Need someone to walk me threw tearing down a model 2007 Long Disc Mower

[Crowbar2]

Please let me know step by step.






Thanks

 

[BTDT]

First of all, welcome to TBN. If it's a 2007 model, is it still under warranty? What's the rest of the story here, what exactly is broke?

 

[RickB]

Step one: Buy the proper repair manual.
Step two: Read the appropriate sections fully before picking up a wrench.
Step three: Refer to the proper sections as you proceed with the repair.

 

[Crowbar2]

Thanks for the welcome BTDT. The disc mower is 8 to 9 years old but the model # is 2007, I need to take the bearings out of the hubs. It looks pretty easy but we have no manual because it was bought at an auction and was hoping someone could give us step by step instructions.



Thanks,
Crowbar2

 

[RickB]

The chances of more than a handful of folks that frequent these boards owning a Long model 2007 disc mower is pretty slim. The chance of one of those owners actually having cutterbed repair experience is miniscule. Buying a machine at auction does not prevent one from obtaining service information from the manufacturer or other sources that may exist in order to make efficient repairs without causing unnecessary difficulties. Typically the bearings are held in the housings by internal snaprings. Additionally the hub/shaft/gear is retained in the bearings by external snapring(s). It would be more or less normal to require an hydraulic press to disassemble and reassemble these components. Care must be used when pressing bearings so as not to improperly load the opposite race from that which needs to be pressed. When I suggested a repair manual I was not trying to be snotty or flip; it just makes sense to me to have the correct info at hand.

 

[Crowbar2]

Thanks RickB for you info, I will check into getting the repair manual.

 

[mark mckinzie]

do not break the mower board apart. Instead-mark location of disc, remove disc--then the 4 nuts holding the bearing housing (drain fluids first-I should've mentioned) the bearing and gear assembly will not lift out of the top plate of mower board housing--or whatever it is called. Take a die grinder and grind about a 1/16 of inch off all around the opening once you have pulled the bearing housing off. I did this with 2 prybars on either side applying equal pressure while having someone tap the shaft with a brass punch. Once the housing is removed you can grind just enough off the opening to lift the shaft and gear out. I used a magnet and rags to remove the cuttings. Before you lift it out pay attention to where the timing mark on the gear--is--or mark a tooth on the drive gear with 2 teeth on the idler to ensure you go back in the same position--this is where I messed up evidently and cannot find a manual or anyone that really knows how to tell me to get my discs back in proper timing sequence. I know this--I like my mower--but finding a long dealer or anyone who knows about them in this state has been futile. Am having the same luck finding a service manual. I do believe that grinding the opening beats **** out of breaking the entire cutter board apart--a lot of bolts and nuts which will have worn and rounded edges--the bearing replacement you'll see is easy as the housing has a chamfer much like a wheel bearing--a no brainer and it will save tremendous time and money--I should've just went a little slower and paid more attention. Look it over and see what you think before you start -- let me know how you do.

 

[Renze]

As a rule of thumb regarding both disk mowers and power harrows (both have several gears and seals in a long gearcase) :

-If a seal or a bearing goes, either scrap it directly, or if it is cheap and easy to fix, fix it and sell it off. Usually when one goes, the others are in poor condition too and are likely to pop. Mostly these failures are due to torsion or bending of the gearcase, which misaligns ALL of the gears..

This is the rule of thumb among contractors. I admit that i think they're biased, but where smoke is, is fire. Personally I wouldnt start on mower bearings unless the problem didnt exist when i got it, so i'd knew when, and why, it arose. I dont know your situation, but over here in europe you can get a good drum or disk mower of 1,80 or 2 meter width so cheap (because they are too small for large farms and too big for hobbyists) that it isnt worth fixing them. the small 1,35 and 1,65 mowers are very expensive because of their popularity among hobby farmers with MF 35 and Fordson Dexta's.

 

[toycruiser]

call 1-252-823-4151 ask to speak to mary jo in parts.she should help you with a dealer or where to get parst in your area. this is in nc.