Tiller Need help w/ my tiller

[TxFig]

This is my first post to this forum. Be gentle.. :licking:

I have a PTO driven tiller that I had to have some work done on (the frame was breaking and had to get it welded). In taking it apart, I ran across another, potentially more serious problem - but I'm not sure. Therefore, I am including pics in the hope someone can guide me a bit.

The first 2 pics are just of the tiller, to give an idea of what it is.

This one is the only markings which give an indication of the model number:

Now for the problem: I think there is a broken piece (or if it's not broken, I don't have a clue how it attaches) in the gear box on the side:

See the slotted bolt? I am pretty sure that this next piece goes in there somehow...

 

[TxFig]

To follow-up:

(1) Any idea what make/model tiller this is?

(1b) Any idea where to get a parts diagram?


(2) how does that (I assume) broken part attach?

 

[Cam-Saskatoon Canada]

I can't help you on the model number or make, but I can give you some info on my rototiller. On mine, there is a post in about the same place as yours with a gear on it. The post can be moved so that the gear takes up the slack in the chain so the chain doesn't jump off the other two gears. I can only assume that the curved piece of steel you have somehow rubs against the chain in such a fashion to accomplish the same thing. The curly thing might be some kind of spring to keep the tension on. Hope this helps.

 

[Hughman]

quick google search comes up with Agritec Tiller (Model AT20120)

 

[Hughman]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/162270-chain-tensioner-adjustment-agritec-tiller.html


http://www.gramip.hr/AT20_01.pdf

 

[CharlieS]

I'm not familiar with all the different brands of tillers, however i'm somewhat experienced with chain drives on farm equipment.
It looks like a broken chain tensioner. The D portion fits in the slotted fitting, and the curved portion (It should be all one piece by the way) is adjusted to take most of the slop out of the chain. There should be a pin or perhaps a set screw to hold the D portion of the adjuster in the slot. It needs to be held in by some method at least.
I'd guess theres a nut on the back side of the slotted bolt that you can loosen and adjust the curved portion of the part to run against the chain to take up the slack.
Rather an unusual adjuster that i've never run across before, i've never seen a metal cam such as this for an adjuster. Usually they will be an idler gear or a wooden block to help prevent excessive wear.

It looks like, lacking a parts book, you'll have to have the two pieces welded back together and determine how its held in the slotted bolt to allow adjustment.

 

[TxFig]

Wow - that was a fast response! :thumbsup:

Yes, a tensioner for the chain makes sense (and yes, there is a bolt on the other side to adjust it).

The funny thing is, I really don't think it's even necessary. When the drive shaft is attached, the chain is fairly tight to the teeth (in fact, it's pretty much impossible to get off without disassembling it entirely). I can't imagine that the tensioner is actually doing much...

 

[Johndeere3720]

Wow - that was a fast response! :thumbsup:

Yes, a tensioner for the chain makes sense (and yes, there is a bolt on the other side to adjust it).

The funny thing is, I really don't think it's even necessary. When the drive shaft is attached, the chain is fairly tight to the teeth (in fact, it's pretty much impossible to get off without disassembling it entirely). I can't imagine that the tensioner is actually doing much...

It is doing some though. When your chain is rotating the motion pulls the chain away from the gears so the tensioner is there to ensure that no gears will be damaged y the chain and to keep teh chain from excessively wearing the gears or vice verse.

 

[wrenchturner]

To me it looks like the small part and large part were one piece acting like a spring with the long part pushing against the chain. I believe the chain cover held the broken off D in the slot. To assemble the spring tensioner, the slotted bolt was loosened to allow the D part to slide into the slot. Then, the slotted bolt was turned to press the tensioner part onto the chain then locked down.

The D part broke off due to the stress point from flexing being there.

Don't know for sure but I believe I am right.

 

[j boden jr]

I have a KMC with the chain drive like yours. The design is almost identical, where you have your slotted shaft I have achain tensioner that extends through the frame with a spring attached to provide tension. I wouldn't be surprised if this is what you have.