Need bigtime help on trailer decision

   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #1  

LabLuvR

Gold Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2004
Messages
257
Location
SC
Tractor
Kubota MX5400
I'm going into the food plot business and will need to haul as much equipment as possible at one time. Being almost to the point of stupid about trailers I'm in dire need of some suggestions if you will.

Here is the deal. I have a 2500 HD 4x4 GMC with the gas six liter engine.In the worst case scenerio with my plot business I see me needing to haul the following at one time "if possible".

37 hp 4x4 Kubota around 3,000 lbs. 12 ft. long
Six foot deep disc around 1,000 lbs.??
6' chisel plow 3' deep around 1,000lbs
2 row JD Flex 71 planter 800 lbs????????

All of those pieces come up to me needing around a length of 21-22' of load space.

Can this be done safely with one trailer? I think it can but need someone that knows to advise. Second, while I do recognize a gooseneck would probably be the best, it is almost essential that I keep the pickup bed free to haul a four wheeler, fertilizer etc.etc

My grand plan is to back the disc onto the trailer, then back on the planter and then have the tractor with the chisel plow attached, facing foward on the trailer as that would be the first implement I would probably need. I can with no problem switch things around if suggested but need to get two piece of equipment near the front of the trailer with tractor being last.

All opinions welcome. Thanks again!!
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #2  
need a gooseneck
need 25 to 30' of trailer
stuff never ties down like it should
might be better to make 2 trips (or go up, do the plowing, then go back up to finish if it takes more than one day)

switching equipment on site sucks.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #3  
What is the tow limit of your truck? So it's tow rating is somewhere between 9,600# and 12,600# depending on cab/bed configuration and rear axle gears either being 3.73's or 4.10's according to my trailer towing data. I sell trailers part time so I have a lot of info on all trucks. You can get the same from the net or you owners manual.

A bumper pull trailer is going to come in around 2,500# and a GN is going to be around 4,000# empty. So on the low end with a GN you would be able to haul 5,600# of stuff on the trailer. On the bumper pull low end you would be able to haul 7,100# of stuff on the trailer. On the high end you would be able to haul 8,600# with a GN and about 10,100# of stuff with a bumper pull. GM usually has a 12,000# max on the bumper so actually it would be 9,500# when you subtract the trailer. All GM publishes is the max tow weight. The limit of the bumper pull hitch is printed on the hitch itself.

Adding up the equipment you come in at 6,600# and add another 800# or so for the Quad for a total of 7,400#. I am guessing you are off on the wight of your tractor. My 28HP 4x4 tractor with a FEL weighs in at 4,800# with no implements on the 3 point. I would find out the exact weights of each item then remember to add in the weights for your chains and binders, hand tools, ext.

My feeling is you are going to need a bigger truck, make two trips, or give up the bed for a GN trailer.

Good luck.

Chris
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #4  
Don't forget to get your pin (tongue) weight. Take your loaded trailer x 15-20% to see if your rear axle will be overloaded. If your trailer weighs 10,000lbs then your pin weight would be 1,500-2,000 lbs. Add your 4 wheeler and your tools and see if you have the payload over your rear axle for that weight. Usually 3/4 ton trucks get KILLED on pin weight because they have a lot lower rear axle & GVWR than a 1-ton.

5th wheel trailering weights are higher than bumper pull because more weight is placed direclty over the rear axle and shared more with the front axle. Bumper pull towing capacity is lower because the trailer is connected 3-5 feet behind the rear axle. That lifts the front axle up and doesn't allow it to assist in carrying the weight like a 5th wheel.

Since a 5th wheel will allow you to carry more weight, I'm wondering if you could fit your 5th wheeler on the trailer "across" the trailer then fit your tractor equipment on it. They're only about 3-4 feet wide. With a 5th wheel you can also increase your tongue weight since the load is over the rear axle rather than behind it. You could still have the bed free for some bags of fert, chemicals, etc.

Another option is an aluminum trailer. It would probably weigh 35-40% less and make up for your 3/4 ton's shortcomings. That way you can increase your payload quite a bit, maybe 1,000 lbs! They're noticeably more expensive, but it might be your only option if you must have a trailer but can't part with your existing truck.

A set of ride rite airbags would be really nice to help level the truck..

Maybe you can find a used aluminum trailer to take the sting out of buying one.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #5  
Sounds like a puzzle that needs to be put together. Here are my thoughts whether they are right or wrong.

If your tractor has a loader and have pallet forks, get two pallets, strap the disk on one and set it on the front/drivers side, put the planter or chisel on the other and do the same on the front/passenger side. This will save a little space I think. Then either put fertilizer/seed and the four wheeler along side the tractor, or put the four wheeler crossways behind the pallets and in front of the tractor with the fert./seed beside the tractor. All this being a deckover trailer. I have had to do this kind of loading often to fit everything I want to take. Might consider a 24' deckover gooseneck. What other things down the road might you do that needs a longer trailer? Get a bigger one now instead of trading 2 years down the road. You thought 21-22' should (keyword "should") be enough, go 2' more at least than that IMO. Trailers are like shops, usually never big enough. Like I said, this is my thoughts to this situation. Good luck!!

Dennis
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #6  
newt92 said:
Sounds like a puzzle that needs to be put together. Here are my thoughts whether they are right or wrong.

If your tractor has a loader and have pallet forks, get two pallets, strap the disk on one and set it on the front/drivers side, put the planter or chisel on the other and do the same on the front/passenger side. This will save a little space I think. Then either put fertilizer/seed and the four wheeler along side the tractor, or put the four wheeler crossways behind the pallets and in front of the tractor with the fert./seed beside the tractor. All this being a deckover trailer. I have had to do this kind of loading often to fit everything I want to take. Might consider a 24' deckover gooseneck. What other things down the road might you do that needs a longer trailer? Get a bigger one now instead of trading 2 years down the road. You thought 21-22' should (keyword "should") be enough, go 2' more at least than that IMO. Trailers are like shops, usually never big enough. Like I said, this is my thoughts to this situation. Good luck!!

Dennis

I really like my GN's (2). the tag along (bumper hitch) I use for the backhoe. I would get a GN 28ft, you wont be sorry. Make sure you dont overload any trailer you buy. Sounds like your truck might be an issue, check it out and see what its rated for. I hate to add this, because of the flack, but IF the trailer is rated, for more than 10,000 lbs, you have to have a CDL, Yes this is a bummer, lots of this going on, with no CDL. Just hope you dont get stopped.
Read the post about CDL, trailering, etc
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #7  
Willis Fecon Bushhogging said:
I really like my GN's (2). the tag along (bumper hitch) I use for the backhoe. I would get a GN 28ft, you wont be sorry. Make sure you dont overload any trailer you buy. Sounds like your truck might be an issue, check it out and see what its rated for. I hate to add this, because of the flack, but IF the trailer is rated, for more than 10,000 lbs, you have to have a CDL, Yes this is a bummer, lots of this going on, with no CDL. Just hope you dont get stopped.
Read the post about CDL, trailering, etc

You don't need a CDL to tow a 10K trailer unless the truck and trailer is in excess of 26K lbs and the trailer is in excess of 10K lbs. Since it's doubtful his combination is over 26,000lbs, he won't need a CDL.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #8  
Willis Fecon Bushhogging said:
, but IF the trailer is rated, for more than 10,000 lbs, you have to have a CDL, Yes this is a bummer, lots of this going on, with no CDL. Just hope you dont get stopped.
Read the post about CDL, trailering, etc

Depends on the state.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I think I'm on the money about the tractor weight as I checked the manual and I do not have an FEL though I wish I did. Now the other implements weights are guesses, hopefully to the high side.

Here are the specs for the hitch on the Truck:

V-5 Talon
Weight Carrying 7500Lb.
Weight Distributing 12,000lb.
It has a Class 3 slide in reciever

For the truck the information is listed as follows out of the owners manual:

10,100lbs. maximum trailer weight

Then it goes on to say that GN kingpin weight should be 15% to 25% of trailer weight up to 2,500 lbs.

The thing is the scenerio I gave is worst case and should occur infrequently but something I need to plan around. Sure would be very advantageous with gas prices to only make one trip vs. two. Hope that give you guys a little more info. Sorry I didn't include it before.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #10  
LabLuvR said:
I'm going into the food plot business and will need to haul as much equipment as possible at one time. Being almost to the point of stupid about trailers I'm in dire need of some suggestions if you will.

Here is the deal. I have a 2500 HD 4x4 GMC with the gas six liter engine.In the worst case scenerio with my plot business I see me needing to haul the following at one time "if possible".

37 hp 4x4 Kubota around 3,000 lbs. 12 ft. long
Six foot deep disc around 1,000 lbs.??
6' chisel plow 3' deep around 1,000lbs
2 row JD Flex 71 planter 800 lbs????????

All of those pieces come up to me needing around a length of 21-22' of load space.

Can this be done safely with one trailer? I think it can but need someone that knows to advise. Second, while I do recognize a gooseneck would probably be the best, it is almost essential that I keep the pickup bed free to haul a four wheeler, fertilizer etc.etc

My grand plan is to back the disc onto the trailer, then back on the planter and then have the tractor with the chisel plow attached, facing foward on the trailer as that would be the first implement I would probably need. I can with no problem switch things around if suggested but need to get two piece of equipment near the front of the trailer with tractor being last.

All opinions welcome. Thanks again!!


The tractor appears to be just over 10' unless you have a FEL which should put it over 12'. It should weigh in at approx. 33-3400 lbs.

I would definitely get a GN instead of a bumper pull. Planting food plots will probably put you in some tight situations with your truck/trailer, and it is easier to spin around with a GN.

ATV's are usually about 48"s wide. I would park it on the trailer, just figure the extra length needed. You could even get a seed spreader for your ATV and a helper could spread seed while your discing the next plot.

You will not need a CDL for a 10k trailer.

GOOD LUCK!
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I can just leave the ATV at home. The important items would be the disc, chisel plow, planter and tractor.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #12  
I am like you and like a bumper pull for the same reasons, I need my bed. Anyway with only 10,100# available you will have to go bumper pull, a goose neck trailer would take up 40% or more of your available towing weight so thats out of the question. A 10,000# bumper pull trailer to do what you need is going to tip the scales at 2,500-3,000#. That is only going to leave you with 7,100-7,600# of possible payload. I am guessing you are going to need to upgrade your hitch to a WD model to carry the weight because you will be over the 7,500# limit on your truck so add another $400 to the mix. The factory hitches leave a lot to be desired on all trucks except for the new 2.5" units but will work with the proper equipment.

Time to go trailer shopping. Don't forget to look at the empty weights of the trailers, the tires are also rated for loads so make sure they add up to the trailers carrying capacity, and that it has brakes.


Chris
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #13  
For the truck the information is listed as follows out of the owners manual:

10,100lbs. maximum trailer weight

Is that at the bumper or for a goosneck? I would think it would be rated higher for a goosneck than bumper.

My 05 F250 powerstroke is rated max of 12,500lbs at the bumper with a weight distributing hitch or 15,000 lbs for a goosneck/5th wheel. I would much rather be pulling a goosneck than a bumper pull if your at or near your weight limit. Also, don't forget to you have to stop. A good break controller would be a good investment.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision
  • Thread Starter
#14  
This is the only info I could find relating to a gooseneck unless I missed something in the manual:

"GN kingpin weight should be 15% to 25% of trailer weight up to 2,500 lbs"

That all it had to say about GN's. I will look some more but I believe that's it.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #15  
LabLuvR said:
This is the only info I could find relating to a gooseneck unless I missed something in the manual:

"GN kingpin weight should be 15% to 25% of trailer weight up to 2,500 lbs"

That all it had to say about GN's. I will look some more but I believe that's it.

What year/cab/bed configuration is your truck? The worse case scenario for a 2008 is 9600# bumper and 12,100# GN.
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #16  
LabLuvR said:
I think I'm on the money about the tractor weight as I checked the manual and I do not have an FEL though I wish I did. Now the other implements weights are guesses, hopefully to the high side.

Here are the specs for the hitch on the Truck:

V-5 Talon
Weight Carrying 7500Lb.
Weight Distributing 12,000lb.
It has a Class 3 slide in reciever

For the truck the information is listed as follows out of the owners manual:

10,100lbs. maximum trailer weight

Then it goes on to say that GN kingpin weight should be 15% to 25% of trailer weight up to 2,500 lbs.

The thing is the scenerio I gave is worst case and should occur infrequently but something I need to plan around. Sure would be very advantageous with gas prices to only make one trip vs. two. Hope that give you guys a little more info. Sorry I didn't include it before.

Is the "10,100lbs max trailer weight" for any trailer or a bumper pull trailer? I'm sure the 5th wheel rating is higher, because my GMC is much higher than that. Look in the fine print at the bottom. there it usually defines 5th wheel capacity.

Looks like you can get a 12,500lb 5th wheel if you have 2500lbs available over your rear axle. 20% divided into 2500lbs is 12,500 lbs. So you could use a 12,500lb 5th wheel as long as you keep the pin weight at 20% (which should be pretty easy). If the 5th wheel trailer weighs 4,000lbs, then you'd have a 8,500lbs payload. You must also check your GCWR. Let's say it's 20,000lbs. Then if you buy a 12,500lb 5th wheel, your truck must weigh less than 7,500lbs. Should be do-able.

Basically, it comes down to knowing exactly what weight you're carrying- if your total load GVWR (trailer and cargo) is less than 10K, the 10K bumperpull would free up some bed space for more cargo and be cheaper in price as a bonus. Bumper pull trailer will weigh ~3,000lbs so you'll have a 7,000lb available payload. Just be careful here because as you add cargo to the bed, you drastically reduce available pin weight. Every 500 lbs in the bed reduces available trailer capacity by 2,500lbs!!! (500lbs/20% = 2,500lbs)

You know with nothing in the bed, you can put 7,000lbs on the trailer (10K-3K = 7K). Now you put 1,000lbs of seed & tools in the bed. Now you reduce your allowable trailer pin weight capacity by 1,000 nearly 40%!! That's because you reduced your pin weight from 2,500 to 1,500 lbs. 1,500 lbs / 20% = 7,500lbs trailer capacity. So basically with 1,000lbs in the bed, you can only pull roughly a 7,500lb GVWR trailer! Remember that before you buy a bumper pull if you plan on loading up the bed!

If you're over 10K, the 5th wheel gives you another 1,000-1,500lbs +/- extra load capacity and more manueverability as a bonus. Disadvantage is cost & bed space.

What I did was a "dry run". Snap chalk lines on the driveway to the shape of your 5th wheel (say it's 7' x 24') and see if you can park all your stuff in that 7 x 24' rectangle. ;)
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision
  • Thread Starter
#17  
The truck is a 2004 shortbed 4x4 Silverado 2500 HDmodel with the 4:10 axle. I've reread the manual and I can't find anything that mentions a GN other than the kingpin weight should be no more than 15-25% of trailer weight. The manual does make allowances for more weight with other model trucks using a GN but apparently not mine which I find strange.

Btw, I love the chalk line idea! Amazingly brilliant. Why didn't I think of that?:D
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #18  
I just realized you have a 6L gas. Just checked trailer towing guide. If it's an '07 or older, the base 6L gas engine IS limited to 10,300lbs on bumper or 5th wheel. :(

Ford is just as bad. Base 5.4L triton ratings are worse off bumper only 8800lbs and a little better 5th wheel at ~10,800lbs. :eek:

If you had a 2500 w/ DMAX, 5th wheel would be 15,600 lbs. If you had a 3500 w/ DMAX like mine, 5th wheel would be 16,600 lbs! That's quite a difference! :eek:

OK, so that pretty much means you need to get the longest 10K bumperpull you can get because the 5th wheel rating is no better than bumperpull and since a bumperpull is lighter, you can carry more weight..

Think about my idea of an aluminum bumperpull trailer to make up for your light tow rating. That will really help you a lot. ;)
 
Last edited:
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #19  
You should be fine with the load you mentioned. Now go buy a trailer and let's see some pics!
 
   / Need bigtime help on trailer decision #20  
Here's a good link with tow rating info for anyone else who needs it. Gives ratings by engine size, 4wd vs 2wd, model, etc.

Trailer Life Magazine: America's Number One RV Magazine

You will also want to check your GCWR. I re-checked the rating for my 05 F250 (reg cab long bed) and shows 15,900 for a goosneck max but the GCWR is 23,000 lbs. So if you do the math that leaves me with only 7,100 lbs for the truck and and additional cargo (including passengers). I think the dry weight of my truck is around 7,200 lbs before adding fuel and driver/passenger. This would also put my load at twice the weight of the truck and again I stress you have to be able to stop.

jk
 

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