Thanks. Look forward to getting some other replies. I do have another question to go along with this. I watched a video last night of a flail mower and it seemed to be able to cut the grass pretty low and do a great job on heavy brush. It seems safer and easier to operate than a rotary mower. What am I missing?
To try to address each point you have raised
1) quality of a brush cutter involves many many factors. Thickness of steel being 1 measure, but all steel is not equal either, so that you can have a thinner high quality steel that will dent and deteriorate slower than some thicker steels. This will typically be included in their spec sheets if higher quality steel is used. If the steel only spec is a thickness (ga or fraction of inches) it is probably not a higher quality. This matters in how you use it.
The gearbox will be rated in several ways. One is hp rating. Do not buy one where your tractor hp is at the top of its rating range. Then you will have a rating as to what they will cut (2” material) check out this rating closely. Know how you plan to use the cutter and look for one that exceeds those conditions. These can throw objects with great force, if buildings where windows, siding or other parts could be damaged, be sure the mower has heavy, closely spaced chains in place. Some have these ‘deflectors’ front and rear (usually these are higher quality units). Assuming you are looking at known brands, price is an indicator or the quality. Some brands have a lower quality unit—steel grade, steel thickness, material it will cut and others conditions will be lowered. That does not make them bad but may make them inappropriate for some uses. (Example, horses prefer to eat shorter grasses, but your pasture may not have trees growing in it and you may have it clear of rocks and other objects—a lowered ability cutter may meet those needs saving funds)
Now let me jump to fail mowers. They are a different approach. They turn more like a tiller than a traditional mower, as such, they are less likely to throw objects. The same unit can be set up (some work involved) to act as a finish mower or a brush mower. They use knifes and hammers for this difference of cut. Again this is an involved process and not one you will want to do on a frequent basis. Just as some folks mow yards with brush cutters, you may find the cut acceptable with the hammers for your yard (most don’t however). Many of the above comments apply as they share common things (steel, gearboxes, and others)
The biggie for most people is cost.
Grapple, I have never pursued hard the purchase. My bucket is pin on and no 3rd function hydraulics. I would love to have one—maybe one day!
But lots of the above applies—big one is steel quality. Other considerations—weight, every pound of weight of the grapple is a pound of material you can not lift (this really goes to quality and strength of the steel).
Lids, I have never heard anyone complain about a 2 lid grapple function, but lots of folks wishing their single lid was a 2 lid due to material not being consistent on both sides.
Style of grapple—try to determine your plan usage and get the style that best matches that.
Hydraulics—is a diverter valve 3rd function something you can function with or do you want a 3rd valve to function independent of the other loader functions (usually curl/dump on a diverter are affected). Do you want an independent valve to function with a 3rd lever, or a flip switch (usually includes a electrically switched valve using solenoids).
In short lots of research for you prior to purchase of any single item. An informed shopper/buyer is one who while he may spend more initially, invest that money better long term. I will always content that buying 1 implement that meets your needs and baring the change of needs, serves one well for 10-15-20 years (not unheard of for home owner use) instead of buying an implement that in 5 years needs to be replaced.
