MT18D spare part, ignition/CDI ?

[nme]

hi

seems the ignition on my MT18D is kind of faulty.
even if i pull the key, i hear a klicking sound (like relay) every few seconds or even more often.
if the clicking appears while driving, engine just turns of...

i took a picture of the engine block, i think the faulty part is the small black box in the upper half of the picture, clicking noises appear more often if i move the cables a little bit. does anyone know what this is or where i can get a replacement? there are no labels on it. it is kind of a blackbox.


thanks !!


ps: i tried to clean the connectors, but no success....

 

[mit]

clean the ground wire on the right bolt and the other end of it.you may get lucky.

 

[nme]

thanks i'll give it a try!
what other end are you talking about? the cable dissappears in the black box which is completely sealed/filled with epoxy resina...

 

[PILOON]

Moving cables (wire) suggests either internal break or bad connection which might be 1- bad ground (corrosion) 2- corrosion in a connector.

Seperate the wire bundles and then play (wiggle) the individual wire to determine which is the culprit. Might be bad ground or bad (corroded) connection.

The ignition switch itself could be the culprit.
Internally there would be contacts that are lubricated which may be all dried up causing a hang up in the wrong way.
One cure for sticky switches is to liberally spray WD-40 via the key slot.

Also WD-40 is safe way to clean/lubricate electrical connectors as it is non corrosive and non conducting. You simply spray and 'make and break the contact' a few times to clean up the the connections.

Prevention calls for application of dialectric grease (silicone based) on the contacts.
This is now generally available in most auto parts stores.

For grounding points you need to really clean the contact point (wire brush) and use starr lock washers to make good bonding.
Then smear a blob of dialectric grease to prevent corrosion.

The 'black box' is probably the voltage regulator (and might be pricy) so eliminate all other possibilities first.
Either way just replacing the 'box' may not be the answer as if was factory sealed it probably is not the problem.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[mit]

i meant the other end of the wire that is grounded to the right bolt holding the black box.

 

[nme]

i meant the other end of the wire that is grounded to the right bolt holding the black box.

ah OK, i will give it a try later this day, but as far as i have seen, the whole box is filled with glue or resina, so no other ends to check/fix

 

[nme]

ok, i had some time to take another look at the problem.
bad news first:
after cleaing the connectors and grounding i was not able to reproduce the cable-movement theory. still clicking but not more or less.

good news is, that i know where exactly the clicking is coming from.
it seems it is coming from a magnet valve which controls fuel flow, which explains why the engine stops if the cklicking appears.

picture 1 shows this magnet valve with 2 blue cables going into the valve.

picture 2 shows the cables at the top of the engine being connected to a white plug

picture 3 shows the 2 blue cables dissappearing into the black box.

i removed the white plug and connected a voltage meter which shows most of the time 0.09V but sometimes suddenly voltage rises to 12V and drops back to 0.09V after some seconds or parts of seconds.
moving the cables did not change this behavior...

after cleaning the connectors and stuff, i found a text on the black box:

TV-94 94.4

any ideas?

 

[nme]

FYI:

the part is called "Control Timer" an has Mitsubishi Part No. MM435745.
Price (new) is approx. GBP 75, EUR 95, $150

I found some in the US who has a used one für $70. I'll give it a try!