MTD Pro ZTR PTO Drive Questions

[Riddler]

I have a MTD commercial grade ZTR with 25HP Kohler Command engine and 60" deck.

The drive belt from the PTO clutch to the deck broke. It thought that the belt that broke was a standard A-type belt, but the replacement A-type belt that I purchased rides pretty low in the clutch pulley. Should the backside of the belt be closer to being level with the outside diameter of the pulley, or is it proper for the belt to "seat" some distance (e.g., 3/8" or 1/2") from the outside diameter of the pulley?

The second question I have concerns the drive clutch. With the drive belt off and the clutch engagement switch in "off" position, should I expect to encounter any resistance when I spin the drive pulley with my hand? I've always assumed that if the clutch is not engaged, the drive pulley (which is connected directly to the clutch) should be free to spin freely. On my unit, I can turn the pulley by hand, but there is clearly some friction (presumably in the clutch) that I have to overcome. I suppose I can run the engine with the clutch engagement switch in "off" position and a drive belt installed to see if the pulley gets hot sitting still, but it would help to know how the clutch and drive pulley should react when spun by hand at rest with the engine off and the drive belt removed. Thanks.

 

[OldMachinist]

The belt that broke was likely a B section belt that had worn down to look like a A section or someone put the wrong belt on before. The parts book I have for the MTD Pro 2560 says the belt is B X 84.2" long, MTD part #01005012. A Gates B81 would work it has a outer circle of 84".
I uploaded the parts manual here MMZ2554-2560.PDF

The PTO clutch should have resistance when the power is off. It acts a brake to stop the blades.

 

[Riddler]

The belt that broke was likely a B section belt that had worn down to look like a A section or someone put the wrong belt on before. The parts book I have for the MTD Pro 2560 says the belt is B X 84.2" long, MTD part #01005012. A Gates B81 would work it has a outer circle of 84".
I uploaded the parts manual here MMZ2554-2560.PDF

The PTO clutch should have resistance when the power is off. It acts a brake to stop the blades.

That's awesome. Thanks so much.

 

[ColvinsPS]

I see you must have the same mower as me. I just recently got a mmz 2560 and i had to replace the hydro gear gaskets as they were leaking really bad.

I was wondering if you or anyone else out there reading would know of the proper bleeding procedure for this mower/hydro gear since i can't figure it out?

I have tried keeping the wheels off the ground and running it for 15 minutes while working the levers but it isn't working. The pumps and motors worked fine before i replaced the gaskets and i did not mess with anything internally.

Thanks for reading and any help is appreciated!

 

[JTKub]

I was wondering if you or anyone else out there reading would know of the proper bleeding procedure for this mower/hydro gear since i can't figure it out?

You need to pull the bypass rods out to do a purge. Basically pull the rod for each side, start engine and work the forward/reverse controls a few times. Stop engine. Push rods back in and you should be good to go.

Joel

 

[alvin marshall]

I need manual for tranny repair on ztr do you have a site? Also I have an axle shaft broken, can it be welded? Thanks

 

[OldMachinist]

I know that your mower is basicly the MTD version of the Cub Cadet Tank and the left transmission part number is 918-3218B but I haven't been able to cross that to a transmission manufacturers number. The new Tank uses a HydroGear pump and a Parker drive motor(transmission).
Is there a tag on it with a name and model number.

 

[rountree]

I have a MTD Pro mmz 2560 which wore through two pto drive belts last summer. Over the winter I discovered that the idler arm is pushing the belt retaining stud against the inside face of the belt. It is not obvious when it is not running, but as soon as the clutch is engaged, the idler jumps over to the now moving belt far enough for the stud to rub it.

The only possible fix which occurs to me is replacing the extension spring. Anyone have other ideas?

Thanks.