Need quality trailer wiring kit.

[Comancheria]

I’ve bought aftermarket LED lights for a couple Of my small general purpose/landscape trailers.
The lights work fine but the freaking wires are so thin inside the insulation and the insulation gets brittle very fast , the wires corrode quickly and I lose function of my lights.
I got a new kit from the auto parts store and installed them.
Same issue not too long after.

Is there a good quality kit out there that actually works, not made in China?

 

[groundcover]

Had great luck ordering from ETrailer

etrailer.com

www.etrailer.com

 

[Comancheria]

^^^^.Thank you.
I’ll check it out.

 

[ArlyA]

Ya, I found the same thing. Heavier trailer wire is your freind.

 

[Rockbadchild]

​

It doesn't exist I wish it did ... what I found the best way for it to be effecting is doing a good job with wire placement, cover (split tubing for wire or even rigid tubing) and anchoring ... or simply buy the lights and buy heavier gauge wire and wire it yourself but the things that I mentioned above still apply.

 

[Comancheria]

If I could find a do it yourself 4 pin connector that was quality I’d love to just make my own with automotive heavy gauge wires.
I may look into that as well.

 

[woody]

I run across some 5 conductor 14 gauge wire that was used in a plant construction and used that on my 16 foot utility trailer it's been several years now with no problems.

 

[Comancheria]

Something like this may be an option.
I’m not a fan of the pinch blade connections but it may be doable.
Yeah I always use corrugated wire conduit and good straps/routing.
Grounds can become an issue with weather.
There’s always a length of wire that’s exposed or on a bend and those cheap wires will let you know they dont like it once the seemingly biodegradable insulation wears down and the piddly stranded wires corrode.

 

[Comancheria]

I run across some 5 conductor 14 gauge wire that was used in a plant construction and used that on my 16 foot utility trailer it's been several years now with no problems.

I bought some rolls of automotive wire at Home Depot that has worked well for me in several classic car wiring jobs and mobile mechanic repairs.
Very good stuff.

 

[ArlyA]

I got a roll of this on Amazon ad loved it.​

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BEST CONNECTIONS 4 Way Trailer Wire (50 Feet) – Heavy Duty 14 Gauge 4 Conductor Insulated Cable – Durable, Weatherproof, Color-Coded 4 Way Trailer Wiring Extension for RV Trailer and Automotive ​

$49.85

 

[SARG]

Trailer wire sold today is usually the copper coated aluminum that corrodes off at the connections very fast. You have to specifically look for the solid copper stranded wire. Costs more but is worth the difference. ( I got the 18 ga. because I now use LEDs. )

Amazon.com

 

[scootr]

This is the cable I use > 14/5 SOOW Black Portable Power Cable 600V UL CSA
This stuff will last forever.

 

[2manyrocks]

If I could find a do it yourself 4 pin connector that was quality I’d love to just make my own with automotive heavy gauge wires.
I may look into that as well.

Buy one of these, but only use as many of the connectors as you need for your application.

Amazon.com

 

[ArlyA]

I

Buy one of these, but only use as many of the connectors as you need for your application.

Amazon.com

We had poor luck with that style and after for a couple of years of service, gave up on them.

 

[scootr]

I use the 7 pin plastic plug or plug adapter for older 4 or 6 pin trailers.

 

[2manyrocks]

I

We had poor luck with that style and after for a couple of years of service, gave up on them

I installed one of these connectors maybe 10 years ago. Then the sorry trailer wiring gave out because the wiring insulation doesn't hold up to UV and the wires themselves became brittle. Went to change the wiring back in July. The connector itself was fine, but the screw heads on the wire terminals had rusted. I think that they would have still been okay if I had coated them with dielectric grease when I first installed them.

Now the wiring that came on the trailer when it was made 30-40 years ago is still good, but the newer wiring on the harness did not hold up well to the weather.

The problem I've had with the flat plastic 4 way connectors is they get corroded or they don't mate well, etc.

So I like the ones I linked instead, especially if I'm going to be wiring with wire that doesn't have a connector preinstalled.

For me, I want to be able to change the wiring easily when it fails in the future. One thing that saved me time recently was I had made a diagram of which wires controlled which trailer lights and had kept it in the glove box.

 

[nyone]

I use the 7 pin plastic plug or plug adapter for older 4 or 6 pin trailers.

Me too. I typicaly use a 4-7wire bundle that's coated until it's under the frame.

I think UV really destroys the insulation on the cheap type of wireing.

 

[nisaacs]

You might consider something like this. Most quality trailers are using the custom wiring harness now.

fits 12'-14' channel utility trailers?.this is a modular harness used on Mexico built trailers

 

[orezok]

I have been wiring my trailers with this (HD or similar) for over 25 years and have never had a failure.

 

[LD1]

Not sure what you are asking about.

Four main parts to trailer wiring...
1. the wire
2. the truck connector
3. The connections/splices
4. The lights

Aside from light bulb replacement (not the case with LED) Most the issues are with either the truck connector or the connections/splices

Not much you can do about the wire size/quality of the leads coming off the LED lighting fixtures. Because most of them you HAVE yo use the 6" or so flying leads they give you, because the light itself is sealed. And I dont even think the more expensive high quality lights have heavy gauge wire or insulation.

So it all comes down to your splice. So whatever "wire" you choose to run the length of the trailer.....at some point you have splices. And you need your splices to be waterproof. Because even using heavier gauge wire they will eventually corrode and fail.

About the best I have found is Ny-trex butt connectors. They are a heat shrink butt-connector with like a glue/sealant in them. And they work well for repairs, or for new install of lights.

As for the wire....I like the stuff that looks like SO cord.....but made for trailers. Industrial SO cord is fine too.....but the wire colors are wrong for standard trailer wiring. Buying the stuff that e-trailer or several other retailers sell specific for trailers makes wiring east because it is color coded. Just note that the SAE standard (most equipment trailers) is different color coding that RV standard.

Just note that 6-strands is really all you need on a equipment trailer with brakes as most dont have reverse lights. So get 6/14 wire because 7-strand wire is pretty tight fit in some 7-way connectors and also more expensive.

I also dont like using the frame as a ground. If a light fixture has a ground wire....I want it spliced to a ground wire and not a ring terminal and bolted to the frame. Just my preference.

As to the 7-way connector.....you can get the plastic ones you assemble yourself, or you can use a sealed molded one....but at some point it still needs spliced to the trailer wiring. Again, you can either use nytrex connectors or a junction box with studs and ring-terminals on the ends of the wires. I have done it both ways and have had success both ways.

But the wire....you can literally use whatever wire you want......as long as its secure, not rubbing or getting pinched....it is rarely a problem. ITs the connection points. So focus on what you can control