BGL990
Gold Member
There have been a couple of threads lately where someone has considered the 990 alongside the fancy hydro machines when shopping for a new tractor. Since there will always be someone struggling with a similar decision and I just crossed the 50 hour/first service interval with mine, I thought I would post my impressions of the 990 (with 430 loader).
Keep in mind that while I have sat on the 4000 Ten series and similar machines at the dealer, I have not operated them. I have operated many tractors throughout my life, but they have primarily been antique AG tractors – JD model 70, Ford 9N, Case DC4, and the like, so my reference for comparing the 990 may be somewhat different than someone who has operated primarily newer equipment. In any event, here is what I think of my 990 …
The Tractor Overall:
I have found the tractor to be very easy to drive, maneuverable for it’s size, and comfortable. The controls and pedals are easy to reach and operate, and visibility is pretty good all around. If you come from a history of using “old iron” like me, this thing is a dream to operate. If you have never driven a tractor before and aren’t spoiled by air-ride seats and computer controls, I don’t think you’ll find much to complain about with the 990.
The Size Thing:
Of course there is no such thing as the perfect size of tractor – it depends on what you need it for. Someone used to a garden tractor or 2210 sized machine will think a 990 is pretty big. Most “real” farmers would probably consider it a cute little toy. My uses include quite a bit of front end loader work, light landscaping, breaking up and spreading horse manure in the field, toting trailers around the yard sometimes, lifting and moving stuff (more loader work I guess), pulling the occasional stump, and so on. I do not mow with my 990. For my uses, the 990 is as close to ideal as you are likely to get. There are definitely times that I wish for more loader lift capacity or more weight, but there are also times that a smaller machine would be more convenient, so I think it is a good compromise for me. I think if I could change anything it would be to make the machine heavier. I have all 4 tires filled, plus the loader and a rear blade brings the total weight to something around 5500 lbs. Even with this weight, however, I can spin all 4 tires easily if the rear blade hooks on something, for example. Having said that, I will also say that even before I loaded my tires, I could leave some pretty nasty ruts in the yard after a rain, so extra weight isn’t always a good thing – just most of the time /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
The Loader:
I have always thought that the 990 should have gotten the 460 loader instead of the 430. If you look at the axle load specs, it should be able to handle it, and I think it is close enough in size to the large frame 4000 Ten series tractors for the 460 to be a reasonable match. I have not, however, ever used a 460 loader, so I could be mistaken. As it stands, the 430 loader works well with the 990 - I just wish for more lift capacity sometimes. Without weight on the back, even the 430 can get the back end of the tractor pretty light, so maybe it is just as well I don’t have the 460. I’d probably have the back end off the ground a little too often! One thing I both like and dislike is the loader mounting mechanism (which isn’t unique to the 990 – all JD compact tractors and loaders share the same system I think). While it is a very slick system and putting the loader on and off is very easy, you do need a nice flat spot to do it on. Two or three times I have taken the loader off on uneven ground and had it sort of hang up on it’s mounts when putting it back on. Everything looked OK and seemed to be lined up, but something wasn’t quite right and while lifting the front part of the frame up into it’s proper place, there was a horrendous cracking/breaking noise as something popped into place. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Twice I thought for sure I had broken the cast fingers at the bottom of the mast where they rest on the square support posts. The left mast is in fact loose and I’m sure it is because of this problem – the hydraulics are strong enough to bend things if everything isn’t perfect when putting it back on the tractor. I think some slight modifications where things need to be lined up might help the loader seat itself a little easier.
The Throttle:
Several people have said that the 990’s foot throttle is very sensitive, and I guess it is. When I first got on, I did indeed find the throttle quite sensitive and got into a funny oscillation where I was bouncing the throttle up and down just from the jerkiness of the tractor (which was of course from bouncing the throttle …). After a short time, however, I started getting used to it and now I don’t find it too sensitive at all. It’s just part of the learning curve when operating a new piece of machinery – don’t worry about it.
Gear vs. Hydro:
OK, I know this has been beaten to death a hundred times, and I don’t want to re-ignite that debate again, but the collar shift tranny is probably the biggest fear many people have of the 990. Here are my thoughts on that whole issue (warning – personal opinions to follow ….)
I like gears. I also like hydrostatic transmissions. I am very mechanically inclined and know exactly how each of them work, the potential effects of long term wear, the maintenance involved, etc. I have a hydrostat in my garden tractor for mowing the grass and I love it. I also have a hard to define trust in basic gear transmissions that isn’t quite there with a hydro. I won’t get into which one is better for any given job or which might last longer, but I will share my feelings on some other reasons people give for choosing a hydro over gears.
Some have said that a clutch is harder to operate with arthritic knees, bad ankles, or other medical conditions and I would agree, especially when it’s cold out. I have no particular issues with my legs but after an hour or two of clearing snow in –20 deg. temperatures, my left leg and knee definitely know that a clutch was involved. If you have any physical issues that might make a clutch problematic, then a hydro is no doubt a better choice.
Some say that a hydro is much more productive than a gear transmission. If you actually did some long term timing tests, maybe it would be slightly faster doing loader work with a hydro, but for the average person I very much doubt it would make enough difference to worry about. I’m not sure about other tractors, but on the 990 first and reverse are in line with each other and the shift between the two is very smooth. For loader work where you are going slow anyway, I can clutch, brake to a stop, shift, and be going the other direction literally within a “one-thousand-one” count. Like driving a standard car, after a few hours of using the tractor your shifting becomes so automatic (pardon the pun) that you barely even notice you are doing it. In my opinion more time is spent operating the loader itself (lifting/curling to fill the bucket, raising the bucket out of the pile, etc) than shifting so the tiny difference in productivity should not be an issue for a homeowner looking for an acreage or yard tractor.
Some say that a hydro is easier to use for beginners – the “my wife can drive it too” argument. To that I say your wife probably deserves more credit than that. Almost anyone can drive a standard (even if they are scared to try at first) and tractors are geared so low that there should be plenty of time to react when learning. On hills it is true that just taking your foot off the pedals of a hydro will stop you, but is it really that much harder for a beginner to “push all the pedals on both sides if you get into trouble”? If you or a relative don’t drive a standard then I would suggest looking at it as a minor challenge to overcome and think of how good it will feel to learn a new and very worthwhile skill. Case in point – I recently had a friend from work over and made him drive my tractor. He is a tried and true city slicker and has never driven a tractor or a standard car before, but he wasn’t afraid to try. He jumped on, I quickly told him what to do and 2 minutes later he was digging dirt from a pile with no problem. Don’t let trepidation about that gear shift affect your purchase decision too much.
Well, I’ve probably set a TBN record for the longest post by now, so I’ll wrap it up. I have no regrets buying my 990. It is a good, solid, no frills tractor that should last a lifetime for the average acreage owner. In my opinion the collar shift tranny is almost a non issue. The size, weight, horsepower, your intended use, and cost (most important to me at the time) should dictate your decision regarding the 990. If you have tons of spare cash, buy whatever you want. If not, don’t dismiss the 990 too soon for reasons that probably won’t matter once you own it.
Keep in mind that while I have sat on the 4000 Ten series and similar machines at the dealer, I have not operated them. I have operated many tractors throughout my life, but they have primarily been antique AG tractors – JD model 70, Ford 9N, Case DC4, and the like, so my reference for comparing the 990 may be somewhat different than someone who has operated primarily newer equipment. In any event, here is what I think of my 990 …
The Tractor Overall:
I have found the tractor to be very easy to drive, maneuverable for it’s size, and comfortable. The controls and pedals are easy to reach and operate, and visibility is pretty good all around. If you come from a history of using “old iron” like me, this thing is a dream to operate. If you have never driven a tractor before and aren’t spoiled by air-ride seats and computer controls, I don’t think you’ll find much to complain about with the 990.
The Size Thing:
Of course there is no such thing as the perfect size of tractor – it depends on what you need it for. Someone used to a garden tractor or 2210 sized machine will think a 990 is pretty big. Most “real” farmers would probably consider it a cute little toy. My uses include quite a bit of front end loader work, light landscaping, breaking up and spreading horse manure in the field, toting trailers around the yard sometimes, lifting and moving stuff (more loader work I guess), pulling the occasional stump, and so on. I do not mow with my 990. For my uses, the 990 is as close to ideal as you are likely to get. There are definitely times that I wish for more loader lift capacity or more weight, but there are also times that a smaller machine would be more convenient, so I think it is a good compromise for me. I think if I could change anything it would be to make the machine heavier. I have all 4 tires filled, plus the loader and a rear blade brings the total weight to something around 5500 lbs. Even with this weight, however, I can spin all 4 tires easily if the rear blade hooks on something, for example. Having said that, I will also say that even before I loaded my tires, I could leave some pretty nasty ruts in the yard after a rain, so extra weight isn’t always a good thing – just most of the time /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
The Loader:
I have always thought that the 990 should have gotten the 460 loader instead of the 430. If you look at the axle load specs, it should be able to handle it, and I think it is close enough in size to the large frame 4000 Ten series tractors for the 460 to be a reasonable match. I have not, however, ever used a 460 loader, so I could be mistaken. As it stands, the 430 loader works well with the 990 - I just wish for more lift capacity sometimes. Without weight on the back, even the 430 can get the back end of the tractor pretty light, so maybe it is just as well I don’t have the 460. I’d probably have the back end off the ground a little too often! One thing I both like and dislike is the loader mounting mechanism (which isn’t unique to the 990 – all JD compact tractors and loaders share the same system I think). While it is a very slick system and putting the loader on and off is very easy, you do need a nice flat spot to do it on. Two or three times I have taken the loader off on uneven ground and had it sort of hang up on it’s mounts when putting it back on. Everything looked OK and seemed to be lined up, but something wasn’t quite right and while lifting the front part of the frame up into it’s proper place, there was a horrendous cracking/breaking noise as something popped into place. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Twice I thought for sure I had broken the cast fingers at the bottom of the mast where they rest on the square support posts. The left mast is in fact loose and I’m sure it is because of this problem – the hydraulics are strong enough to bend things if everything isn’t perfect when putting it back on the tractor. I think some slight modifications where things need to be lined up might help the loader seat itself a little easier.
The Throttle:
Several people have said that the 990’s foot throttle is very sensitive, and I guess it is. When I first got on, I did indeed find the throttle quite sensitive and got into a funny oscillation where I was bouncing the throttle up and down just from the jerkiness of the tractor (which was of course from bouncing the throttle …). After a short time, however, I started getting used to it and now I don’t find it too sensitive at all. It’s just part of the learning curve when operating a new piece of machinery – don’t worry about it.
Gear vs. Hydro:
OK, I know this has been beaten to death a hundred times, and I don’t want to re-ignite that debate again, but the collar shift tranny is probably the biggest fear many people have of the 990. Here are my thoughts on that whole issue (warning – personal opinions to follow ….)
I like gears. I also like hydrostatic transmissions. I am very mechanically inclined and know exactly how each of them work, the potential effects of long term wear, the maintenance involved, etc. I have a hydrostat in my garden tractor for mowing the grass and I love it. I also have a hard to define trust in basic gear transmissions that isn’t quite there with a hydro. I won’t get into which one is better for any given job or which might last longer, but I will share my feelings on some other reasons people give for choosing a hydro over gears.
Some have said that a clutch is harder to operate with arthritic knees, bad ankles, or other medical conditions and I would agree, especially when it’s cold out. I have no particular issues with my legs but after an hour or two of clearing snow in –20 deg. temperatures, my left leg and knee definitely know that a clutch was involved. If you have any physical issues that might make a clutch problematic, then a hydro is no doubt a better choice.
Some say that a hydro is much more productive than a gear transmission. If you actually did some long term timing tests, maybe it would be slightly faster doing loader work with a hydro, but for the average person I very much doubt it would make enough difference to worry about. I’m not sure about other tractors, but on the 990 first and reverse are in line with each other and the shift between the two is very smooth. For loader work where you are going slow anyway, I can clutch, brake to a stop, shift, and be going the other direction literally within a “one-thousand-one” count. Like driving a standard car, after a few hours of using the tractor your shifting becomes so automatic (pardon the pun) that you barely even notice you are doing it. In my opinion more time is spent operating the loader itself (lifting/curling to fill the bucket, raising the bucket out of the pile, etc) than shifting so the tiny difference in productivity should not be an issue for a homeowner looking for an acreage or yard tractor.
Some say that a hydro is easier to use for beginners – the “my wife can drive it too” argument. To that I say your wife probably deserves more credit than that. Almost anyone can drive a standard (even if they are scared to try at first) and tractors are geared so low that there should be plenty of time to react when learning. On hills it is true that just taking your foot off the pedals of a hydro will stop you, but is it really that much harder for a beginner to “push all the pedals on both sides if you get into trouble”? If you or a relative don’t drive a standard then I would suggest looking at it as a minor challenge to overcome and think of how good it will feel to learn a new and very worthwhile skill. Case in point – I recently had a friend from work over and made him drive my tractor. He is a tried and true city slicker and has never driven a tractor or a standard car before, but he wasn’t afraid to try. He jumped on, I quickly told him what to do and 2 minutes later he was digging dirt from a pile with no problem. Don’t let trepidation about that gear shift affect your purchase decision too much.
Well, I’ve probably set a TBN record for the longest post by now, so I’ll wrap it up. I have no regrets buying my 990. It is a good, solid, no frills tractor that should last a lifetime for the average acreage owner. In my opinion the collar shift tranny is almost a non issue. The size, weight, horsepower, your intended use, and cost (most important to me at the time) should dictate your decision regarding the 990. If you have tons of spare cash, buy whatever you want. If not, don’t dismiss the 990 too soon for reasons that probably won’t matter once you own it.
