Need to build drain around hay shed, looking for input

[BeezFun]

I'd build up the ground around the building so you have natural drainage. Put landscape timbers or retaining wall blocks as close to the building as you can get them but leave about 6" for air circulation. Then build up dirt against it and slope away from the building. You can build it up a foot or two if you have to, then water will move away on it's own and ground won't saturate. I did this with an old house I owned that was in a low spot, planted shrubs and flowers along top of the new grade and it didn't look too bad. Hopefully you have enough overhang that the roof isn't draining against the building. You might have to add gutters in any case if this is happening, that could be why the ground is saturating.
I agree with others who say french drains are temporary solutions at best.

 

[Travelover]

I put in a french drain using a trencher and it works like crazy. I wrapped the pipe with with landscape cloth and used crushed gravel above and below the perforated pipe laid with holes down. If you place the drain strategically, you may not even need to completely encircle the building. I also included a ground level clean out, so I can flush the perforated pipe or snake it if ever needed. I'd use a day light opening if possible, vs a dry well.

 

[DJ54]

I put in the type of drains you mention 20+ years ago, and they still work fine. Maybe it's the type soil it's installed in. At the other farm it's a shaley clay, and in the wet season it percs out of tiny passages through the soil. Kind of reminds you of tunnels left from earthworms. I really first noticed it when digging post holes by hand, in early spring. While semi-dry on top, down 12"-24" water would literally be running out, into the hole.

Some of my ditches were hand dug, and others done with a trencher, or backhoe. No matter how you do it, the main thing is to keep a nice flat bottom, with no dips. That just makes a collection point, unless it would happen to silt in, on grade with the rest of the ditch.

Keeping the fall at 2%, if possible helps wash sediment out when using perforated pipe. ( Handy little piece of info I learned from our engineer's at work) It's not that hard to do with just a simple lock level, some grade stakes, & string to measure down from. And under a driveway, or somewhere where heavier than a lawn mower would run over it, the smooth bore 4" pipe perforated pipe is worth the money. It normally comes in 20' sticks. It just doesn't bend real sharp on corners.

I used #8, or pea gravel in the trench, and depth depended on what water I was trying to catch, whether ground water, or surface. On a couple, regular filter fabric was used when it was available. The last ones I put in 4 years ago, I used the better grade landscape fabric. I got flamed on this one in another thread a couple years ago, but heck, back before filter fabric was introduced, we used straw to keep sediment from going into this type of drain years ago at work, and they still work great. Granted, there was 2'+ of dirt cover over the drains, but it kept the sediment out. As long as the sun, doesn't get to it, it will last for years.

And on the outlet, I'd say make a swale ditch to carry the water away. And put a varmint guard on the end to keep the critters out, and keep the end of the pipe clean, for water to get away. I know years back, some pipe was made from soy based materials, and varmints just loved to chew holes in it..!!

The only maintenance to them would be at the outlet. Letting it silt in/cover over will trap the, if any sediment that would happen to get in the drain, and plug the pipe.

 

[mud23609]

A zero tail swing mini ex will make quick work of that drain as well. Pivot the boom and you can dig right along the outside edge of your tracks.

 

[grsthegreat]

the thing is, he said he has flat ground so simply making it flow around the building wont help much. What i did on mine was to dig a pit 8' wide x 8' wide x 6' deep and fill it with 4" clean rock. Placed a fabric layer on top and places a round 36" steel grate on a concrete ground ring so that the grate sits aprox 2" above ground level. As the water puddles, only the cleaner water flows into the drain system. Most sediments are left behind. The one in my basement steps is 16 years old, still flows 100% . The one out by the barn was done slightly differently as i didnt install the grate due to the horses being out there. This one still works, but the water has to travel thru 2" of sand before hitting the rocks. Works great in summer...not at all in winter. So im going to have to install the grate soon. Oh well, i tried

 

[corl]

I had a water problem around my equipment shed. It was easily solved by using my middle buster behind the tractor and digging a ditch. Took all of about 15 minutes and the rain just cleaned out the ditch. If it fills up again it will only take 10 minutes next time. Simple cheap and quick and effective. Over time it just becomes a sort of swale and looks fine, can even mow across it.

 

[MacLawn]

I've got a similar issue, and, it's going to be a ditch. I'm not a fan of French drains either. Small swale sloping away will do the trick.

 

[Danno1]

You have to tile the water away from the building. I have tried French Drains. French Drains are a waste of time and money.

What is the difference between French Drain and Drain Tile?



.

 

[blueriver]

Hay shed .. Is it dirt floor or concrete? If dirt can you haul in gravel and raise the floor level .. Hay sheds are usually pretty high and u may not miss a few inches. If it's concrete I suggest about six to eight foot out use a one bottom plow to cut a ditch then use a blade on your tractor to V that plowed furrow out thus creating a nice ditch .. Take it to any point your comfortable with to drain... Grass will grow and you can simply mow it ... Nothing to maintain.

 

[RodSerling]

I didn't see it mentioned so forgive me if this was already said but the best way to fix your drainage problem is with a swale. Pitch the water away from the building and towards your low point. A swale will handle most every problem and is inexpensive (Grass seed, fertilizer,Top soil if needed). You can still utilize a French drain if you want though I am not a fan except for interior applications. They tend to choke with fines quickly or leaves grow over them of they crush, etc,etc. I've finish graded 1000's of houses and site and I've done golf courses.
I just did a drastic one at my new house where the ground was flying into the house which would flood the basement. The previous own, a so called Excavator, put a French drain in to try and fix it, it didn't work. I had to cut it down 3' and feather back in to the slope. I used a mini excavator with 60" blade.