need help with 7610S hyd remotes

[Soundguy]

Got my remote valve body back from dealer today after 67$ worth of work.. 1 remote still doesn't work.. so Know they will have to pick up my tractor to diagnose it on the tractor.. Should pick it up later this week. Boy I see this is getting expensive.

Soundguy

 

[jimg]

What was done to the valve body? Did something need to be fixed or did they rebuild/recondition it? If the former perhaps its a problem w/ more than one cause?

 

[Soundguy]

I'm assuming they just disassembled, inspected and cleaned it.

Problem was 1 valve was not working.. the other valve works fine. Can't be anything other than in that valve pack, as with 1 valve working, I know the hydro pump on the tractor is good.

Soundguy

 

[jimg]

What difference(s) are there between deluxe and std remotes?

Are there any electronics in the system? Im thinking sensors that actuate mechanical controls.

In your testing did you try each remote independently and together? Sometimes a system seems OK if each part is tested alone but fails if tested as a whole. In other words the system is healthy enough to run a single remote but not both together. In your case will the good remote still work properly if both are pressurized?

Is the relief also in the valve pack you had worked on? If not I assume youve pryed into them and verified they work ok.

I know this is a reach but could a bad connector cause this problem or perhaps a partially clogged line? In the later case Im thinking that when the remote is activated gunk gets pushed to a place where it causes blockage but settles back out of the way once pressure is relieved.

Is it possible to place a pressure gauge at various pts in the system to see where the loss is occuring? It would be real interesting to see what the pressure is at the remote when its activated.

I suppose there must be a siingle pressure adjustment for both valves?

 

[Soundguy]

I don't know what the difference is on the standard valves, vs deluxe.. only that my 7610s has the deluxe.

I'll try to answer your questions in order..

No electronics... it is just 2 levers, a hyd supply line from the pump, and a return to sump line.. also has a small pilot line going to the trans somewhere.

Remote 1 works fine. I have a batwing with 2 lines... wings are on 1 line.. tail wheels onthe other. Either of those lines work on remote 1.. remote 2 will not do anything with either of them. On remote 1, when cyl max travel is reached, the valve pops back to neutral like it is suposed to. on remote 2, if you move it to lift.. it stays there.. the line pulses a bit.. and nothing... doesn't pop back to neutral.. etc.

Doesn't matter if you have both remotes hooke dup or not.. only 1 works. Looks to be plenty of flow for both remotes, as you have to turnt he flow control down to 'turtle'. or the wings shoot up like it was a bird flapping it's wings..

The relief is int he valve pack as far as i can tell.

I thought about the bad connector.. but don't see how it could be, as both connectors work fine on remote 1.

A gauge could be used to test.. and that's what NH is taking the tractor in fo, as they could not test the valve pack by itself on the bench.

Pump and relief will controll the pressure for both valves.. but there are individual flow controls for each.

Soundguy

 

[jimg]

Just for reference I think knowing the differnce would be good. Is it just a matter of heavier or differ design? This may shed some light on the problem.

Whats the purpose of the pilot line?

The relief isnt in the valve pack...if it were to trip at a pressure well under normal would it trip the lever back to neutral?

There are 2 sides to the connector...I was thinking about the tractor side of the bad remote...

Are gauges expensive? I think w/ as many tractors as you have getting one might pay off in $$$ and peace of mind. Then again buying one might ward off anymore problems...like umbrealls and rain.

I wondered if each had its owm flow control...I wonder if thats where the problem is. I take it that you didnt mess w/ this control.

Ill be interested in the followup posting when you get the tractor back.

 

[Soundguy]

Again.. I'll try to answer in order.

I havn't a clue about the 'non deluxe units. All the TN and similar model tractors to my 7610s seem to have this 'deluxe' design. The only thing I have to compair to is the remote on my 1975 ford 5000.. no frills.. just a hyd valve on the hyd cover.. etc.

I think the pilot line provides pressure for the independent pto clutch.. though I don't have a complete parts breakdown of that area to be sure.

Actually.. i do think the relief is built in to the valve pack.. And yes. once the cylinder reaches it's end of travel, the valve detent kicks out and lets the valve go to neutral. .. On the good one anyway..

No.. gauges aren't that expensive.. however.. I doub't one would tell me anything more than I can already observe... 1 remote is getting sufficient operating pressure.. the other remote is putting out some pressure.. but not sufficient pressure... the oil is just being dumped back to sump.. either thru a bad check /diverter or a stuck relief...( my guess )

Yes.. as I stated in my previous post.. each valve has it's own flow control.. and yes.. i changed them.. that wouldn't effect this problem... I'm have a low pressure problem.. not a low flow.

Besides.. both I and the dealer have had the top of the valve body apart.. that controlls the detent, spool, and flow control. The lower portion of the valve body I believe has the diverter/priority/check and relief valve... that one is very difficult to get into.. I dind't mess with it.. and dealer didn't take it apart yet.. wanted to have the tractor with it before checking the relief and check valves.. etc.

Info as it comes.

Soundguy