Need Help With Next Attachments

[jeff9366]

Somewhat incomplete presentation of tractor implements:
LINK: http://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media/...aa214276e14dacb/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf

 

[GeneDoc]

Jeff,
Your consulting has been invaluable, so I hope you get enough thanks. The PDF you provided is terrific. I had tried a search (truly) but somehow didn't see good answers. Perhaps just not enough coffee.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/21507-draft-control-when-how-why.html
The videos look good. Reminds me of when I rented a skid-steer that had bucket control for leveling. I'm almost certain my tractor doesn't have it. One of the videos shows where the control would be, saying most compact tractors simply have a gap where that control is and I do have that gap. I looked in the manual and didn't see anything in the index about it either. I'll try plowing a bit to see if I miss it. When I've used the boxblade, I certainly missed it, as I was recalling fondly how the skid-steer had done better with leveling.

Guess I'll call the shop where I got the tractor and ask what it costs to install.... Why didn't anyone tell me tractors are a money pit as bad as my house? Purely attempting to be funny.
Mike

 

[jeff9366]

One of the videos shows where the draft control would be, saying most compact tractors simply have a gap where that control is and I do have that gap. I looked in the manual and didn't see anything in the index about it either. I'll try plowing a bit to see if I miss it.

Draft control is the first line of defense against going vertical on your tractor when using a moldboard plow in rocky ground. As an option included with my tractor order, draft control was $500 in 2013. Much cheaper than a funeral.

Disc Plows tend to roll over subterranean rocks and roots.

I fuel and grease my tractor. All service and repairs by Kubota or my local welding shop. (I am too old to loosen many fittings.) I figure operating cost of my L3560 is $35 per engine hour. This includes depreciation on numerous implements as part of tractor operating cost.

Cheaper than boats.

 

[sloeffle]

IMHO, a HST tractor is not built to pull a moldboard plow. I'd also venture to guess that it will be everything your tractor wants to pull a 2-14 plow in your soil. I have a 60HP 1959 Ford that was built for plowing and it is everything it can do to pull a 3 - 14 plow. I'd stick with a harley rake or a rototiller.

I live in corn and bean country, no one uses a plow to prepare their fields anymore. All of the moldboard plows are sitting in the hedge fence row rusting away. Everything is no-tilled in or minimum tillage is done. A pretty big farmer told my buddy's dad that they have fields that haven't been worked in 25 years. They just no-till everything in. When you have tractors that use 200+ gallons of diesel a day, every pass costs money.

 

[oldnslo]

What kind of tires are on your Kubota? Industrial R4 or Ag? For tillage work ag provide the most traction.

I am a fan of mold board plows vs tillers. Tillers don稚 like large rocks or tall grass & vines.

Small chisel plow might also work and these will definitely pull up the rocks.

Any farmers in your area that would plow this for you in the fall?

Let sit over the winter and disc in the spring.

 

[GeneDoc]

I talked to my Kubota dealer. He gave me some interesting insights:

1. He said my tractor already is set up with draft control and it's not available as an add-on to what I already have. He said there is a dial/knob to set the lower end of the travel and the lever sets the upper end. I have since been on my tractor and confirmed the presence of what he noted.
2. He suggested I would be able to work a 12" 2-bottom plow, but was very cautious saying I'd be taxing what my machine could do. So, not impossible, but may be on the edge of the machine's capability. When I asked about a 1-bottom, he said I'd be able to run one without a problem.
3. I'm familiar with using a walk-behind tiller and I have even used one on the land. My soil is so hard that the tiller has a hard time cutting in. Now, I realize it's apples and oranges to compare a PTO-driven tiller and a "portable" version, but I wonder if the tiller would be able to cut into my soil very well. I'm also frankly concerned about getting something with too many moving parts that are more prone to problems if I hit rocks.
4. I believe I have R1 tires. When I compare picts of R1 vs R4, it seems the tread depth is taller on the R1's and I am pretty sure that's what I have.
5. I don't live close enough to an active farm, nor I have spoken to a farmer in the area, to get local help. Besides, I'd feel like a pest for asking for help with such a small area.

Thanks. So, I'm still leaning towards a 1-bottom. I do have some chisels I'm curious about running over the land and see what they do, though I doubt they'll be nearly as effective as a 1-bottom.