Need to buy a trailer for occasional use

[JIGBUILDER]

Be sure and get braking on both axles. A few manufactures out there have only one axle braking on their cheaper line of trailers..

I had a 7k tandam axle trailer with a 40 hp tractor. Well I upgradeed to a 50 hp tractor which mashed the trailers fenders almost on top of the tires. Bought a 10k trailer and took a trip to the feed mill scales with the tractor/FEL/6' mower. The trailers gross was 9480 lbs. Sometimes actual weights can be surprising.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I would not want to pull a tractor that weighs more than 3500lb on a 7000lb trailer. Too close to the max.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would not want to pull a tractor that weighs more than 3500lb on a 7000lb trailer. Too close to the max.

Why not? Would you order a 16oz beer and only drink 10oz? Or order a large pizza and only eat 2/3rds of it?


I have 2 7,000# trailers. Well one is actually rated at 7,500# but has 2 3,500# axles.

My 7,000# car hauler weighs about 1,300# leaving me with 5,700# payload. It has well over 10,000 miles pulling everything. My 5,200# tractor has been on it 1/2 the time. The other has been building materials, my dad and uncles Corvettes, Lincoln Aviator, Trail Blazzer, GMC 1500, Dodge Ram, and about 20 cars ranging from a Hyundai to a Impala. Never had a issue other than a bad set of Goodyear tires that I lost 3 of in 100 miles pulling a 3,000# Corvette. (Junk Tires)

My 7,500# boat trailer weighs 1,490# empty. It hauls my 23' boat that weighs 5,500# with fuel every weekend 150 miles from April to October and a few 1,000 mile trips each summer to vacation spots.

Chris

 

[slowzuki]

People tow full size pickups on 7000 lb car haulers all the time. If you study the options, you can get the weight down. Get both axles with brakes. A half ton or the durango should be more than adequate if you keep the speeds reasonable and it isn't mountainous in your area.

Half the people on the web will tell you to use an F550 and gooseneck tandem dually to move the load when really you would be fine if you got the proper tires (not used ones), WD hitch, 2 axles braked and common sense.

 

[Tenn_Blue]

In a perfect world, I think we could tow much more than the manufacturer's GVW ratings, but it's not a perfect world. I've had drivers pull out in front of me, had to make panic stops, driven on ice, had tires blow out, driven on bad roads, etc. You can't always control what happens around you. In my opinion, thats plenty of reason to have a healthy safety margin with your tow platform.

Also, I don't think a lot of people understand the dynamics of a movable load on a trailer and how that can affect the handling of your vehicle. It's scary sometimes to see how poorly some non-commercial loads are secured going down the road! When I started hauling heavier stuff (not for profit), I spent some time talking to professional drivers, and the local commercial compliance enforcement officer (DOT Police), as well as learning what is required by DOT to secure a load, and I always try and follow those guidlines.

Finally there is the liabiity issue. If you exceed your gross vehicle weight ratings and combined ratings, you expose yourself to litigation if you are involved in a traffic crash. It may be a "safe" loading, but the attorneys will eat you for lunch - including your own insurance company trying to get out of paying! Or worse, would hate to think that I caused a bad injury/death because I was running heavy.....

Just my opinion........

 

[Cat_Driver]

Trailer weigh and trucks, this is a debate that will never be settled. Yes I have seen trucks pull twice the weight they are allowed. Yes manufacturers derate all their vehicles. Yes you could load more than is designed on most trailers - BUT and that's a big BUT you always have the law and insurance companies to deal with. If you tow or pull one pond more than everything specs out and you get in an accident it will be your fault even if the other guy plowed into you.

Insurance companies love not to pay and blame someone else so my advice keep it all legal, it's just so much easier that way.

 

[firefighter jim]

Why not? Would you order a 16oz beer and only drink 10oz? Or order a large pizza and only eat 2/3rds of it?


I have 2 7,000# trailers. Well one is actually rated at 7,500# but has 2 3,500# axles.

My 7,000# car hauler weighs about 1,300# leaving me with 5,700# payload. It has well over 10,000 miles pulling everything. My 5,200# tractor has been on it 1/2 the time. The other has been building materials, my dad and uncles Corvettes, Lincoln Aviator, Trail Blazzer, GMC 1500, Dodge Ram, and about 20 cars ranging from a Hyundai to a Impala. Never had a issue other than a bad set of Goodyear tires that I lost 3 of in 100 miles pulling a 3,000# Corvette. (Junk Tires)

My 7,500# boat trailer weighs 1,490# empty. It hauls my 23' boat that weighs 5,500# with fuel every weekend 150 miles from April to October and a few 1,000 mile trips each summer to vacation spots.

Chris

That's a good one. I agree..........

 

[slowzuki]

It depends, the manufacturers simplify their ratings and don't tell you what is limiting the tow rating.
-some its the tongue weight, SUV's generally don't have enough extra capacity to handle the tongue weight of a large trailer. Sometimes its just because they put P tires on for a nice ride.
-some its the rear axle weight rating,
-some its the gradability (hp and gearing to start on a hill)
-some its the braking

As an example, all Ford Superduties in SRW have 10.5 axles with a 9000 lb max weight rating. Depending on the tire and rim options, the rear gross weight ratings are all over the place, none getting up to the axle rating.

In 2005, they bumped the brake size up which made a big difference in stopping, but the move to a 5 speed auto tranny and stronger 17" rims is what upped the tow ratings. The extra gear let them meet the hill start and speeds, the rims got them closer to the axle weight rating.