Need paint advice.. Brush guard on Kubota

[Cavjock22]

Welded expanded metal onto my brush guard. Painted with rust o leum from tractor supply.. Any advise on a clear coat type protection? Your tips is greatly appreciated

 

[WranglerX]

Rust-oleum also make a clear enamel.... Never though I needed to clear coat any Rust-oleum products, just spray on the color and walk away....

Dale

 

[oosik]

I will say - your brush guard looks like mine. The welding shop used powder coat on mine. Looks fantastic - when new. However - it chips quite easily. I should have had them use a standard water soluble paint or something like that. A project for some later date.


View attachment 581436

 

[Cavjock22]

I will say - your brush guard looks like mine. The welding shop used powder coat on mine. Looks fantastic - when new. However - it chips quite easily. I should have had them use a standard water soluble paint or something like that. A project for some later date.


After studying yours.. I might add some steel to cover a bit of the lower part.. I have the cwt bumper so my bottom has a little protection from that but still susceptible in the middle..

View attachment 581436

After studying yours.. I might add some steel to cover a bit of the lower part.. I have the cwt bumper so my bottom has a little protection from that but still susceptible in the middle

 

[oosik]

Nothing will ever be 100% but every little bit helps. Mine will hinge open until the "tongue" touches on the lower expanded metal portion. This means mine will open til the top part is almost perfectly horizontal.

 

[ZTMAN]

I would not clear coat it. Would make it more difficult for touch ups. I used the rustoleum semi gloss rattle cans for the mesh on my trailer sides. Every year I touch up a few areas and they look oem.
I would just keep a spray can of kubota orange on hand and go from there.

 

[ray66v]

Rustoleum, is industrial enamel.

Industrial enamel is the cheapest paint out there. Therefore, it is the lowest quality product you can use.

That being said, it can produce acceptable results, if used properly.

The biggest problem with industrial enamel is, it will not achieve any degree of hardness, until all the solvents evaporate out of it. Once it's cured, it can hold up fairly well, with the proper prep, and undercoats, (primers).

Since it's cheap paint, the solvents are of poor quality. So, they don't evaporate quickly.

If the paint is applied in heavy coats, the solvents get trapped inside, and that slows the curing process. Those solvents evaporate better, if the paint is applied in lighter coats, and allowed to flash, (dry), the recommend time between coats. Applying too many coats, will also slow the curing process.

Baking the item at 150F, (for about 8 hours), or simply putting it out in the sun on hot days will drive the solvents out, and help you get a full cure faster. It can still take months for all the solvents to come out, in warmer temperatures. You could also force dry it with a heater. Again, try for a metal temp of 150F. Keep an eye on it, get it too hot, and you will damage the paint.

Chemical reactions slow in cold weather, so the paint may not cure at all, if it's too cool.

Adding a clear coat, will further trap the solvents, and make it take even longer to cure. So, if hardness is your goal I would not do that.

 

[Aquamoose]

Unless you’re using the tractor for show, skip the clear coat.

Whenever I paint metal, I always deburr, sand smooth, clean, then heat up the parts (not too hot to touch) before priming & painting.

 

[bambam31]

I used spray on truck bed liner on the expanded metal on my ATV basket. It has been over 5 years without any chipping and no rusting. When I put expanded metal on my tractor brush guard it will be painted with the spray on bed liner. It takes longer to apply but it is worth it IMO.

 

[Cavjock22]

Rustoleum, is industrial enamel.

Industrial enamel is the cheapest paint out there. Therefore, it is the lowest quality product you can use.

That being said, it can produce acceptable results, if used properly.

The biggest problem with industrial enamel is, it will not achieve any degree of hardness, until all the solvents evaporate out of it. Once it's cured, it can hold up fairly well, with the proper prep, and undercoats, (primers).

Since it's cheap paint, the solvents are of poor quality. So, they don't evaporate quickly.

If the paint is applied in heavy coats, the solvents get trapped inside, and that slows the curing process. Those solvents evaporate better, if the paint is applied in lighter coats, and allowed to flash, (dry), the recommend time between coats. Applying too many coats, will also slow the curing process.

Baking the item at 150F, (for about 8 hours), or simply putting it out in the sun on hot days will drive the solvents out, and help you get a full cure faster. It can still take months for all the solvents to come out, in warmer temperatures. You could also force dry it with a heater. Again, try for a metal temp of 150F. Keep an eye on it, get it too hot, and you will damage the paint.

Chemical reactions slow in cold weather, so the paint may not cure at all, if it's too cool.

Adding a clear coat, will further trap the solvents, and make it take even longer to cure. So, if hardness is your goal I would not do that.

Very good info.. Thanks