I know where I can get a "new" MX5 for about $1300. It is about 2 yrs old but has never been sold. Of course it has the full warranty, but it is weathered some. They have touched up the paint etc... It doesnt have guards but I am thinking I might get them to throw some in as they really want to move it. Is this a great deal or just okay? I really dont want to spend this much, but might if it is a smoking deal. Know what I mean?
MX5 bushhog question
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B8FISH
Platinum Member
On the JD site they go for $2059.00 list--but that includes front and rear safety chains/shields.
AKfish
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There was a MX6 on ebay just last week that was just like new (think the guy said less than 20 hrs use). Anyway, it went for $1525.
Seems like $1,300 for a NIB MX5 ain't too bad a deal --- would be real hard to pass up if they throw in the chain guards.
I'd probably be reaching for my checkbook...
AKfish
Seems like $1,300 for a NIB MX5 ain't too bad a deal --- would be real hard to pass up if they throw in the chain guards.
I'd probably be reaching for my checkbook...
AKfish
jeffinsgf
Veteran Member
I paid 1300 for one with about 25 hours on it, 2 years ago. Yeah, that is a smoking deal.
Well I just talked to the salesman. The deal is this $1395 for the MX5 with no guards. Best he is willing to do. I asked him to email me a few pics as it is about an hour away. I will check it out and if it looks good, I may try and get it.
Before I do though, do any of you veterans think I could go with another brand and find a better buy for $1395?
Before I do though, do any of you veterans think I could go with another brand and find a better buy for $1395?
Z-Michigan
Veteran Member
Not for the same quality. MX5 is high quality, similar to Woods. I think other brands for that price would be more average quality.
I will say that I think you need to have guards on it, whether you buy from him, buy from someone else, or make some.
I will say that I think you need to have guards on it, whether you buy from him, buy from someone else, or make some.
deerchop
Member
I bought the MX-5 with my 3520 and it has no trouble at all with it as long as you run it at mowing speed. I am very pleased with it but it might be a little heavy if you don't have a FEL or some front weights.
I have a 3320 that I use with a MX6. I keep the loader on for front weight and it pulls it fine. I actually bought the MX6 for a 65 hp tractor but tried it on the 3320. I'm using it on the 3320 now because it is so much more manuverable, has better visability and e-hyro. Shifting gears on the big tractor is a pain.
If I'm going to mow ditches or get on any slopes I will use the big tractor just to make sure it doesn't get away from me. The 3 point hitch picks it up fine with the I-match and the pto power is sufficient. I may have problems in weeds 3 or 4 feet tall but it does fine in grass that is only a foot or two.
If I'm going to mow ditches or get on any slopes I will use the big tractor just to make sure it doesn't get away from me. The 3 point hitch picks it up fine with the I-match and the pto power is sufficient. I may have problems in weeds 3 or 4 feet tall but it does fine in grass that is only a foot or two.
B8FISH
Platinum Member
MX-5 on a 3320 w/300cx--no problems here.
JimParker
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I also have an MX-5 on a 3320 with 300CX loader to balance things out, and have no problems at all. It does 'lug down' a bit when I first turn on the PTO, but I've learned to cycle it on/off/on during startup, and it works very cleanly now. Cuts the grass/brush very well, maneuvers well, and does not seem to be "too much" for the tractor.
I *did* have to learn the hard way that you can't mow at a 90 degree angle down the terracing... I bent the metal braces when the tractor hit the level ground, the pivot on the 3PH maxed-out it's travel, and the MX-5 was still trying to keep the tractor's back wheels off the ground. Let's see... 2 four foot long, 1/4 inch wide pieces of steel (even painted green) versus a 2,900 lb tractor and 900 lb FEL -- no contest.
But of course this has nothing to do with the tractor/cutter combo -- more with the tractor/idiot-operating-it combo!
Anyone know the best way to straighten out those braces?I'm assuming I could just lay them flat on the ground and "tap gently" with a rubber mallet until I work the kinks out...
I *did* have to learn the hard way that you can't mow at a 90 degree angle down the terracing... I bent the metal braces when the tractor hit the level ground, the pivot on the 3PH maxed-out it's travel, and the MX-5 was still trying to keep the tractor's back wheels off the ground. Let's see... 2 four foot long, 1/4 inch wide pieces of steel (even painted green) versus a 2,900 lb tractor and 900 lb FEL -- no contest.
But of course this has nothing to do with the tractor/cutter combo -- more with the tractor/idiot-operating-it combo!Anyone know the best way to straighten out those braces?
I'm assuming I could just lay them flat on the ground and "tap gently" with a rubber mallet until I work the kinks out...
AKfish
Super Member
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I'll betcha those braces are at least 3/8" thick. If you've got a torch, you might be better served to heat them before you try to straighten them out.
Even a small propane torch (used to solder copper pipe, etc.) would help to coax those braces back into shape.
If you don't want to chip up your garage floor, a flat steel plate is a good surface to pound on or I've even used some scab 2x6's, etc. Sometimes I've broken up 2-3 pieces of wood before I'm done but it's better than making a mess of the concrete floor.
A small 2-3 lb sledge hammer will get you there faster than a rubber mallet and help with the small "tweaking" increments that you just "need" to finish!
And you'll get to drop into your local JD dealer and buy a spray can of JD "green"!
AKfish
Even a small propane torch (used to solder copper pipe, etc.) would help to coax those braces back into shape.
If you don't want to chip up your garage floor, a flat steel plate is a good surface to pound on or I've even used some scab 2x6's, etc. Sometimes I've broken up 2-3 pieces of wood before I'm done but it's better than making a mess of the concrete floor.
A small 2-3 lb sledge hammer will get you there faster than a rubber mallet and help with the small "tweaking" increments that you just "need" to finish!
And you'll get to drop into your local JD dealer and buy a spray can of JD "green"!
AKfish
Nathan_OR
Bronze Member
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- Jun 23, 2003
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Another 3320/MX5 combo here, no problem at all with blackberries, hawthorne, you name it. I always drop the RPMs to ~1500 before engaging the rear PTO, then ramp up to full PTO RPMs. If I engage at full PTO RPMs, it's not as smooth starting up.
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