Mule engine swap

[jwmorris]

Had a half shaft break on one of the mules down at the farm and a buddy of mine said another friend of ours had one with a blown engine sitting in a field. I wound up just getting a new half shaft but he picked up the mule for spare parts before they scrapped it.

I looked it over and decided it could be brought back to life. Started by hosing it off, removing the drive and making a simple fixture so I could locate the new engine in the right spot for the drive to still work.

 

[jaydee325]

My local Kawasaki dealer sells quite a few Mule replacement engines on eBay. These are a factory direct bolt in replacement. Might be an option for you.

 

[jwmorris]

The Diesel engines for these don’t seem to have a very good reputation haven’t seen any listed. The gas engines run around $2700.

 

[grsthegreat]

So sad they let it get in that shape.

 

[yanmars]

I got one at a low price as the owner was told it had a bad engine. Got it cheap enough that it still would have been a good buy with a replacement engine. As it turned out it was just an intake manifold gasket leak. Simple and cheap fix.

 

[jwmorris]

The taper the drive clutch bolts to is located on the OD by the flywheel.

So I found some suitable material to make an adapter.

Machined the two parts for a press fit.

Just under 7 tons To get them together.

Finish machined, drilled/tapped and broached to go from a 1 1/8” 5/16 key shaft and mount the converter.
I also added drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes every 120 deg front and rear for set screws and SHCS to ensure the outer ring can’t move on the inner hub.

 

[jwmorris]

Don’t need the starter hole but the factory steel engine plate is a good starting point to work off of.

I had thought about going dirt cheap and using a Predator engine or maybe a B&S but since the mid ‘80s, I have been a fan of Honda engines and picked up a GS690 for just under $1500. It’s not exactly a “drop in” but will fit.

 

[jwmorris]

Lots of in and out, log story short, the height is 1.375” higher than the original mounting point is the right elevation for the engine, will still be under the bed. The cross tube had to be notched, removed sections, inverted and welded back in.

Also, made my oil filter relocation/oil cooler block. Used the factory Honda seals at the block and -6 AN/Teflon for the rest.

 

[plastikosmd]

Nice fabrication

 

[jwmorris]

I got a little sloppy on the spacer plates, the outside, spots anyone could actually see look OK but the inside looks pretty bad. New plasma consumables ordered, it allows the engine to be removed without having to pull the crank hub. Went overboard on fasteners but I promise it will stay put.

The engine is spaced off the factory engine plate with 3 aluminum plates a 1/4” thick each.

Used -6 high flow AN fittings and Stainless steel/Teflon line to go from the engine, oil filter, oil cooler and back.

Blocks crooked but I transferred from the factory part, guess the outside of it isn’t square. No worry, this side is right up against the transmission.