mount valves but strongly hinted that connecting to the rear valves with custom made up hoses and 90 degree fittings was the way to go. I'm going to do that because it's an inexpensive and proven solution and I can always move the remotes at a late date if it don't work out to my liking.

Thanks again. My issue now is do I want the NH loader, a Rhino or a Bush Hog.

 

[Zoombah]

Thanks Soundguy. Earlier today I discussed this with local NH Service Mgr. who is former mechanic. He said it could be done for less cost than adding new mid-mount valves but strongly hinted that connecting to the rear valves with custom made up hoses and 90 degree fittings was the way to go. I'm going to do that because it's an inexpensive and proven solution and I can always move the remotes at a late date if it don't work out to my liking.

Thanks again. My issue now is do I want the NH loader, a Rhino or a Bush Hog.

 

[TN75Jason]

I had the same question last year when I added a BushHog M446 Loader to my TN75. What I ended up doing was getting the hard piping kit from the dealer (at a discount because they had it on the shelf and were planning to return it). This kit eliminates the disconnects at the rear and installs steel lines under the cab (or platform) and relocates the four quick disconnects to just behind the right step. Then, the loader lines just plug in there. It makes for a very clean piping job. Like you, I was concerned about routing the flex hoses around everywhere and junking up the rear area where you plug up to the remaining remote. When I priced the four flex hoses, it made it an easy decision to get the hard piping kit. Let me know if you have any questions about it if you decide to go that route.

 

[TN75Jason]

I had the same question last year when I added a BushHog M446 Loader to my TN75. What I ended up doing was getting the hard piping kit from the dealer (at a discount because they had it on the shelf and were planning to return it). This kit eliminates the disconnects at the rear and installs steel lines under the cab (or platform) and relocates the four quick disconnects to just behind the right step. Then, the loader lines just plug in there. It makes for a very clean piping job. Like you, I was concerned about routing the flex hoses around everywhere and junking up the rear area where you plug up to the remaining remote. When I priced the four flex hoses, it made it an easy decision to get the hard piping kit. Let me know if you have any questions about it if you decide to go that route.

 

[AndyMA]

My TN75D which has 4 rear valves, has 2 of them piped to under the steps for the NH loader. Of more interest to me is how you will connect up the loader controls to the rear valves if it wasn't set up that way from the factory. I assume NH must have a kit to do that.

Andy

 

[AndyMA]

My TN75D which has 4 rear valves, has 2 of them piped to under the steps for the NH loader. Of more interest to me is how you will connect up the loader controls to the rear valves if it wasn't set up that way from the factory. I assume NH must have a kit to do that.

Andy