Need help on my Mahindra 2015 engine

[purdy64]

Hi, I bought my Mahindra 2015 tractor new in 2005. The engine finally died and now I am stuck on how to even get it out. I have stripped all the panels and stuff off to get to the engine, but there are two issues that has stopped me cold.
I can not find any diagram/manual that shows how to actually seperate the engine from the manual transmission such as what bolts to remove and where. The second issue is, it has a Ansung loader, model AM20 that I am working around - fun.
On the right side of the tractor, there is an hydraulic unit that is bolted to the front block. It has a steel pipe that runs under the engine to the left side to another hydraulic block where the hoses for the loader connect to. Also, the block on the right has another steel pipe that runs back to the rear and a hose that goes to the center console area. I need to know how to disconnect this from the engine so that I can remove the engine without any damage to this unit. Any help / assistance will be so greatly appreciated.

 

[dickfoster]

Hi, I bought my Mahindra 2015 tractor new in 2005. The engine finally died and now I am stuck on how to even get it out. I have stripped all the panels and stuff off to get to the engine, but there are two issues that has stopped me cold.
I can not find any diagram/manual that shows how to actually seperate the engine from the manual transmission such as what bolts to remove and where. The second issue is, it has a Ansung loader, model AM20 that I am working around - fun.
On the right side of the tractor, there is an hydraulic unit that is bolted to the front block. It has a steel pipe that runs under the engine to the left side to another hydraulic block where the hoses for the loader connect to. Also, the block on the right has another steel pipe that runs back to the rear and a hose that goes to the center console area. I need to know how to disconnect this from the engine so that I can remove the engine without any damage to this unit. Any help / assistance will be so greatly appreciated.View attachment 496814View attachment 496815

From your questions it sounds to me like you're likely in over your head. You have to split the tractor to separate the engine and tranny. Tractor engines anent like automobile engines as the engine block and tranny case along with the rear axle and diff housing bolt together to form one single solid unit from which everything else mounts. The unit on the front is the gear driven hydraulic pump. If you didn't know this kinda stuff then I'd say you'd be better off finding a qualified tractor mechanic to take over. You need to at least get your hands on a set of service and parts manuals before proceeding any further.

 

[burzynsr]

Just wondering, what is your definition of "finally died"? How many hours on the machine?

 

[purdy64]

Well Im not over my head, just want to do this right. Not my first rodeo. As for hours on the tractor 4691 Hrs.

 

[jb1390]

Well Im not over my head, just want to do this right. Not my first rodeo. As for hours on the tractor 4691 Hrs.

What happened to the engine to lead you to believe it needs to come out completely?

Also, I think I'm with dickfoster on this one - the loader needs to come off first, then a bunch of bolt on parts. The engine is a structural part of the tractor - meaning you will need a nice surface and will need to split the tractor. The halves will be difficult to move. And then, the front will be difficult to balance when the motor is removed. You need a couple floor jacks, engine hoist, chain hoist, maybe a second machine, etc.

 

[burzynsr]

Ok, 4691 hours, I'll buy that as well worn. You may be able to make the repairs without removing the engine completely depending on what it needs.

 

[tkevan]

^^^
Agree. Not sure if the Mitsubishi engine is a wet sleeve, but if so, you can do a complete in-frame. Just roll the new mains in, replace the rods, rings and sleeves.

 

[DavesTractor]

That engine does not have replaceable sleeves. If the engine is low on compression or burning oil, I'd pull the head first and look at the cylinder walls. If they measure good, you might hone in place and do as tkevan suggests. Generally the rear cylinder has the most wear, measure it first. If it must be bored, then out it comes.