My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt.

   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt. #1  

BlackRaptor

Gold Member
Joined
May 13, 2008
Messages
382
Location
SEMN
Tractor
John Deere 3320
Hey everyone got some action shots for you guys.
Yes I know my ROPS are down. too many low trees to have them up.
I leanred a lesson though.
Don't play in the dirt with the mower deck on. because it's a paint to clean when your done. reason i had it on was for weight. the black dirt was HEAVY and i could feel the tail getting floaty when i went to dump. need to get a ballist box asap.
What i'm trying to go in these pictures is dig that whole area down 3 inches for gravel. and i've boardered it with Railroad tie.
It's 16X48 when i'm finish.
i'm going to have a big pile of dirt when i'm done. the pictures only show half of the area i'm working on. going to put up a 15X20 building there to keep the ATV and tractor in and rip down that ugly red on.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3582.JPG
    IMG_3582.JPG
    543.5 KB · Views: 596
  • IMG_3589.JPG
    IMG_3589.JPG
    611 KB · Views: 590
  • IMG_3585.JPG
    IMG_3585.JPG
    570.8 KB · Views: 507
  • IMG_3586.JPG
    IMG_3586.JPG
    538.5 KB · Views: 597
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt. #2  
Good pictures!

BUT, Get a Ballast Box and a I-Match faster than ASAP before you tear that MMM up, or overload the front axle and break something. Why some dealers do not include this if the tires are not loaded is crazy! My dealer will NOT sell a FEL without one or the other.

Also, trim the trees and get that ROPS up!
 
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I agree the Imatch and Ballist are a must. i'm going to call the dealer today and get them ordered.
How will it harm the axle? the weight amount it about the same with or without tail weight isn't it. because the pressure from the bucket is the same. the area i'm working in is very small and i'm in L going maybe 1/2mph in there so i'm going very slow and only half loading the buck to keep the weight down.
I'm been kinda bugged he didn't tell me to get the ballist right away.
But I agree from now on the MMM comes off. I spent 3 hours cleaning it when i finshed no damange to it thanks to how slow i was going but i don't like it dirty like that.
 
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt. #4  
Great photos Black Raptor. Yea I was thinking that would be your last
time working your tractor like that with the MMM on. Takes forever to
get mud off there. You got the right idea about ordering a ballast box.
If you pour concrete in the box, get some PVC pipe or conduit to store
rakes, hoes, ect... in your box.
 
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt. #5  
BlackRaptor said:
I agree the Imatch and Ballist are a must. i'm going to call the dealer today and get them ordered.
How will it harm the axle? the weight amount it about the same with or without tail weight isn't it. because the pressure from the bucket is the same. the area i'm working in is very small and i'm in L going maybe 1/2mph in there so i'm going very slow and only half loading the buck to keep the weight down.
I'm been kinda bugged he didn't tell me to get the ballist right away.
But I agree from now on the MMM comes off. I spent 3 hours cleaning it when i finshed no damange to it thanks to how slow i was going but i don't like it dirty like that.
Raptor, by using ballast behind the rear wheels, you are reducing the load on the front wheels (filling your tires doesn't have this affect, but it does make you less likely to tip over forward and makes the tractor more stable). The load in the bucket is the same with or without the rear ballast, this is correct, but the resultant load on the front tires does change when you add the rear ballast. Here's a good way to get the point....I'm assuming you have towed a trailer before? If you've got enough tongue weight, you'll notice that the front of your tow vehicle gets light, and tends to wander a bit more than usual. That is because you're adding weight to the rear and reducing the down force on your front tires. Same applies to adding rear ballast to a tractor.

You haven't done any damage in the short time you've used your tractor (it'd take a long time to do that), it is just less wear and tear on the front end by ballasting the rear.

Just my opinion, but I'd get your tires filled and use rear ballast. Unless you've got super soft lawn, the filled tires shouldn't cause much if any damage. I use my 2520 to mow (in addition to dirt work) and it leaves no marks on the lawn what so ever. In fact, the wheels on my finish mower leave more marks.
 
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt.
  • Thread Starter
#6  
That makes a lot of sense.
When i asked about the ballast weight i wasn't thinking.
acts on a pivit point, more weight hanging off the rear the more upforce on your front end.
Same as when you lift something heavy with the bucket it reduces the weight on your rear end.

What i'm thinking of doing is getting a 3point blade which i need anyways. An old farmer boss i use to work for put two weight boxes on ether side of the 3point frame on his to help the blade dig in better this would also act as a ballast. i could kill two birds with one stone this way.
Hmm time to dig out the welder i think.
 
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt. #7  
How will it harm the axle? the weight amount it about the same with or without tail weight isn't it. because the pressure from the bucket is the same.

Just as Birdmayon explained so well...weight on the back will decrease the load on the front axle. If the bucket is full, and the rear end becomes light-or worse comes off the ground, then all the weight of the tractor and the loader is balancing on the front axle.
 
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt. #8  
In addition, the weight on the rear will help with traction-if the rear axle is light the tires will slip, so then naturally you'd put the tranny into 4wd...now the front axle is pulling the tractor and doing the majority of the work and it's just not designed to do that.

Rear blades usually weighs about 200-300 pounds, you will need more weight than that to properly ballast the tractor if your tires are not filled. You loader manual should have a chart that explains this...My BB weighs in at about 700lbs or so.
 
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt.
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I agree the blade alone woudln't be heavy enough but with two boxes mouth on ether side of the upper 3point arm bracket it shoudl be plenty heavy i would think.
 
   / My 2520 in action. Playing in the dirt. #10  
Raptor,

I agree, the weight box is a great idea. You might also consider a box blade if you're going to do much earth moving/grading. They are pretty heavy and you can add extra weight to them easily with the suitcase weights. I use mine for ballast all the time. If you're going to be doing much heavy lifting, the ballast box does give more weight, about 1,000 lbs I think. Also, a little more compact.
 

Attachments

  • 100_0025 b.JPG
    100_0025 b.JPG
    367.3 KB · Views: 383

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Pex Crimp Tool Set (A45336)
Pex Crimp Tool Set...
2007 FORD F-450(INOPERABLE) (A47001)
2007 FORD...
Crowsfoot Cultipacker (A47809)
Crowsfoot...
2022 John Deere XUV825MS4 4x4 Gator (A47809)
2022 John Deere...
Loader Mount Hay Spear (A47809)
Loader Mount Hay...
Homemade P.T 6'x14' 2 Axle Trailer (A44502)
Homemade P.T...
 
Top