hammerblossom
New member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2009
- Messages
- 8
I've seen some solutions to the challenge I'd like to resolve, but so far all of them seem inadequate, go too far, or are too expensive.
The factory "drawbar" on my little BX2350 is so far forward that when I hook up a lawn roller or other pull-behind implement the tongue can contact a rear tire on a moderately short turn. Contributing to the problem is that the implement tongues are plain too short.
Additionally I find the factory "drawbar" too low and inconvenient for mounting a hitch ball and attaching my trailer.
Tisco sells a cat. I drawbar and a drawbar lock for about $34 and $20 respectively. The lock has a rectangular hole that is far larger than the dimensions of the drawbar, but the device does more or less lock around one of the lower draft arms. (They say you need only one lock.) That's one option if it works well, but I'm not sold. It looks too loose to be effective, and I'm concerned about damage to the draft arms.
Another option is what's called by some sellers as a cat. I trailer hitch. This device incorporates a drawbar with a 2" box hitch welded in. I don't need or want to pay for the box hitch, nor am I interested in having a second box hitch adapter with no ball for hooking up pull behind implements. What I like about this thing, though, is that it incorporates angled bars which attach to the top link just like the bars on any 3pt hitch implement. This way you can adjust the top link to make the drawbar level with the ground. Instead of the box hitch tube, I'd like this type hitch with a simple bar with multiple holes. When I want to pull the trailer I'll bolt on a ball, as I used to with my 1951 Allis Chalmers.
Just to add to my "pickiness", I'd like a hitch made for compacts and subcompacts rather than a big, beefy one which will stand up to the horsepower of the largest cat. I tractors.
If I had a welder and knew how to use it, I think in a day I could build a hitch adapter that would do what I want. Since welding is out of the question for me and I don't have a welder relative, friend, or neighbor to whom I could trade my carpentry skills for the work, IS THE TYPE OF HITCH I'M LOOKING FOR AVAILABLE COMMERCIALLY AT A REASONABLE PRICE?
Thanks for any and all help!
Bill
The factory "drawbar" on my little BX2350 is so far forward that when I hook up a lawn roller or other pull-behind implement the tongue can contact a rear tire on a moderately short turn. Contributing to the problem is that the implement tongues are plain too short.
Additionally I find the factory "drawbar" too low and inconvenient for mounting a hitch ball and attaching my trailer.
Tisco sells a cat. I drawbar and a drawbar lock for about $34 and $20 respectively. The lock has a rectangular hole that is far larger than the dimensions of the drawbar, but the device does more or less lock around one of the lower draft arms. (They say you need only one lock.) That's one option if it works well, but I'm not sold. It looks too loose to be effective, and I'm concerned about damage to the draft arms.
Another option is what's called by some sellers as a cat. I trailer hitch. This device incorporates a drawbar with a 2" box hitch welded in. I don't need or want to pay for the box hitch, nor am I interested in having a second box hitch adapter with no ball for hooking up pull behind implements. What I like about this thing, though, is that it incorporates angled bars which attach to the top link just like the bars on any 3pt hitch implement. This way you can adjust the top link to make the drawbar level with the ground. Instead of the box hitch tube, I'd like this type hitch with a simple bar with multiple holes. When I want to pull the trailer I'll bolt on a ball, as I used to with my 1951 Allis Chalmers.
Just to add to my "pickiness", I'd like a hitch made for compacts and subcompacts rather than a big, beefy one which will stand up to the horsepower of the largest cat. I tractors.
If I had a welder and knew how to use it, I think in a day I could build a hitch adapter that would do what I want. Since welding is out of the question for me and I don't have a welder relative, friend, or neighbor to whom I could trade my carpentry skills for the work, IS THE TYPE OF HITCH I'M LOOKING FOR AVAILABLE COMMERCIALLY AT A REASONABLE PRICE?
Thanks for any and all help!
Bill
