My 2014 New Holland Boomer 33 review

[lolley]

Just completed 50 hour maintenance. It's enough time to learn some things about this tractor. I never had a tractor before, so perhaps some things are common knowledge to more experienced people.

When looking at what tractor to buy I made a spreadsheet of a bunch of brands and listed the data to be able to compare. Tough choice.

General:
1) I don't think I would want a smaller tractor. Hauling dirt or logs take time, a smaller bucket would haul less.
2) I thought I wanted less wide to drive between tight spots. It wants to tip over enough, wider probably helped me.
3) I use 4 wheel drive a lot. They said only use it to get unstuck, but I need it most of the time. Although this dry summer has allowed me to use it less.
4) Headlights are behind front bucket which makes them sort of useless.
5) 33 is not that powerful. It lugs out medium speed (3 speed hydrostatic) on some steep slopes. I was surprised, but overall it has enough power for me but its not impressive.
6) Traction is surprisingly bad for a machine with such a large rear tire.


Below is what I think are specific to New Holland or this model.

Positives:
1) This listed higher front end loader lift capacities. I like that. Wet dirt is heavy. I don't want less.
2) Seems built tough with thick steel plate. The transmission case is basically the frame which I do not like. This one has more steel plate to sort of make a frame than others seemed to have.
3) I probably give it medium duty abuse and it seems to be holding up. I don't lift loosely piled light weight bark like other brands seemed to advertise. That's too easy of a task. I lift logs, stumps, dirt, rocks, and broken concrete.
4) Controls seems easy to use. I don't have any big issues with the seating position or comfort. I could use a holder for a water bottle though. Would be nice to have a little glove box or something. I will probably make something.


Negatives:
1) New Holland does not help with issues, they refer you to a dealer. I didn't know that before I purchased, and it is super lame. Are other brands this way I wonder. What happens if the dealer is incompetent? I expected this with some of the other Foreign brands, not New Holland.
2) Hydraulic fittings of all sorts leak. Quick disconnects work their way loose when the hoses jerk a little when using the hydraulics. Pretty crap quality there. I still have not fixed all the leaks yet. It is stuff like this I wanted to avoid by buying new and buying a major brand.
3) I thought some other brands had larger front tires. I want that. Traction on wet ground on hills is bad. Small tires can sink into mud easier than large. I think this is a pretty big deal.
4) The roll cage rattles a lot and makes big noise. Bad design, and poor quality there. I will have to modify it some time.
5) I welded a lifting lug to the bucket to hook a chain to drag logs. It only had an edge across top of bucket to put a hook on, not a good method.
6) There are some switches on the dash board that I do not know what do, and some lighted symbols in the display. I guess I have to learn, so this could be my own stupidity, but the graphic symbol doesn't mean anything to me. I wish they had words and a symbol.

 

[gwstang]

Pretty good write up on the NH. No cup-holder? Dang, now I feel like I spent $18K on a Kubota cup-holder and the tractor just came with it.

Have you looked at Kens bolt on hooks? He is a vendor on here and has the hooks for the different type of front end loaders. Neat stuff on there.

Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Bolt-On>>

 

[fishheadbob]

Pretty good review.
"The transmission case is basically the frame." Seems to me that's pretty standard with all tractors.
"Would be nice to have a glove box." Actually a glove box is indispensable for tools, shear bolts, etc.. Try to find a metal box somewhere and bolt it on.
"They refer you to a dealer." Of course. When my car has a problem I don't call Tokyo.
"Traction is bad." Yep. Smaller tractors are lighter tractors. You need weight to pull, especially in moist or loose stuff. The weight gets the tire lugs down and biting in rather than staying on top. A change in tire size would be expensive and accomplish little.
"I welded a lifting lug onto the bucket" You pretty much have to do this. I don't know why hooks aren't standard on buckets as they all have them added by owners. Lawyers I suppose.

 

[Dewbie]

Talking about using 4wd alot..
I had a kubota l3200 and I had to leave it in 4wd otherwise I couldn't do anything. Only time I could take it out of 4wd is when I was on hard 100% level ground. I think with those small tractors you don't have much of a choice but to leave em in 4wd all the time which is what I did. After 3 years and 180+ hrs I traded it for a 75 hp tractor and honestly other than the smaller size while in tight spaces I don't miss anything about that small tractor

 

[TSO]

Just completed 50 hour maintenance. It's enough time to learn some things about this tractor. I never had a tractor before, so perhaps some things are common knowledge to more experienced people.

When looking at what tractor to buy I made a spreadsheet of a bunch of brands and listed the data to be able to compare. Tough choice.

General:
1) I don't think I would want a smaller tractor. Hauling dirt or logs take time, a smaller bucket would haul less.
2) I thought I wanted less wide to drive between tight spots. It wants to tip over enough, wider probably helped me.
3) I use 4 wheel drive a lot. They said only use it to get unstuck, but I need it most of the time. Although this dry summer has allowed me to use it less.
4) Headlights are behind front bucket which makes them sort of useless.
5) 33 is not that powerful. It lugs out medium speed (3 speed hydrostatic) on some steep slopes. I was surprised, but overall it has enough power for me but its not impressive.
6) Traction is surprisingly bad for a machine with such a large rear tire.

Below is what I think are specific to New Holland or this model.

Positives:
1) This listed higher front end loader lift capacities. I like that. Wet dirt is heavy. I don't want less.
2) Seems built tough with thick steel plate. The transmission case is basically the frame which I do not like. This one has more steel plate to sort of make a frame than others seemed to have.
3) I probably give it medium duty abuse and it seems to be holding up. I don't lift loosely piled light weight bark like other brands seemed to advertise. That's too easy of a task. I lift logs, stumps, dirt, rocks, and broken concrete.
4) Controls seems easy to use. I don't have any big issues with the seating position or comfort. I could use a holder for a water bottle though. Would be nice to have a little glove box or something. I will probably make something.

Negatives:
1) New Holland does not help with issues, they refer you to a dealer. I didn't know that before I purchased, and it is super lame. Are other brands this way I wonder. What happens if the dealer is incompetent? I expected this with some of the other Foreign brands, not New Holland.
2) Hydraulic fittings of all sorts leak. Quick disconnects work their way loose when the hoses jerk a little when using the hydraulics. Pretty crap quality there. I still have not fixed all the leaks yet. It is stuff like this I wanted to avoid by buying new and buying a major brand.
3) I thought some other brands had larger front tires. I want that. Traction on wet ground on hills is bad. Small tires can sink into mud easier than large. I think this is a pretty big deal.
4) The roll cage rattles a lot and makes big noise. Bad design, and poor quality there. I will have to modify it some time.
5) I welded a lifting lug to the bucket to hook a chain to drag logs. It only had an edge across top of bucket to put a hook on, not a good method.
6) There are some switches on the dash board that I do not know what do, and some lighted symbols in the display. I guess I have to learn, so this could be my own stupidity, but the graphic symbol doesn't mean anything to me. I wish they had words and a symbol.

Your tractor is made by LS in S Korea... New Holland buys them and sells them as their own. The only time you should need to contact the manufacturer is if the dealer isn't taking care of your issues ... Contact the dealer first.

Practically all tractor headlights become less efficient when using a loader... Snow plow trucks use aux headlights on their plows...same idea.

What part of the ROPS rattles?

The best way to add hooks on the top of pretty much every bucket from every Mfg would be to first weld on a reinforcement piece, then weld the hooks to that... Most bucket tops are thin.

I believe your tractor has tier4 emissions... Those buttons probably have something to do with that. You really should read up on your manual.

Consider the actual contact patch area of your tires when you think about traction ... These aren't dozers. As already pointed out, weight really comes into play.

Regarding 4wd... Just make sure you aren't making tight turns on dry or firm surfaces, especially with your loader carrying weight. That's a good way to damage the components.

Otherwise...enjoy your machine!

 

[lolley]

Thanks for the feedback. Being my first tractor, not sure what is normal and I do not know about where to find tractor resources all that well.

Your Kubota came with a cup holder, I am jealous.

I will try to find a place for a tool box. It's been so hot lately, I was thinking water more than tools.
My traction problem was not while towing. Empty bucket just trying to make it up a steep little slope. Ground was wet and I sunk in. I think tractor likes hard ground much better than soft, but around here it stays wet most of the time, except this summer. Other time I was on some wet rotten logs, and they are slippery.
I don't plan to change to larger front tires, but it looks like a performance upgrade on brands that have larger tires up front. My example, I was driving along happily until my front tires just sank to the axle instantly. I got close to a puddle where water runs out of the ground in the winter. It was a soft spot. I walked there with no problem, but the tractor is much heavier. It took me some time to work my way out. Differential lock is only on the rear tires.

ROPS has rattle where it hinges in the middle. It folds down and has some pins there to do that if needed. So the joint is loose so it can fold. I could bolt it up since I don't seem to have need to fold it. Or I could try and stick some rubber in there some how. It is quite annoying.

I will add another item:

Negative
7) Sometimes I turn the key and nothing happens. Sometimes it turns the starter a small amount that sounds like it could be weak battery, and other times it starts the engine like it should. I replaced battery with new, no change. I put ohm meter on the key switch and it seems to connect the wires like a switch is supposed to. I could not get it to fail so I think not switch. Easy items out. Still under warranty but I don't want to lose the use of my tractor right now for 2 weeks as they seem to take. I got suggestion the starter solenoid might not have moved to send power to the starter because it got stuck. Then it is unstuck when it starts. Could be solenoid. Loose wire seems unlikely when the tractor is parked and some times it starts and sometimes not. Loose wire might need motion to make it wiggle to lose and gain connection. I was afraid to turn it off the other day in case it got stuck in a bad spot. So I just ran it until I got back to where I planned to park it.

 

[redman135]

Just 2 comment. I used 80 and 140 hp 4x4 tractors and they stay in 4x4 full time unless driving up the road which is rare.
You say traction is poor. Do you rear tyres have liquid in them for extra weight? Both my tractors do and the difference is huge.

 

[GManBart]

Thanks for the feedback. Being my first tractor, not sure what is normal and I do not know about where to find tractor resources all that well.

My traction problem was not while towing. Empty bucket just trying to make it up a steep little slope. Ground was wet and I sunk in. I think tractor likes hard ground much better than soft, but around here it stays wet most of the time, except this summer. Other time I was on some wet rotten logs, and they are slippery.
I don't plan to change to larger front tires, but it looks like a performance upgrade on brands that have larger tires up front. My example, I was driving along happily until my front tires just sank to the axle instantly. I got close to a puddle where water runs out of the ground in the winter. It was a soft spot. I walked there with no problem, but the tractor is much heavier. It took me some time to work my way out. Differential lock is only on the rear tires.

Typically the Boomer/LS line has larger tires than similar models from other brands, but not always. From your description, I'm guessing your tractor has R4 Industrial tires. If so, they're doing exactly what would be expected from them. They will spin on almost anything wet, but they're very durable (don't cut or puncture easily) and they're better at supporting FEL weight loads. R1 tires will usually cruise right through areas that get R4s spinning on wet ground. Once you get into actual mud there is no comparison how much better R1s will be since they actually self-clean and R4s don't (they plug up with mud and turn into a slick). I have, and have had, machines with both tires, and like both of them for different tasks, but they definitely have limitations.

 

[lolley]

I do have the liquid in the rear tires. I had that from the start so cannot compare what it would be without it.

I do have the Industrial tires. Most tractors seemed to have that tire when I was looking. I was told the R1 tires would really tear up grass and whatever else they were driving on. I stayed with the Industrial tire they recommended. Maybe I should have went with the R1 tires. Right now it is very dry and it is working fine. I know when winter comes and it is always wet, I will probably have the trouble I had last winter. I wonder if they make a set of chains that I could use in the wet conditions.

I sort of thought with the backhoe installed, it has better traction. I tried both ways. Hanging on the back it must put more weight on those large rear tires. Maybe I had too much weight on the front before.

I guess I just do my best because I suspect I won't like the cost of different tires, and probably too heavy to swap a new tire and rim set without injuring myself. Like having a set of snow tires for the car to swap over in winter. I have a place I want to make a path through the woods, but it is downhill. So if I go down and cannot make it back up, that will be trouble. I was thinking to try and make a path not going straight down. Make a path on the side of the hill and try and make a less steep way down. Like logging roads in the mountains have switchbacks to make it on steep slopes. I will require some digging on the uphill side. Not sure I can do it, but maybe worth a try.

 

[GManBart]

I do have the liquid in the rear tires. I had that from the start so cannot compare what it would be without it.

I do have the Industrial tires. Most tractors seemed to have that tire when I was looking. I was told the R1 tires would really tear up grass and whatever else they were driving on. I stayed with the Industrial tire they recommended. Maybe I should have went with the R1 tires. Right now it is very dry and it is working fine. I know when winter comes and it is always wet, I will probably have the trouble I had last winter. I wonder if they make a set of chains that I could use in the wet conditions.

I sort of thought with the backhoe installed, it has better traction. I tried both ways. Hanging on the back it must put more weight on those large rear tires. Maybe I had too much weight on the front before.

I guess I just do my best because I suspect I won't like the cost of different tires, and probably too heavy to swap a new tire and rim set without injuring myself. Like having a set of snow tires for the car to swap over in winter. I have a place I want to make a path through the woods, but it is downhill. So if I go down and cannot make it back up, that will be trouble. I was thinking to try and make a path not going straight down. Make a path on the side of the hill and try and make a less steep way down. Like logging roads in the mountains have switchbacks to make it on steep slopes. I will require some digging on the uphill side. Not sure I can do it, but maybe worth a try.

R1s definitely will tear up anything other than really hard ground, so they were telling you the truth. A second set of wheels and tires would likely set you back $2K or more...ouch. Since your rear tires are loaded, they're going to be extremely heavy, which makes them difficult/dangerous to mess with. As far as swapping tires on the same wheels, it's not always possible based upon the tire sizes....it just sort of depends. Further, draining the fluid adds to the complication of swapping tires.

I'm sure you can find a set of chains that will fit your tires. Take a look here:
tractor tire chains for farm tractors