Need help choosing valves

[Downwesttexasway]

Hi,
Been lurking here for a long time and have gleamed some good info here, so I thought this would be a good place to ask.

I have built a compressed earth block machine, I am going to be using it to build my house here in south west Texas. When I originally designed this machine I planned to use a hydraulic power pack and used closed center electric valves to run the machine. Well one thing led to another and during my move to this area the power pack had to be abandoned because of it's size and weight. I am now planning to run the hydraulics off of my International 300U, I have a loader on it with a separate pump from the original system that I will be using the power beyond to power the block machine.

Now to my question, I have decided that I am going to abandon the electronic valves for standard mechanical spool valves since I have to change to open center valves. (Since I don't want to stall the pump I would have to add end stop sensors/switches along with switching to open center valves, just not worth the trouble to keep the electronic setup.) Anyway here is where I get sort of stuck, as I know what I want, but I'm not sure what they are called or described. I want a valve that I can put in the say UP position and it will stay there until the ram gets to the end of it's travel then kick to neutral, same with the other direction. I don't want to have to hold the valve by hand during the transition. So would this be a Pressure release detent, spring center to neutral, or a 3-pos. detent? I'm thinking pressure release, but at about $100 a pop I would like at least a second opinion that I'm going the right way!

Thanks in advance!:thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

Two way detent??
Prince Two-Way Detent Valve, Model# LS-3010-2 | Detent Valves| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Downwesttexasway]

I like Bailey valves, this is what I was thinking
Directional Control Valves LS3000 Series | Type 4-Way, 3-Pos. LS-3000-1 LOG SPLITTER VALVE 220-092

I think they are the same.

 

[LD1]

Not sure if that one is detent both directions. They are NOT the same valve. Look at the prince #

 

[J_J]

I believe you need the Prince auto valve.

You set both levers out and the log splitter valve sends the fluid to the cyl. and when the pressure meets the return limits, it automatically returns and then goes to neutral.

This valve with out PB.

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL PRINCE AUTO CYCLE LOG SPLITTER VALVE

This valve with PB.

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL PRINCE AUTO CYCLE LOG SPLITTER VALVE W/PB

There are other valves, and I will look for them.

 

[J_J]

I like Bailey valves, this is what I was thinking
Directional Control Valves LS3000 Series | Type 4-Way, 3-Pos. LS-3000-1 LOG SPLITTER VALVE 220-092

I think they are the same.

The LS-3000 log splitter valve is your common log splitter valve that is on millions of log splitters.

You manually hold the valve to extend the cyl, and snap it back into detent, and it retracts and then goes to neutral.

 

[Downwesttexasway]

I believe you need the Prince auto valve.

You set both levers out and the log splitter valve sends the fluid to the cyl. and when the pressure meets the return limits, it automatically returns and then goes to neutral.

This valve with out PB.

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL PRINCE AUTO CYCLE LOG SPLITTER VALVE

This valve with PB.

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL PRINCE AUTO CYCLE LOG SPLITTER VALVE W/PB

There are other valves, and I will look for them.

Close, but I do not want the cylinder to retract automatically, I simply want the valve to snap from detent to neutral at the end of the stroke.

A quick explanation of how the machine works:
1. Load dirt mix, close and latch lid. 2. Valve 1 to up position causing cylinder to compress dirt mix, at full extension of cylinder go to neutral. 3. Open lid, Valve 2 to up position ejecting bricks from machine, going to neutral at end of stroke. 4. Both valves to down position to reset machine, pop to neutral at end of stroke.

Hope this gives you a better idea of what I am trying to do, the cylinders will either be fully extended or fully collapsed in use.

 

[J_J]

If you go to neutral from compressed position, the valve flow now just flows through valve on to tank. The cyl will still be extended and fully compressed.

Is this what you want? You now have to retract the cyl for the next batch, and then go to neutral.

 

[Downwesttexasway]

If you go to neutral from compressed position, the valve flow now just flows through valve on to tank. The cyl will still be extended and fully compressed.

Is this what you want? You now have to retract the cyl for the next batch, and then go to neutral.

Yes exactly, I want the cylinder to fully extend and stay there in neutral, then I will retract it for the next cycle, but I need that detent in both directions as I will be busy with other operations and don't want to stand there holding a lever, just want to push it for up let it cycle, then later down and let it cycle.

I will be running two cylinders and two valves, one set will be for compression, the second for ejection. The ejection cylinder lifts the compression cylinder so I need it to stay extended in order for the brick to eject from the machine.

It is confusing to explain, if you were standing here with me looking at the machine, you'd go "oh yeah."

 

[BukitCase]

Made sense to me (I think :=) - basically, your eject cylinder is the "anchor point" for your compression cylinder - so after compression, the eject cylinder pushes on the compression cylinder's body and out comes the "brick" - then both collapse, and start a new cycle.

At least, I THINK that's what you described... Steve