I have a 16 foot tandem axel trailor(7000lbs). I have to take my 2520 to the shop for some work tomorrow. I've searched and can't find any specific advice on how to strap the tractor down safely. I bought three 10,000 pound straps (3300 working). I also have a 5000 pound strap. My problem is where to run the straps. I know I need to cross the axle and have down force but every time a I do this the tires get in the way or I don't feel like I'm getting enough force to properly secure the tractor to the trailor. Is this a problem? I thought buying the straps was good but after researching I think I will get chains for the future. Won't help me tonight. Any advice in strapping the tractor down safely would be appreciated. I won't have any implement on. Thanks! Tony
Need help trailoring for the first time
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thatguy
Elite Member
Not an expert by any means.. But a lot of ppl like to tie down all four corners separately.. I have only used two chains previously (1 in the front, 1 in the rear) - but luckily never had chance to test out how good it holds.
On the front i would come off the axles to the front corners of the trailer (if you only use one strap you can go from one corner over the axle and down to the other corner). You probably want to cross the straps so you dont have tire interference.
One the rear i would either go from around the axles OR from the hitch (not the 3pt hitch) point. You will probably want to cross the straps as well.
good luck..
brian
On the front i would come off the axles to the front corners of the trailer (if you only use one strap you can go from one corner over the axle and down to the other corner). You probably want to cross the straps so you dont have tire interference.
One the rear i would either go from around the axles OR from the hitch (not the 3pt hitch) point. You will probably want to cross the straps as well.
good luck..
brian
Jaylegger
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The attached load securement standard is pretty much the North American standard.
http://ca.wrs.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0oG73FGQudLt2oBuS7rFAx.;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnRlBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=127rb6qjh/EXP=1273533382/**http%3a//www.ccmta.ca/english/pdf/Standard%252010.pdf
With respect to criss-crossing, I see no benefit unless used for strap clearance purposes. I would expect criss crossing straps is less safe than not. Should one strap break the additional length required for x-crossing potentially allows considerably more movement of the load.
http://ca.wrs.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0oG73FGQudLt2oBuS7rFAx.;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnRlBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=127rb6qjh/EXP=1273533382/**http%3a//www.ccmta.ca/english/pdf/Standard%252010.pdf
With respect to criss-crossing, I see no benefit unless used for strap clearance purposes. I would expect criss crossing straps is less safe than not. Should one strap break the additional length required for x-crossing potentially allows considerably more movement of the load.
rekees4300
Elite Member
Nylon ratchet straps are out. You need good 3/8" chain with hooks On the rear put a clevis thru the drawbar (not the 3pt) and on the front if no hitch for backing is installed chain around the axle (use towels, blankets, or the short heavy nylon straps with steel ring from trailer suppliers to protect the paint). The pockets on the trailer you attach the chain to need to be at lest 1' behind the rear clevis and 1' in front of the front clevis. The chain should be fed down through the pocket and the hook brought up so that it hangs down on the side of the pocket. This will keep the chain from unhooking if it happens to go slack. The 1' or more will make the chains tight against each other. Never tie straight down. Binders - 2 types are brake over and screw. The screw type are safer to use and can be gotten tighter but they cost more. If you use the brake over type be sure to tie the handle closed with a steel wire or wrap the extra chain around the handle and binder so it will not pop open. Go down the road a mile or so and stop to check your load, the chains should still be tight,if not redo the binders. The chains, even on rough roads, should have no slack.
whistlepig
Elite Member
On the front I have a heavy metal plate for attaching weights under the radiator. I chain the front down by looping a chain over this plate. On the rear I have a large clevis attached to the drawbar. I loop a chain through this clevis. I angle the chains away from the tractor on both ends. When I tighten the rear chain it pulls the front chain tight. I use chains and ratchet type chain booms. I don't like straps because they will stretch and loosen. Chains stay tight.
Jaylegger
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Not true, webbed straps are perfectly fine.
Jaylegger
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The tie-down fact from fiction issue has recently been discussed in following thread.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/166964-chains-binders-should-i-use.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/166964-chains-binders-should-i-use.html
The regulations I find state that under 10,000 lbs., two tie downs are sufficient. Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration Parts 393.128 and 393.130. Of course you can always use four.
Trails2004
Gold Member
I dont think webbed straps are the same as ratchet straps- right :thumbsup:
Jaylegger
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Not true
, rekees4300 posted that nylon ratchet straps are out. By "nylon" he is referring to what is also known as "webbed" straps therefore, for tie down purposes, they are one and the same ratcheted or not.