Need help with post driver

[jazzrider]

Hello all.....new to forum and seeking help. I have a Shaver HD8 post driver being used to set 4x4x8 posts in very sandy soil (Washington County, Texas). What are the tricks to driving a post in straight? I've tried leveling the driving ram alone, leveling the post alone, and leveling the post and the ram. I've tried just tapping the post in a few inches to set it in place before dropping the full weight. The post starts out good but invariably ends up skewing away from the driver at the top. There is a safety arm on this unit which, in my opinion, puts too much inward pressure on the post too low. But I talked to Shaver and it is properly located. I've also tried tapping it in a few inches BEFORE setting the safety arm and it didn't work any better. I've also tried centering the post in the driver channel as well as keeping it flush against one wall. And I've tried tilting the top of the driver out (away from tractor) a tad at Shaver's suggestion. None of this is working satisfactorily. All advice/comments on using this equipment would be appreciated!

 

[CATMAN]

My Dad has an old shaver HD-8 (no safety arm attachment). Dad uses a gloved left hand to hold the post inward. We only have experience in Iowa soils with 5", 6", 8" diameter posts for fence. We do use a level on the post and the post driver, but we do leave the top of the driver away from the tractor a little (feel it helps hold the post inward towards the "back" of the driver). Dad hand digs 2-3" into the soil (with a tile spade) before placing the post so the bottom doesn't bounce around during the start of pounding.

Now, if we have two people during the job and we see the post starting to go cockeyed, I will use a 4 1/2 foot 2x4 to push the post(close to the top) or at least keep pressure on it during the rest of the pounding. This does help.​

As far as the amount of forward tilt on the driver itself, I will estimate that Dad has the top of the post touching the inside and the bottom of the actual driver(heavy,moveable ram) is about 1/2 -1" away from that side of that post. It is probably more tilt than a "tad" that you mentioned. Round fence post probably aren't as critical as square post you are trying to install, but we still like a nice looking, straight fenceline. Also, If a post really start going one direction, we will reposition the tractor to hold the top of the post where we want it (if room allows). This is with a front mount style driver on a JD 4020.

Also with two people, that second person is always eyeballing both directions(East/West and North/South) during the pounding to see if we need to start using the 2x4 method.​

Most of our fence has been done with three people. Dad=digger and master pounder; brother=post carrier and 2x4 operator; myself=tractor driver and eyeballer.

 

[deereguy]

I am getting ready to be in the same position, driving a bunch of 5" round posts. Fall of 2005, drove quite a few and only a few were straight, it was all new to us on how to keep them straight. Now I have talked to numerous people and done my own research and came up with the idea of drilling a 2" diameter hole first, using a one person post hole digger, and seeing how that works, no one I talked to mentioned that idea, but most agreed it should work.

Shaver HD10 mounted on a Gehl 4610 Skid Loader

 

[MikePA]

I drove the same kind of posts, 4 x 4 x 8, and I always;

1. Leveled the driver using the bubble level
2. Dropped the driver to the ground
3. Verified it was still level, if not adjust.
4. Leveled the post in the channel
5. Drove the post in.

Most went in straight, the ones that did not hit something underground that caused them to go off course. If that happens, no amount of pressure from the post driver is going to keep them straight.

 

[SPYDERLK]

jazzrider, I cobbed together a post holder out of oak boards, 10" pneumatic wheels, and vise grip clamps, and a piece of 1" angle. The boards are clamped to the stationary Shaver frame and extend back beyond the driver. The wheels are on an axle that is a L shape concrete anchor bolt. The L side is clamped to the angle that extends past the end of one of the boards and the thread side is nutted to protect threads and is clamped to the other board. The tires are in between. Adjustment against driver is by clamp position of axle.

Works great. Took about an hour to conceive and perfect . I had everything so it cost nothing.
larry

 

[jazzrider]

SPYDRLK.....do you by chance have a pic of this holder?

 

[SPYDERLK]

SPYDRLK.....do you by chance have a pic of this holder?

No, but it is still on the post driver so its a possibility. I might as well try to figure out picture posting. I know its a lot less intuitive than mechanics. Ill get my wife to help. Later today, or maybe tomorrow.
larry

 

[jazzrider]

Thanks Larry. It'll be great if you can get some pics posted when you have a chance. BTW, does this post holder work if the ground is not flat?

 

[SPYDERLK]

jazzrider, I took pictures. Ill get my wife to help me put them on tomorrow. I have had no trouble with it on slopes. It will be a matter of degree tho. The holder is on the stationary frame - not the gimbal, so the driver hammer pivots wrt holder as you adjust for vertical. Not optimum at extreme adjustments, but causes more visual than actual problem.
larry

 

[jazzrider]

Super! I'll look forward to seeing the pictures. Most of my slopes are gentle so this sounds like it might work for me. Most of my post driving will be done without anyone else's help so I need as much "mechanical help" via jigs to act as additional hands.

 

[SPYDERLK]

jazzrider, here are pictures of the post holder. Too ugly to not work. A lot of money in clamps [1 missing from rt] but quick on/off. You may want to use bolts in several places instead. I think it will be hard to find a substitute for the axle clamps. The last is showing my use of a length of good quality garden hose for the dump line. Easier to handle and less restriction than hyd hose and fittings. I used 3/4" nipples in 5/8 hose to further reduce flow restriction.
larry

 

[drssg]

Are you using square posts? I've never tried it, but people I've spoken with suggest only driving round posts, because the post can turn as you drive it.

A guy that drives posts for a fence company, showed me how to use wedges to straighten the posts that go in crooked. I use scrap pieces of 4x4 and cut them into wedges with a chainsaw. The first cut goes from the a corner of the 4x4 to a point about 18" up the post. This creates a wedge that is 18" long and goes from 4" wide to a point. Then I cut straight across the 4x4 to make the second wedge and keep repeating the process.

To use the wedges, I carefully use the front end loader to pull the post a little past straight. Then drive the wedge next to the post with a sledge hammer. That has worked pretty well for me.

 

[jazzrider]

Great pics Larry! Thanks so much. Something like this just might be the trick I need. The safety arm attachment on my unit holds the post against the driver near the bottom but I need something higher up (other than my hand) to keep the top of the post from being pushed out by the tension created by the safety arm. If I can get the wheels mounted high enough, this could work. I'll let you know.

drssg.....I am using square posts as I have 500 of them sitting in my barn at the present moment. Haven't had a problem with any turning yet. The wedge idea is a good one if I can't get Larry's idea to work the way I need it to.

 

[Farmerford]

Spyderlk:

That's a great setup. No cost, no time wasted on the cosmetics: it just works!

You have given me an idea. I am going to paint some of my tools like you did your Vise-Grips and clamps. It will make them easier to find in a pile and may discourage borrowing.

One thing I can't figure out is the bottle stopper on the grasshopper on your third link pin. Maybe you were carrying refreshments and the bottle spun off.

HaHa

 

[SPYDERLK]

Farmerford, Actually its a vinyl cap with a loop, and has a washer jammed over it. It plugs the garden hose when I store the PD. Powder Blue tools will grab your eye. Much easier to find them when they fall off - if not buried you wont miss em no matter what time of year! I paint my chains too - over and over.
larry

 

[kiyiya]

I always sharpen my square posts with a cahinsaw before I start to drive them. At first I just sharpened 2 sides but the posts had a tendency to lean toward the shapest angled cut so I started sharpening all 4 sides to offset that problem. They go in much straighter with the 4 angled cuts but will still twist and turn if they hit an underground obstruction. It sure would be nice to have a post sharpener like a great big pencil sharpener to make sure all sides are perfect!