Need help sourcing parts for possible Hydrualic Stump Grinder build

[woodlandfarms]

So I have a couple of designs I am working on. One is a direct drive and one is getting a lovejoy or gear into the mix.

So. Here is what I need help on sourcing

A cheap (er) source for the actual grinder wheel. Lots of cool designs but those at this point won't pass the wifes budget she has allotted me. I am just looking for the standard hard disk, nothing fancy.

Second I need wheel hub sort of setup to attach the wheel to. This would be a direct drive, connected directly to maybe a 1" shaft motor. This could also be a keyed hub, but I can't seem to find a source.

In the other version, I would pillowblock on either end of the wheel and use a lovejoy so I could go with a larger shaft.

Now, I guess I can go to the local machine shop and have them whip this all up, but I was hoping someone has thought this through as well and has some cool sources that make it more bolt and play.

 

[CNC Dan]

How about using one end of a truck axle with full floating bearings?
Use the break housing mounting holes to mount it to the swing arm.
Should handle the speed, and radial loading, not sure about the side loads.

 

[J_J]

Surplus Center

 

[mbullism]

How about using one end of a truck axle with full floating bearings?
Use the break housing mounting holes to mount it to the swing arm.
Should handle the speed, and radial loading, not sure about the side loads.

I've had this running around my head a bit as well, not as a first line project but so as to maybe pick up the pieces as and if I run across them cheap... I figure it'll only take about 8 years, lol.

I'm thinking a straight car rear end, axles and housings cut short and rewelded. One side bolted or welded solid, the other to retain braking function.

The cutter seems like it needs to be heavy, like a manhole cover except not cast, for inertia... I've got a couple hundred carbide bits for my lathe I picked up cheap I figure to use as teeth.

fwiw

 

[CNC Dan]

I'm thinking a straight car rear end, axles and housings cut short and rewelded. One side bolted or welded solid, the other to retain braking function.

Not sure, but some lesser axles use a clip on the diff. end of the axle shaft to keep the shaft in the housing. And the bearings at the wheel end are counting on the diff. end of the shaft to be held in the right place. An axle with full floating bearings solves those problems.

I'm not sure, but a front wheel drive hub may work too.

 

[R W]

[QUOTE

I'm thinking a straight car rear end, axles and housings cut short and rewelded. One side bolted or welded solid, the other to retain braking function.


fwiw[/QUOTE]
The full floating bearing set up from a suitable size truck rear axle would be a lot stronger and less trouble than a shortened car diff.

 

[R W]

How about using one end of a truck axle with full floating bearings?
Use the break housing mounting holes to mount it to the swing arm.
Should handle the speed, and radial loading, not sure about the side loads.

They have tapered roller bearings so side loads shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Farmerford]

Woodland Farms:

I did something similar to what you are planning. I used a rotary mower gearbox.

You can get a 40hp gear box for $150 or so that will provide the input and output shaft, bearings, and mounting plate. THe common ratios are a two to one speed up and a one and one-half to one speed up (actually a little less in each case so that one gearset will have an odd number of teeth to make it hunt). Then you can use a hydraulic motor of say 3.5 cu in (just a guess) to get the final speed you desire. Generally, these motors are cheaper than the 5.0 cu in and larger motors that have two rows of tapered roller bearings on the shaft to tolerate a side load. Furthermore, I don't think even those motors (I am using Char-Lyn 2000 series motors that are made for a side load) will last long with a stump grinder wheel mounted directly to the shaft.

Couple the motor to the gearbox input shaft with a chain coupling.

The rotary mower gearboxes have an external tapered spline on the output shaft; hubs with an internal matching spline are readily available to weld the stumpjumper to. Instead of the stumpjumper, you can weld your wheel on to the hub.

The gearbox and hub together will cost less than $200. I don't believe you can build a separate shaft for much less than that; two quality pillow block bearings that tolerate an axial load, a keyed shaft, and a hub that probably has to be made specially made. And I question whether a keyed connection between the shaft and hub will be strong enough for good service. Furthermore, there is bound to be some axial load on the hub and set screws might not be strong enough to hold it.

The rotary mower gearbox is designed to handle all those loads.

The gearbox will of course be on its side, but you should be able to add new threaded holes for oil level and oil fill.