silvereagle68
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I gota remove my head on my 69 4500 ford tractor any one have any tips on removing the muffler?
muffler removal from manifold
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sweettractors
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Air chisel? Ken Sweet
I have seen this work on an Allis Chalmers B, not on a Ford, so your mileage may vary.
1. Get a socket that is a very tight fit for each bolt (the bolts might be smaller than usual due to rust). It may be a metric or odd x/32 size fits better, and each one may be different.
2. Get a propane, mapp, or acetylene torch, a ballpeen hammer, and penetrating fluid.
3. Heat a bolt head until it glows a dull red.
4. Rap it sharpish with the hammer (don't wail on it hard enough to break something, but hard enough to break up a bit of the rust...probably about the same as you'd use on a small nail).
5. Spray with penetrating oil. If it flares into flame, blow it out.
6. Apply socket (with light raps of the hammer if needed to drive it on) and attach wrench.
7. VERY IMPORTANT: start moving in short back and forth movements, do not just try to go all the way out in one go or throw a pipe on it, you'll just twist the bolt head off.
8. Keep applying oil and moving back and forth. You will probably have to "work" for every bit of gain you get in coming off. Change direction every time it starts turning difficult, don't just turn harder.
I may have 4 and 5 reversed, but I am sure any of the other wrench hands on here know this method also.
Hope that helps...
1. Get a socket that is a very tight fit for each bolt (the bolts might be smaller than usual due to rust). It may be a metric or odd x/32 size fits better, and each one may be different.
2. Get a propane, mapp, or acetylene torch, a ballpeen hammer, and penetrating fluid.
3. Heat a bolt head until it glows a dull red.
4. Rap it sharpish with the hammer (don't wail on it hard enough to break something, but hard enough to break up a bit of the rust...probably about the same as you'd use on a small nail).
5. Spray with penetrating oil. If it flares into flame, blow it out.
6. Apply socket (with light raps of the hammer if needed to drive it on) and attach wrench.
7. VERY IMPORTANT: start moving in short back and forth movements, do not just try to go all the way out in one go or throw a pipe on it, you'll just twist the bolt head off.
8. Keep applying oil and moving back and forth. You will probably have to "work" for every bit of gain you get in coming off. Change direction every time it starts turning difficult, don't just turn harder.
I may have 4 and 5 reversed, but I am sure any of the other wrench hands on here know this method also.
Hope that helps...
kthompson
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I think Gylford has good advice but I would apply the liquid wrench or what ever you use there as early on as possible even the day before to allow it to begin to break down the rust. If the muffler to manifold joint is where you can I would also apply it there. If you have impact wrench you can control reverse on that can do a good job vibrating the nuts loose also. Much like what he is talking about with a hammer.
Had left the page and nut splitter came to my mind. Not sure the exact design you are working with but if you need to removed rusted on nuts from studs or muffler clamp you may be much better off with nut splitter. You should end up with very little damage if any to the threads and then use die to clean up the threads on the studs if that is what you are working on. May not even need die, wire brush on the threads may be all needed.
Had left the page and nut splitter came to my mind. Not sure the exact design you are working with but if you need to removed rusted on nuts from studs or muffler clamp you may be much better off with nut splitter. You should end up with very little damage if any to the threads and then use die to clean up the threads on the studs if that is what you are working on. May not even need die, wire brush on the threads may be all needed.
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