Need advice on tie rod end removal

[jedjoe]

Hi all,

I have a 2004 New Holland TC35. Many years ago I bent the tie rod out in the woods. Recently, the tie rod separated from the tie rod end, the likely result of the threads eventually stripping from uneven pressure on the assembly.

Bought a new assembly (the rod itself along with the left and right tie rod ends) from Messick's. The tractor is 20 years old this spring and it seemed smart to just replace the entire assembly rather than just one end and the rod.

Question: Assuming I do not have the special removing tools at my disposal, what's the best way to unfreeze that tapered bolt that holds the tie rod end to the wheel arm? I've watched a couple of youtube videos. They suggest penetrating oil and then a couple of "sharp" raps with heavier weight hammer on the arm where the tapered hole receives that tapered bolt. Would it also help to heat the arm first?

I stupidly thought that hitting the end of bolt modestly would unfreeze it, and all I did was mushroom the end of the nut. Fortunately, the old assembly is not being saved, so it's not a big deal. And I had already removed the castellated nuts.

I hope to do this repair this afternoon, so any wisdom over the day today appreciated.

 

[RustyA]

But, rent, or borrow a pickle fork to remove the tie rods. They are tapered and you hammer on the end to use the wedge shape to pop the old tie rods out. A wheel puller may have worked prior to spoiling castle nut threads. A little heat from a torch will help since you won't need to worry about burning the boots. Pickle fork at local auto parts store should be less than $20. Take a new tie rod with you to determine proper size of fork you need.

 

[ljjhouser]

Those tapered surfaces are always meant to be "frozen." Rarely, you can apply pressure to the bolt end. But I don't advise that. you may risk other damage.

The expansion forks that look like a chisel with a fork on the end may be the best way. They do not cost much and can save a lot of trouble. A small set I think runs about $20 - $40 or so. Best Wishes. It may be that someone else has a way to remove it without the tool.

 

[dieselscout80]

Hold a heavy hammer against one side of the socket where the taper bolt/tie rod goes through and then use another hammer to hit the opposite side. This will break it free if you do not have access to a pickle fork.

 

[jedjoe]

But, rent, or borrow a pickle fork to remove the tie rods. They are tapered and you hammer on the end to use the wedge shape to pop the old tie rods out. A wheel puller may have worked prior to spoiling castle nut threads. A little heat from a torch will help since you won't need to worry about burning the boots. Pickle fork at local auto parts store should be less than $20. Take a new tie rod with you to determine proper size of fork you need.

what should I heat? The tie rod bolt or the end of the arm?

 

[George2615]

Get one of these kits. Available on Amazon for under $22. I wouldn't heat anything. I've seen guys that broke the tie rod hole or steering knuckle from heating and hitting with a hammer.

 

[WranglerX]

what should I heat? The tie rod bolt or the end of the arm?

NO heat.... Use hammer effect or pickle fork...

 

[ericm979]

They make small pullers for tie rod ends. With a puller the force is on the end of the threaded stud and not sideways on the steering knuckle like with a pickle fork.

 

[jedjoe]

I had sprayed the joints with penetrating oil this morning. 4 hours later heated the two arms up JUST SLIGHTLY and then hit them a few times with a 16 oz ball peen hammer. The joints freed right up and have now installed the new tie rod assembly and toed in the alignment. All set! Thanks for the advice all!

 

[RustyA]

Well done without a pickle fork. Glad it worked out for you!