Muffler & Exhaust PICS - Ford / New Holland 1520

[brewdog]

The old vertical exhaust was always getting bent over from low hanging limbs. I broke it off twice, plus it's so annoying having to look around it all the time.

I went to Advanced Auto and bought a muffler a couple 90's and welded it together. Works great so far and is out of the way. I got the idea from another guy here that had mentioned he did a similar thing but didn't have a front loader.

As you can see from the pictures I was able to squeeze the thin muffler between the body panel and the FEL loader frame. So far this has worked out well.

 

[hudr]

Not knocking your work (it looks great!) but does it cover up any service access? Have you had any problems w/ heat that close to the paint? I have dabbled w/ turning the exhaust down on my 5005 Mahindra, but can't find a route that doesn't block an already hard to access service point. Plus my exh. manifold points up so I would have to stuff a 180 somewhere. My FEL already makes it hard enough to get to the dipstick, oil filter and air filter. But after looking at your setup, I wonder what a couple of stainless exhaust clamps would do for access? Just wait for it to cool down (problable 2 brews worth) then slip off the muffler/pipe assy and get to work. Hmmmmmm....

 

[Paddy]

Could you just install the manafold up-side-down?

 

[jimmysisson]

Brew, I was thinking of doing that on my 2120, thanks for the pix. How did you decide what muffler to use? Is it quieter at all?
Jim

 

[hudr]

I haven't looked at the manifold and done any measuring to see if it is reversible. Seems I have seen that done on some old Ford 292/312 V8s. Don't know if it will work in this situation. Something to think about though.

 

[brewdog]

Hudr,

It really doesn't cover up my service access. The white panel slips out vertically with a slot not a hole for the exhaust pipe where it comes through. I've had no problem with vibration or heat on the paint. The engine is bolted to the casting for the tranny and rear end. No vibes at all. My oil dip stick is on the opposite side.

On the Shibura engine, there are 4 bolts that hold the exhaust pipe on where it comes out through the body work.

I go by the 2 brew cool down method too.

 

[brewdog]

Paddy, couldn't just do that. There is a 4 bolt round hole casting flange just behind the white panel point outward or I would of doe something like that. Great insight.

 

[brewdog]

Jimmysisson,

There was basically three things that led me to this muffler.

1. Engine out / muffler inlet line diameter.
2. Thickness of the muffler, wanted something thin to slip in between the FEL frame and the body panel.
3. Muffler was baffled with sheet metal and not packed with glass. I didn't want anything that would build up backpressure from the exhaust residue.

I went to autozone and sourced a full flow muffler that had the correct inside diameter to weld to the original pipe that poked through the hole. Its the rusty one in the picture. The O.D. of that line needed to slip into the I.D. of the muffler inlet so I could weld it. That's how I decided. It does help quite a lot for noise and line of sight. I like having my windsheild view unobstructed. The picture doesn't show it, but I have over 1" of clearance between the muffler and paint. I like it and it doesn't interfere with removing the FEL.

I have 19 bucks in the muffler, and 5 bucks each in the two bends and one muffler clamp.

Have a great day.

 

[Bluedog2]

Hello Brewdog I am new to this site--as a matter of fact, I joined up just to see if anyone else was having a problem with the exhaust on New Holland tractors (I have a 1510 with FEL) My tractor has the muffler under the hood and the exhaust exits on left just above front axle--which gives me a constant exhaust cloud to drive into. I would like to know how far back you ran your exhaust pipe behind the muffler on your tractor. I can't see your pics because I'm sure my comp has blocked them and I'm not that savvy. (I'd rather have a wrench in my hand than a keyboard) Thanks Bluedog2