need some help on making a ballast.

   / need some help on making a ballast. #1  

mowin

Silver Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
131
Location
upstate ny
Tractor
JD 3320
Ok so I've searched and got lots of ideas on making a rear ballast. I have a 55 gal drum, so thats what I'm using. My questions are, what did everyone use for the top link connection? Can I get something at Tractor Supply? I've noticed some have the top link connection on the top of the ballast while some have it comming out the side, so how far appart does the crossbar and toplink bracket need to be? Assuming crossbar should be placed so there's more weight below the crossbar than above?
 
   / need some help on making a ballast. #2  
Here is a simple design with out a third point.
 

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   / need some help on making a ballast.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Here is a simple design with out a third point.

I like that design, but don't think I'll get the weight I'm looking for. I want 600-800 lbs.
 
   / need some help on making a ballast. #4  
Setting it up so you don't need that third link is a great idea. Either way you go I would set it up so that it is quick hitch capable in case you decide to add one of those they make your life a lot easier. Only thing you would need to know then is if you want to set it up for standard attachments or for John Deere attachments if using a top link. If you don't use the top link I believe all the quick hitchs would be a standard width Per category. As far as what to use for the top link I think most guys just make metal brackets that stick out of the counterweight. Some flat bar with a hole drilled in it for your pin is all that would be required just make sure that it has enough coverage or an angle inside the concrete so it won't pull out.
 
   / need some help on making a ballast.
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Setting it up so you don't need that third link is a great idea. Either way you go I would set it up so that it is quick hitch capable in case you decide to add one of those they make your life a lot easier. Only thing you would need to know then is if you want to set it up for standard attachments or for John Deere attachments if using a top link. If you don't use the top link I believe all the quick hitchs would be a standard width Per category. As far as what to use for the top link I think most guys just make metal brackets that stick out of the counterweight. Some flat bar with a hole drilled in it for your pin is all that would be required just make sure that it has enough coverage or an angle inside the concrete so it won't pull out.

I'm going the top link route. Main reason if I lay the barrel on its side like a roller, I dont think ill get the weight I need as the width will be reduced to fit the TPH or QH. So I'm going to keep the barrel upright, and the top link would be needed to keep the barrel from swinging.
 
   / need some help on making a ballast. #6  
Some concerns ive found by trial and error is .first keep the bottom link pins somewhat high (slightly below level. Also the top link has to be considered to be in direct relation to the distances of another 3 point mpliment. If its lower or higher it will change the 'levelness ' of the barrel.
Also. On the the top link would be inside the barrel so to say so I used a piece of 4 inch pvc pipe as a form to make a trough for the top link to set inside of.This alwed a full barrel of cement and stones,
I'm going the top link route. Main reason if I lay the barrel on its side like a roller, I dont think ill get the weight I need as the width will be reduced to fit the TPH or QH. So I'm going to keep the barrel upright, and the top link would be needed to keep the barrel from swinging.
 
   / need some help on making a ballast. #7  
I made my previous rear ballast with a 55 gallon plastic drum. I made a frame inside the barrel out of rectangle tubing. Then welded on 3/8" flat steel and put a 1" solid bar through for the lower lift pins. The tubing comes out through the barrel where I welded on 2 pieces of flat and put a pin through for the top link. On top I added a loop to lift the barrel if I need to move it around. Distance between lower lift and top link is 18-19". Then I hand mixed 10-80lb. bags of redimix and shoveled it in the barrel. Total is 800 lb. redimix and about 50 lb. of steel.

Just a couple weeks ago I built another rear ballast out of an old safe I acquired. The safe weighs about 1200 lbs. I had tried to sell the safe on CL but didn't have any takers. I was going to sell it for scrap but decided to use it as a heavier weight.
I've attached pics of both. Send me a PM as to where you are in Upstate NY.
 

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   / need some help on making a ballast. #8  
Id say put a pipe in the drum, that a horizontal drawbar will slide into. That will make hooking up the weight to the tractor much easier. My top link came from a 3 point rotary tiller that wasnt worth fixing so I scrapped it.
 
   / need some help on making a ballast. #9  
I saw a barrel ballast here on TBN that the top line was made out of 2 pieces of angle iron. They were space far enough apart for the top link to go between - there were holes drilled in the angle iron to put the pin through the holes in the angle iron - top link - angle iron.

_|0|_ Crude pic but I've tried to show a piece of angle iron, then the top link, and then the second piece of angle iron (looking down from above).
 

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