eepete
Platinum Member
Almost put this in projects, but this is more of a couple hour hack 
So the problem is that when I want to use my PHD, I have to remove the iMatch. When I'm done with the PHD, I have to put the iMatch back on. Putting it on requires one hand to hold it semi-balanced, one hand to position the lift arm into it, and one hand to put in the pin. I'm just not that handy.
So the 1st pix is the iMatch still on the tractor after it has been lowered onto the dolly. I can now pull the toplink and the draft links without having to support the iMatch.
The next pix is the iMatch on the dolly showing the other side. This is the side that faces the tractor. Note that when installing the iMatch, you just have to get the draft links close. If they are too low, you can lift one up with one hand and position the dolly/iMatch with the other and put the pin in. If the arms are a little too high, you can rotate the iMatch out and up a bit. The boards on the back side (1st pix) keep it from sliding off. All these are left over wood on new dollies or castors. Used 2x8 to support the iMatch, 2x4 for the "don't slide off" bracing and they shore up and brace the 2x8's.
And of course once on the dolly, the iMatch is a lot easier to move out of the way than to carry it. Compared to no dolly, this is a hands-down better approach that works with the number of hands I have.
Since everyone likes pictures, the 3rd pix shows how it's easy to make these wood devices. Hurray for Dollywood. Or should I say "Well, Hello Dolly!" :laughing:. The iMatch and backhoe bucket dollies are Habor Freight dollies with plywood on them. 3/4 for the bucket, 1/2 for the iMatch. The tiller uses castors and plywood on a 2x4 frame. I put in two 1/2" pieces of plywood to make the bolts for the castors I had work, that was not smart because it is almost too high to connect up to the Kubota B21 TLB. Didn't want to cut them down, lazy always comes back to bite you. Will probably re-work it some rainy day. Thought about making the tiller pallet very custom so I would not need the supports under the side rails, then decided a generic dolly might have more uses down the road.
Routing the edges of the plywood and iMatch support wood, along with the stain and polyurethane, is an extra 20-30 minutes of work that keeps splinters down and keeps the wood from absorbing all the water, grease and oil that will eventually land on it.
And finally, for those who may have missed my post on a recent "PHD dolly" thread, here is a pix of my PHD holder. I'm not against building totally custom dollies, but they do take a lot more time.
Pete
So the problem is that when I want to use my PHD, I have to remove the iMatch. When I'm done with the PHD, I have to put the iMatch back on. Putting it on requires one hand to hold it semi-balanced, one hand to position the lift arm into it, and one hand to put in the pin. I'm just not that handy
.So the 1st pix is the iMatch still on the tractor after it has been lowered onto the dolly. I can now pull the toplink and the draft links without having to support the iMatch.
The next pix is the iMatch on the dolly showing the other side. This is the side that faces the tractor. Note that when installing the iMatch, you just have to get the draft links close. If they are too low, you can lift one up with one hand and position the dolly/iMatch with the other and put the pin in. If the arms are a little too high, you can rotate the iMatch out and up a bit. The boards on the back side (1st pix) keep it from sliding off. All these are left over wood on new dollies or castors. Used 2x8 to support the iMatch, 2x4 for the "don't slide off" bracing and they shore up and brace the 2x8's.
And of course once on the dolly, the iMatch is a lot easier to move out of the way than to carry it. Compared to no dolly, this is a hands-down better approach that works with the number of hands I have
.Since everyone likes pictures, the 3rd pix shows how it's easy to make these wood devices. Hurray for Dollywood. Or should I say "Well, Hello Dolly!" :laughing:. The iMatch and backhoe bucket dollies are Habor Freight dollies with plywood on them. 3/4 for the bucket, 1/2 for the iMatch. The tiller uses castors and plywood on a 2x4 frame. I put in two 1/2" pieces of plywood to make the bolts for the castors I had work, that was not smart because it is almost too high to connect up to the Kubota B21 TLB. Didn't want to cut them down, lazy always comes back to bite you
. Will probably re-work it some rainy day. Thought about making the tiller pallet very custom so I would not need the supports under the side rails, then decided a generic dolly might have more uses down the road.Routing the edges of the plywood and iMatch support wood, along with the stain and polyurethane, is an extra 20-30 minutes of work that keeps splinters down and keeps the wood from absorbing all the water, grease and oil that will eventually land on it.
And finally, for those who may have missed my post on a recent "PHD dolly" thread, here is a pix of my PHD holder. I'm not against building totally custom dollies, but they do take a lot more time.
Pete
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