my tractor hauler is almost complete

[RoMad]

When I bought my tractor in November my wife hauled it home in my single axle utilty trailer. The trailer has a 3,000 lb axle, but it was a big load for it. A while back I bought an old car hauler from a man I work with. It was made from an old travel trailer. It has drop axles and brakes on both axles. I wire brushed the frame, painted it and glued composite scaffold boards down for the deck. They are very light weight and strong too. I had an old set of ramps that I had made from expanded metal and channel from an industrial storage rack. I mounted them on a 1" piece of round stock so I can move them side to side. I put a piece of pipe over the all thread with only about 1/8" clearance so when I drive up the ramps the pipe sits down on the steel of the trailer so it won't bend the round stock.
I will only be hauling my tractor ocassionally and it is only 6 miles from my house to my property. I am also planning on using it to haul material for my pole barn and round bales of hay in the winter.
Today was the test pull and my 4 cyl Tacoma pulled it great. I had the tractor a little farther forward than I needed to. Now that I know my truck pulls it good I will put a brake control on my truck so I can stop it too.

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[Diamondpilot]

Looks good.

Now to be critical. You need to secure it better. In a panic stop that tractor is coming forward. Your straps are strong enough for your load, not the best, but legal. But they need to be at a 45 degree angle from 4 tie down points on the tractor and trailer. That way if one on the rear breaks or comes loose you still have the other holding it secure.

I would also get a stop placed across the front of the trailer. Something like a 2" pipe welded on vertical post about 8" above the trailers deck. This will be a last stop if something was to come loose. Look at most car haulers, they have this feature.

Look up the towing and securing rules in your state. Most are ok with straps for light loads like yours, less than 10,000#. Some will only accept chains of certain grade and strength and they want each attachment secure to the deck. FEL is considered a attachment. So in your case you would need a minimum of 6 straps or better yet 4 short 10' chains for the tractor with load binders and use the two straps you have to secure you FEL to the deck over the buck as you have and one over your box blade to secure it down also.

Just want to keep you safe. Legal is good also.

Chris

 

[Markcuda]

If it was me, this is what I would use, your mileage may very.

 

[RoMad]

Thank you both for the advice on tieing down the tractor. After reading other posts and yours I will start chaining it down. I have plenty of chain, just need to get a couple of chain binders. I found some at the flea market a while back that were good quality and a good price. I will go this Saturday and see if they are still there. If not I have a couple of good comalongs that I can use for now.
I only hauled it 6 miles like it was in the pictures. I will haul it back secured properly.
thanks again for the good advice.

 

[mojoinco]

I figure you do don't do this when hauling (practice in tying of for the pictures), but I noticed the box blade looked like it was up.

I prefer the ratcheting load binders, as you don't have to consider tying the handles back.

 

[radioman]

If those rachet straps are all you have , please use them in a fashion of an X for better tie down practice.

 

[Builder]

If it was me, this is what I would use, your mileage may very.

Exactly. When hauling my backhoe (20,000lbs fully dressed) behind my 4800, I use ratcheting binders, but what would an east coaster like me know. :laughing: