My (hopefully not ill advised) foray to the dark side...

Car Doc · Mar 28, 2011

284,

That is the same knuckle design Toyota and every other straight front 4wd axle company uses very durable and serviceable as long as the seals stay good which is where things start going bad on them. cool

The pup sure is cute! :thumbsup:

284 International · Mar 28, 2011

Car Doc, the first thing I thought of when I saw the insides of this axle was "This looks just like an FJ40, but with U-joints rather than CVs." It's going to be tough to keep lubricated, but I think I'll fill it with grease, and try to pack it around the seals, then put in gear lube.

Car Doc · Mar 28, 2011

There ya go FJ all the way! :thumbsup:

Of course you remember on them they had that 1/4 pipe plug somewhere on the side of the outer knuckle and we packed it all good putting it together and put a half tube gun grease in once she was assembled...hth.

284 International · Mar 28, 2011

This little guy has about the same thing, but I think it's a 1/8" plug (Or metric equivalent-3mm or so?) and I had the same idea. I don't know what kind of condition the felts and packing are in, but even new they don't seem to hold well anyway, so I figure the thickest grease I can find to pack, and then dump some gear lube in to get the hub reduction gears, and just plan on adding some every couple months...

Car Doc · Mar 28, 2011

Yeah agreed they all leaked no matter what we did just the nature of the beast!

I always said to my customers that didn't like it that - when they quit leaking thats when we will start worrying about it.

dserf101 · Mar 28, 2011

Hi 284, I'm sandmans friend with the B6000 and i think you are correct in assuming that it had a reverser, the bracket that is still attached looks like the back of this reverser shot..

you can see the three mounting bolts ( bottom right, left, and center ) that would match up to your bracket in this shot..

Keep the radiator full, this thing has no water pump. it works off of Thermo-siphon, when it's full you can see the fluid when you pop the cap, even at an angle.

Also i think you need to reroute that hydraulic hose, then you can reach the dip stick, mines a snap to get to. if you need anything, just shout.

284 International · Mar 28, 2011

Dserf101, thanks for the pictures! I wish I had the reverser, it would make this thing a lot more valuable.

The problem with the hydraulic hose is that it is connected to a hydraulic pump. I'll have to remount the pump somewhere else, I guess. I'm not sure what to do, I'm going to go check it out though. Thanks for the heads up. What do you run with your machine? What trouble, if any, have you had?

dserf101 · Mar 28, 2011

I have a finnish mower that had to be rigged to run backwards (reversed blades and change of the belt tensionser ) a 4' box blade with scarifier's, and a tiller that i had to rebuild that came with it. I'll post some more pictures tomorrow when i have some light.

284 International · Mar 29, 2011

I see you have automotive rims on back. What are those from? One of our other members, John Deere 3720, is looking for a way to put R4 or turf or mud terrain tires or something on his YM169D. Maybe your machine can give him a hand?

Those pictures of the box blade look really good. Is it built from scratch?

sandman2234 · Mar 29, 2011

Just a side note, to the building capabilities of Mr. Dserf101, is he is the one that fabricated the Davagrader that I have, from stuff that I supplied.
You really should get him to post a picture of the seat bracket, as that really made the little tractor a lot more comfortable, by pushing the seat back and upwards, giving much more leg room. Box blade started life as some standard channel iron, till it got in front of Dserf101's torch. Just the right size, works great. I think a standard cutting edge might be in the works to replace the existing one.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/175396-dava-grader-process.html

David from jax