Need help with new well pump and expansion tank install.

[clovergamecock]

Hi,

I have the new pump wired in. It had the same wires as last time so I just wired it back the same using the old one as a guide. The new expansion tank is in and I hooked one side up at a time so I could reference which wire went where for each side. So from a connection standpoint I beleive I am good.

If I flip the breaker to check that the motor comes on nothing happenes. The expansion tank IS NOT pressurized yet. Does it need to have air pressure in it before the pump will come on?


Pump is new, Expansion tank is new and the pressure switch is new.

Thanks
Wade

 

[dave1949]

I don't think so, but there is no reason not to put air in it before water.

If you manually close the pressure cut-in, cut-out solenoid using a well insulated screwdriver, and your wiring is correct, the pump should come on.

 

[TheGoose]

Make sure you are getting the full 220V to the pump. Pressure switch should be wired like this (LineIN)(MotorLead)(MotorLead)(LineIN)

 

[N7943h]

Blackrat,

As for pressure in the tank......if it is the style of tank that has a bladder...it will come from the factory with some air pressure in it already but you will need to make sure that it matches the settings on your pressure switch. Your pressure switch may have a cover over the switch that you can remove and read the small print on the label under the cover. There should be a couple of pressures listed there. One will cut in and the other cut out ( or similar wording). Common switches in this part of the county are 20/40, 30/50, and 40/60. The pressure in your tank needs to adjusted to 2 psi less than the CUT IN PRESSURE SETTING OF YOUR SWITCH. You need to check this with a low pressure air gage while there is no water pressure on the system. There will be a small nipple like a bicycle valve stem some where on the tank and perhaps hidden under a plastic cover that you use to check the pressure and add air. Checking this pressure needs to become part of you annual chores as the air bleed off just like your tractor tires. Trust me when I say that 90% of the folks reading this have low air pressure in there tanks
Some pressure switch have a little lever on the side of the that look like the ones on the pressure switches on air compressors. This is a safety device that will not allow the pump to start unless there is 10 psi in the system and prevent your pump from running while there is no water. You must manually hold that lever in the center position until the system pressure gets above 10 psi then you can release it. Your pressure switch may have that feature. Good luck
Mr.Logan

 

[clovergamecock]

Mr. Logan. I have the switch with the lever on it. I verified that both switch and pump have power before I put it down in the well. Now based on what you are saying the well pump will not come on until there is a minimum of 10psi in the well supply line. Right now I have 0 pressure and flipping the little switch back and forth doesn't do anything. So are you saying I need to manually hold the switch half way between the 2 positions and the line will start to pressurize?

Thanks
Wade

 

[N7943h]

Blackrat
Yes you do have to hold it in the middle. Leave the cover off the pressure switch and be careful not to touch any of the electrical contacts or wires. Make sure you can see well , flashlight or whatever, and as you move that lever you should see the contacts close as you pass thru the center position. The contacts should spark some. You need to hold the lever in that position that holds the contacts closed until the pump builds up the pressure in the system above 10psi. It will stay on and you can then release it. Make sure the system can pressurize meaning valves are closed so pressure will build.
Mr. Logan

 

[TheGoose]

Ah, the old low-pressure switch. Get rid of it, it's more a nuisance than anything else.

 

[clovergamecock]

Ok so hold it in the center position manually and make sure the contacts are closed correct. How long should it take to build? I am assuming a while since the well is 320' deep??

 

[clovergamecock]

Finally!! I have water!! I am not sure that this bladder tank is good or not so I need to watch it. I am not seeing any water coming out of the valve but I thought I saw the air pressure go down. Of course I was so tired that I probably could not see straight. I do have a couple more questions. I am not sure I have the settings rights. I have 50 PSI from the well to the tank. The tank has 45psi in it. I have the same pressure now as I had before the pump went out. However the expansion tank that was in it oigionally was a 20 gal. The one I put back is atleast twice that size. I had to use the same reg from the old 20 gal so I am sure it is wrong. With the bigger tank should I see more water pressure if I had the right reg for the tank and what should inlet pressure be and what should tank psi be?

Thanks
Wade

 

[N7943h]

Congrats on the water. That sure does make life easier.
Go back and read my first post about the correct air pressure in the tank. This is a very important set to have your well work correctly. Remembering that you must check the air pressure with No Water Pressure. No a big deal now that you know how to restart the well after the pressure drops below the magical 10 psi. I would not remove that switch because it is working as designed and may very well safe you the price so a pump when things go wrong. I take a felt pen and write the instructions right on the pressure tank to remind me that that feature is there and how to restart the well.
The size of the pressure tank has NOTHING to do with the pressure in the system. The pressure switch controls that. A larger tank will reduce the number of starts and stops the pump will have to endure and will provide with less spikes in pressure as the pump starts less often. The water pressure in the system will fluctuate between the cut in pressure( lowest) and the cut out (highest) pressure that the switch is rated for. Alway set the tank air pressure to match the switch parameters.