MT225S cold start question

[Phantom06]

Purchased my MT a few weeks ago. Now that it's getting colder, I had a few questions on cold weather starts. This is my first tractor so no prior experience with diesels.

The manual is very light on info. "start the engine after operating the cold start aid indicator sufficiently"

Given the above 'procedure', I'm hoping someone can give me some practical guidance.

1. How long should I keep the key turned to pre-heat the GPs in 20-degree temps?

2. With the key turned to pre-heat, should the GP element indicator on the dash remain lit up the entire time? On mine, the indicator lights up for a second then goes out. The rest of the panel does the same self-check as when the key is in the normal 'On' position. I'm adding this as a co-worker has an XJ and he says his indicator stays lit up the entire time he has the key turned to the cold start position

I've had the key to cold start for a long 5-second count. Tractor starts rough with a big belch of smoke. Settles to a smooth idle in about 5 seconds

We're coming into colder NH weather so I want to get the start procedure down. Tractor is in an unheated garage. I do not have any heaters (block, etc) installed yet

Thanks

 

[oosik]

It sound like you are following the correct procedure. The "internals" of your tractor should determine the ambient temperature and keep the GP's on long enough to ensure a safe startup.

When I start my tractor cold - run the throttle up to full, then back to just above idle. Turn the key to "glow plug" - wait for the little illuminated coil to go out - turn the key over to start.

Yes - it coughs, grunts, belches, blows grey smoke - runs just fine after about 4 to 5 second of the previous. The only "aide" on my Kubota - a battery tender.

If your GP indicator light only stays on a second - it's not really that cold outside.

 

[Bobrown14]

Sometimes I turn the key on let the glow plug light go on then off and do it a 2nd time right away then crank the engine. But yeah wait for the coil light to go out before start up.

 

[Avenger]

(I'm sorry for the long post. As many of you know, I went down this road last winter. Check my YT channel for more info)

A few things here. First, like oosik stated, you're doing everything correctly. Turn the key on, wait for the light to go out, turn the key to start.

However,

There are things you can do to eliminate extra wear and tear, and reduce those cold starts.

First, lets take a look at what the computer is doing inside your engine before startup. The computer determines how long to run the glow plugs based on the coolant temp. If its cold, it runs them longer. If the coolant is warm (like on a 70 degree day, or after the tractor has run for a while) it barely fires the glow plugs if at all. The glow plugs warm the air inside the cylinders to assist in the initial compression ignition. Diesels don't have spark plugs like a gas motor. They relay on compression to create enough heat to combust the fuel. When the cylinder is cold, there simply is not enough heat. You can cycle the glow plugs a few times, to get the cylinders warmer. Note that the glow plugs are only active if the light is illuminated on the dash.

So, what we can do? Engine block heaters.

Now, to some, this is simply silly talk. Why would anyone want to add an engine heater if the engine has a heater built in that is computer controlled? Because the glow plugs only warm the air, for a very short period of time, to prevent the glow plugs from wearing out too quickly. There are other aspects of the engine that will benefit from being warmed besides the combustion cylinders. Like the oil.

There are three main types of engine block heaters

1) A lower radiator hose heater, that heats the coolant up and though the magic of convection, cycles the coolant though the engine... and radiator. Radiators are designed to cool the coolant, but the heater does have a marked effect on the engine block. The warmer coolant flows, very slowly, though the water jackets that surround the cylinders, thus warming them.

2) A magnetic oil pan heater. These are also sometimes pads that stick on. I haven't had any success with the pads, the one I tried wouldn't stick. I cleaned and cleaned the oil and dirt off the oil pan, but it never did stick. Your mileage may vary. But the magnetic version works, and works well. It simply sticks to the oil pan and warms the oil. Once the tractor is running, simply remove the magnet. However, on these tractors (and many like them) the oil pan is split. So one side will get warm while the other side is not. Is this a big deal? Not really. The oil is warming. Why do we need to warm the oil? Warming the oil is necessary before cold start to make sure its not too viscous. This aids in the flow of the oil to lubricate the necessary moving parts in the engine at startup quicker. Be sure to be running the correct weight of oil for the temperature your in. This is probably more important. The magnetic heater also aids in warming the block, as heat rises.

3) Freeze Plug Heater. These little heaters replace a freeze plug on the side of the engine block. They are probably the most efficient form of engine heater, as they heat the coolant directly next to the cylinder walls. No cycling of the water is necessary. These types of heaters are not difficult to install, however, getting to the freeze plugs may mean removing parts of the engine temporarily, which could make for a longer install.

With these heaters, your cold starts will almost go away. However, with the heaters that warm the coolant, you will notice the glow plugs not firing for very long. This is because of that computer monitoring the coolant temps. Simply cycle the glow plugs a few times. There is no magic bullet to prevent all cold starts. I plug my tractor into a lower radiator hose heater, a magnetic block heater, and a battery tender every time I park in the winter. When I start my tractor cold, I cycle the glow plugs a few times, and then turn it over. Even in the freezing depths winter, the tractor fires right up.

After startup, let your engine idle for a few minutes, then crank 'er up to about 1500RPM for several minutes, like 30, to make sure the engine is warm before doing work.

 

[Avenger]

2. With the key turned to pre-heat, should the GP element indicator on the dash remain lit up the entire time? On mine, the indicator lights up for a second then goes out. The rest of the panel does the same self-check as when the key is in the normal 'On' position. I'm adding this as a co-worker has an XJ and he says his indicator stays lit up the entire time he has the key turned to the cold start position

On some tractors this is true. Turning the ignition to the left will activate the glow plugs as long as you hold it. On others, like yours and mine, its the same as turning the key to the 'on' position. The glow plugs are only active for a short period of time.

 

[oosik]

I've only ever used a lower radiator hose heater. That was when we lived in Alaska. And even then, only until I built a heated garage. Here in the Spokane area it seldom gets that cold. AND if it does - I have to be convinced that it's really necessary to be outside, in the first place.

The last two years I never had to plow my mile long gravel driveway. Just not enough snow and it would be melting the day afterwards. We haven't really had "normal" winter snows for quite a few years.

 

[Avenger]

Yeah, the winters here have been more mild in recent years. And probably a bit milder in southern Spokane area, in the lower altitudes. Where I'm at, we typically get about 2 feet of standing snow (currently about 4 inches), and it stays until March/April. Temps drop into the teens on average starting about January. Living in the mountains of Northern Spokane area, I have to plow the driveway, because if I dont, then I will slide, mostly often sideways, to the bottom. And getting up? Not happening.

 

[oosik]

Substantial local weather differences. I live 25 miles due SW of Spokane. I have exactly 1/2" of snow. I don't even consider plowing until I get 8" on the ground and it's still snowing. Not even a problem getting out with the Power Wagon( Taco Wagon ). My driveway is a mile long - gravel.

The biggest danger in these parts. Drive out to the county road. County road has not been plowed yet. Folks tend to drive right down the center. Just LOADS of fun .............

 

[Cycledude]

As others have said the glow plugs on the newer LS tractors are mostly controlled by the computer brainbox or whatever ever it’s called. When I turn on the key the glow plug light stays on varying amounts of time depending on temperature, on mine the glow plug light seems to stay on for about 10 seconds when it’s cold out, if the engine is warm the glow plug indicator light only comes on for about 1 second and I highly doubt the glow plugs get heated at all it’s just an indicator that the circuit should work if needed.
I do have a block heater and yesterday it was 20 degrees so I plugged it in for a couple hours before starting to plow my yard, the glow plug indicator only stayed on for about 1 second and the tractor started instantly.
My tractors are usually stored inside a building that’s not heated.

 

[jaydee325]

According to the MT225S owners manual you put the key switch in the On position. Then,
Wait until the cold start aid indicator is turned off. (for about 10 seconds). Sounds like there is a timed relay controlling the glow plugs or intake heater (as applicable).

This matches my R3039H as it takes about 10 seconds for the glow plugs to cycle. In really cold weather, I give it two cycles of glow plug heating and it does make a difference.