need one more summer from clutch

[mffarmall]

Hi everyone,

Well I was working on my 4x4 when I needed to mow one time before taking things apart. I adjusted my clutch and had enough to put it into gear. But pto will not turn. I did adjust this to help get me some more clutch. I can understand the nuts to adjust the pto clutch but I can not understand how to adjust the arms. I think I just need to play with them to get them to move. How do the pto arms adjust.

And how much is a new clutch, just parts.

 

[RonMar]

The arm adjustment bolts/studs are spring loaded and you adjust those to control the gap between the end of the lever arms and the face of the throwout bearing when the pedal is all the way up. this basically adjusts the pedal freeplay. There was just a recent thread about clutch adjustment where I went over how I do it...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/279294-jinma-2425-clutch-stop-bolt.html

 

[mffarmall]

Got it about the bolt and arm. I am thinking that I might have switched up the way to push the pto clutch out. When I shortened the distance for the engine clutch. I probably got the direction to move the bolts backwards. Should I loosen or tighten the bolts to compensate for the engine clutch. It's like trying to turn in reverse and getting all screwed up.

 

[mffarmall]

reset everything and I can move but no pto. If I force the pto in it should start to turn?

 

[RonMar]

Reread the ENTIRE procedures described in the link. That is the whole adjustment. You work from the top of the pedal down, just like it works in operation. The levers lift the main clutch block, and the main clutch block when lifted far enough, lifts the PTO clutch block. You set the space between the lever ends and the bearing at about .1" this gives you a little more than 1" of pedal freetravel before the bearing contacts the levers, and the main gearbox clutch should be completely disengaged by just above 1/2 pedal travel. You then hold the pedal all the way down. I use a ratchet strap to do this. You engage the PTO gearbox and try and spin the pto shaft at the back by hand. you adjust the PTO nuts in the clutch pack till you can just start to turn the PTO shaft by hand, IE pto clutch fully disengaged at the bottom of pedal travel.

This should yield a PTO fully engaged at right below 1/2 travel on the pedal... You want to make adjustments to the 3 adjuster nuts for each cluch equally. After you are done, you need to make sure the adjusters are tensioned the same and lifting the clutch assemblies equally. This is where the ratchet really comes in handy...

 

[greg_g]

I agree with Ron, you really need to start over from scratch. The operation of a two stage clutch is sequential, as is the alignment procedure. When initially aligned properly, one should only have to adjust occasionally for normal plate and finger wear. But unless one is quite familiar with when/how/where to perform these otherwise simple adjustments, it's counterproductive to wade in blindly. What I'm reading now reads like you've put yourself into a position where a realignment is now necessary. Not a bad job on the bench or flywheel., but both methods require splitting the tractor. Trying to do it through the inspection window however, adds a considerable degree of difficulty (and frustration).

//greg//

 

[quicksandfarmer]

The clutch has two disks and two pressure plates, for drive and PTO. The clutch pedal is connected to the plate for the drive clutch. The plate for the drive clutch is connected to the plate for the PTO clutch by three bolts, but there is some play in those bolts. So the drive clutch can move a bit before it starts pulling on the PTO clutch. So when you push on the pedal, first it moves the drive plate. Once the play in the bolts is taken up, the PTO plate moves too.

There are two adjustments you need to make. There has to be a gap between clutch fork (the thing the pedal moves when you push on it) and the clutch bearing, so that there is no force on the bearing unless you're pushing the clutch. Otherwise the life of the bearing will be short. There also needs to be a gap on the bolts that connect the PTO plate to the drive plate, so that the PTO clutch doesn't release until the pedal is most of the way down. These gaps have to be a specific size, and they have to be the same on all three fingers. As the clutch plates wear the gaps change so the clutches need to be adjusted periodically.

If the pto clutch is slipping it means the gap is too small (or there is a problem that adjustment won't fix. On my tractor I spent a lot of time adjusting the gap, only to find that the problem was the pto clutch spring).

Adjusting through the inspection port is tedious, but possible. Don't ask me how I know, but the biggest mistake you can make is to drop your wrench into the hole! I had to bribe my ten year old son to put his hand in and get it out. If you don't have a ten-year-old handy, tie a string to your wrench!

You might have to adjust the clutch stop as well as the disks wear.

 

[cleat]

Adjusting through the inspection port is tedious, but possible. Don't ask me how I know, but the biggest mistake you can make is to drop your wrench into the hole! I had to bribe my ten year old son to put his hand in and get it out. If you don't have a ten-year-old handy, tie a string to your wrench!

Yes, I dropped a wrench as well, your heart just stops when you imagine having to split the tractor just to get it out. A magnet and lots of luck got mine out.

Cleat

 

[RonMar]

You will also probably have to modify a metric open end wrench, grinding it down narrow enough to fit in and adjust the nuts. Forget which size, it may be 18MM. I will look and confirm that ths afternoon. Working thru the inspection port is not all that bad(only way I have ever done it). with the compression release open, I can roll it over easilly using the handle of a 1/2" breaker bar. When I initially got my tractor I dug into the clutch to confirm the adjustment. At that time I labeled the adjusters where the levers are connected "A", "B" and "C", and the 3 PTO adjusters "1", "2" and "3" with a sharpie marker. Marks were still clearly legible. This really helps keep track of what you are doing in there. About 3 weeks ago, I thought I might be having a PTO problem as the chipper RPM was falling off under load, but the RPM was remaining constant(440 hours on the clock). Well I got back in there and confirmed the adjustment and could find nothing wrong with the clutch(discs looked good, no excessive wear apparent). Come to find out, the belts on the chipper were a little loose and allowing the slip under heavy load. My loader subframe does have separate legs so I only have to drop one side of my loader subframe to access a port which only takes a few minutes...